Tried searching, found nothing.
I'm doing the auto-manual swap and a gsr swap. When I put my clutch pedal in I didnt take the sensor from my parts car that I took all my stuff from. How would I bypass this safety switch so that I can start my car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98CivB18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tried searching, found nothing.
I'm doing the auto-manual swap and a gsr swap. When I put my clutch pedal in I didnt take the sensor from my parts car that I took all my stuff from. How would I bypass this safety switch so that I can start my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just jump the two wires.

The switch is simply a 2 wire plug and when the lever on the clutch is pushed down, it pushes the button in and completes the circuit.

As long as the wires are connected together there is no need for the switch.

 

Not to mention your by passing perhaps the most annoying issue ever to grace a Honda!

 

k so re-did the wiring on my clutch safety switch. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a click and it doesnt turn over. The click is comming from the fuse panel under the hood. My ignition fuse isnt blown. Whats going on?

 

This is a continuance of your other thread here... not sure why you created a new thread. But anyway.

I'm still not sure what you mean by redoing the clutch safety switch wiring. There's nothing to do really. It's just a matter of soldering the ends of 3 wires together in your lower console area after you cut the harness off the wiring going to your auto shifter. The thick black and thick white wires provide a straight-through from the ignition switch to the starter. Then the third is a skinny blue (I think it's blue) that is responsible for grounding the solenoid that would otherwise keep your key stuck in the ignition, thinking it's not in Park.

After that, all the other wiring is done under your hood to ground everything. You should have the starter grounded to the chassis, the valve cover grounded to the chassis, and the ECU wire harness grounded on the thermostat housing. That's it.

 

Does anyone have a picture of these wires...we looked for hours and CANNOT find the 2 wires to bypass the clutch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00CivicGirl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone have a picture of these wires...we looked for hours and CANNOT find the 2 wires to bypass the clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you're trying to simply bypass the clutch safety switch? If so then that's easy.

At the top of the clutch pedal assembly you will see a cylindrical switch that the pedal engages and disengages when pressed and depressed. There are two wires going into it and bypassing the switch is as easy as shorting those two wires together. May I ask why though?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you're trying to simply bypass the clutch safety switch? If so then that's easy.

At the top of the clutch pedal assembly you will see a cylindrical switch that the pedal engages and disengages when pressed and depressed. There are two wires going into it and bypassing the switch is as easy as shorting those two wires together. May I ask why though?</TD></TR></TABLE> tying those two wires together will do absolutly nothing. the two wires you need to tie together are under your center console. the harness that was pluged into your auto shifter assymbly is where you want to look. the two thickest wires on that plug are the one you want to tie together. dont hold me to it but i think its blk/wht and blk/red, just look for the two thickest on the harness and tie together

 

Judging by the question (bypassing the clutch), I assumed that it's not an auto-manual conversion but instead a question as to how to bypass the safety switch.

If you look above I said almost the same thing you just did to another user. btw, It's the two thickest wires and the blk/blu one for the key solenoid.

 

There's two plugs on the clutch. You need to connect to two wires together off the yellow plug and not the grey one.

EDIT: NM your doing a auto-man conversion. Wiring for the nuetral swith will be under the center console, consult the post above mine that guy is right.

 

[QUOTE=

EDIT: NM your doing a auto-man conversion. Wiring for the nuetral swith will be under the center console, consult the post above mine that guy is right.[/QUOTE] just fixin to point that out , auto to manual. its under the console

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you're trying to simply bypass the clutch safety switch? If so then that's easy.

At the top of the clutch pedal assembly you will see a cylindrical switch that the pedal engages and disengages when pressed and depressed. There are two wires going into it and bypassing the switch is as easy as shorting those two wires together. May I ask why though?</TD></TR></TABLE>

we did a 5spd swap and it cant start with out bypassing the clutch. the dash harness is automatic so we do not have those wires there to plug into the sensors. that help?

 

nm...problem solved

 

I'm attempting the same swap soon(auto to manual AND D16 to B18) and I just wanted some clarification on a few things:

1. I dont need to swap over the clutch sensor switch from the manual car because the auto harness in my car doesn't even have a plug or even a way to to connect the switch? Right?

2. Bascially, soldering the 3 wires from the autoshifter harness will allow me to start the car with the manual ECU. And no other connections are needed, Right?

3. If I wanted to have the clutch sensor switch installed in the car(for OEM look and safety issues), then I would only need to splice this switch between the thick black wires(the ignition wire) from the autoshifter harness and install it in the OEM location. Correct?

4. Does the blue wire(that goes to the solenoid that would otherwise keep your key stuck in the ignition) exist in the dash wiring harness in a manual car? And if does, where is it located?

