Like the title says, Work equips are 3 piece wheels but are the pieces welded together? I have heard they are and ive also heard they are kinda glued.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8chu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the title says, Work equips are 3 piece wheels but are the pieces welded together? I have heard they are and ive also heard they are kinda glued.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're not welded, they're sealed with high pressure sealant.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8chu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the title says, Work equips are 3 piece wheels but are the pieces welded together? I have heard they are and i've also heard they are kinda glued.</TD></TR></TABLE> sometimes they are..but i don have much experiance w/ those..

i had old mk series ssr wheels that were welded...only the bolts came off and not the face..and some older work VS style wheels were welded in the same way..

 

ive looked at the back before and you can see a gap where the pieces come together. Whats the best way to take these apart if they are sealed?

 

Unless you want satan's fury to come up upon you then you might want to reconsider taking 3 piece wheels apart.

I recently took one of my 3 piece wheel's bolts out, and pryed the lip off to make painting the spokes easier - it took two tries to get the damn thing to seal correctly, and I work at a shop with access to grinders/wire brush wheels, tire mounting/balancing equipment, torque wrenches, different selants, etc. and it was still a huge PITA.

WHY DO YOU WANT TO TAKE THEM APART?

 

B18C5-EH2.....i looked at ur post...i feel for u....

are the SSR MKllR welded?

 

ease of polishing/repairing the lips would be my reason. It looks like B18c5 just used hondabond to reseal them. I have access to wire wheels as well. Other than taking all the bolts out/reinstalling them, whats so hard about it? ps: i only have 16 bolts per wheel

 

And assuming that all this sealant does is hold air in, why couldn't you use some 3M Window weld? Its basically a urethane sealant that would probably hold air better than hondabond

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8chu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And assuming that all this sealant does is hold air in, why couldn't you use some 3M Window weld? Its basically a urethane sealant that would probably hold air better than hondabond</TD></TR></TABLE>

Trust me polyuretane based sealants suck *** for sealing wheels. I tried some first and it stuck great to itself but didn't bond to the metal/aluminum on the wheels/lip. You want something that will really STICK to the metal, which Hondabond is perfect for.

Basically just remember to prep the surfaces well, but don't stay on one area too long with the wire wheel because you don't want to actually remove any material/metal from any wheel surface. Then just be sure to torue every bolt down evenly. You might want to call a Work dealer to see what their recommended torque settings are for their hardware/bolts.

I went with 22 ft-lbs. based on a few Volk dealers' specs for some 3-piece Volks with the same style bolts since nobody had any clue for my 1988ish Black Racing BR-Rs.

 

I have the same exact problem! I have ssr 3 piece wheels and took all 30+ bolts out and wheels seem to be pretty firm! I've tried numerous things to try to get the face of the rims and nothing seems to work! I called a wheel repair shop and they stated that if the wheels are 3 piece and they don't come off it's because they have silicone! He told me I would have to heat the wheels where they are glued with the sealant with a blow torch and the face would come out! Anyone else?

 

I would try using an exacto knife or possibly thicker razore-blade type knife to cut into the silicon bead, and then pry the sections apart.

You just have to be way careful when prying sections apart, because if you bend the lip or gouge the sealing area you are proper fuucked.