 

we havent had an issue with the key cant come out unless in parked. all we did was take the 2 thick black wires to the shifter and solder them together and it cranked right up without the clutch pedel being pressed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_Midori &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm attempting the same swap soon(auto to manual AND D16 to B18) and I just wanted some clarification on a few things:

1. I dont need to swap over the clutch sensor switch from the manual car because the auto harness in my car doesn't even have a plug or even a way to to connect the switch? Right?

2. Bascially, soldering the 3 wires from the autoshifter harness will allow me to start the car with the manual ECU. And no other connections are needed, Right?

3. If I wanted to have the clutch sensor switch installed in the car(for OEM look and safety issues), then I would only need to splice this switch between the thick black wires(the ignition wire) from the autoshifter harness and install it in the OEM location. Correct?

4. Does the blue wire(that goes to the solenoid that would otherwise keep your key stuck in the ignition) exist in the dash wiring harness in a manual car? And if does, where is it located?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Correct. If you bring over the switch and want to use it, you'll also have to pull over the associated relay and necessary wiring that goes with it. The switch isn't necessary.

2. Correct. No other connections needed.

3. No. See (1.) ^^ You need the relay; otherwise turning the key without pushing the clutch switch in will send a turn of current in the wrong direction and you will pop your 40A ignition fuse.

4. I don't think so. With a standard transmission, nothing is ever preventing you from turning your key to OFF and pulling it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00CivicGirl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we havent had an issue with the key cant come out unless in parked. all we did was take the 2 thick black wires to the shifter and solder them together and it cranked right up without the clutch pedel being pressed</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, did you remove the assembly when the car was out of Park? I know when I did mine that I couldn't pull the key out after turning it unless I unplugged the battery or grounded the blue wire first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hmm, did you remove the assembly when the car was out of Park? I know when I did mine that I couldn't pull the key out after turning it unless I unplugged the battery or grounded the blue wire first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not sure. I would think it would have been in park when we put it on jack stands and all of that unless someone shifted it into neutral to remove it. I think we just did something and not remember since it was quite a few of us working on it.

All we did was connect the 2 black fat wires and that starts the car now. We havent had an issue with the key at all.

 

Just for my own edification, what year and model Honda is this? I see DA in your sig, but wanted to make sure.

 

Its a 90 LS. We swapped it to 5spd and put a newer ls motor in and did an obd0 - obd1 conversion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Correct. If you bring over the switch and want to use it, you'll also have to pull over the associated relay and necessary wiring that goes with it. The switch isn't necessary.

2. Correct. No other connections needed.

3. No. See (1.) ^^ You need the relay; otherwise turning the key without pushing the clutch switch in will send a turn of current in the wrong direction and you will pop your 40A ignition fuse.

4. I don't think so. With a standard transmission, nothing is ever preventing you from turning your key to OFF and pulling it out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks! But just out of curiosity, the thick black wire and the thin blue wire go to the starter right? So when the starter is grounded to the chasis, then those 3 wires are also grounded at that point, right? Thanks again!

 

Think of it like this...

[hot wire] [ignition switch] [cold wire] [auto shifter switch] [cold wire] [starter]

When you turn your key, the ignition switch is shorting the hot wire and the first cold wire. That cold wire would then technically be hot. If your car is in Park, the shifter switch would then allow that newly hot wire to short with the next cold wire which will then create a potential over the starter switch, thereby activating the starter. That's why you can't crank an auto unless it's in P.

Now, for the manual swap, you're getting rid of the shifter switch so turning your key would short the hot wire directly to the starter switch, hence turning the engine over. The blue wire is simply a thin wire that is connected to a solenoid in the ignition lock for your key. For an auto, it's undesirable to pull your key out unless you're in Park since you wouldn't want to crank the engine over while in a gear when you put it back in. For a standard trans, it doesn't matter because of the clutch safety switch and the necessity to start the car with the clutch in.

The key lock solenoid works because a voltage potential is met that allows the solenoid to engage, thereby disallowing your key from being removed. By wiring that blue lead to the same wires, you're never allowing the solenoid to engage because it's then brought to a potential close to 0. It's possible to also wire it to a chassis ground, but I wouldn't recommend that due to what's called a floating ground, i.e. there may still be enough of a potential on the chassis to engage the solenoid. You will then be left saying, wtf, I can't get my key out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think of it like this...

[hot wire] [ignition switch] [cold wire] [auto shifter switch] [cold wire] [starter]

When you turn your key, the ignition switch is shorting the hot wire and the first cold wire. That cold wire would then technically be hot. If your car is in Park, the shifter switch would then allow that newly hot wire to short with the next cold wire which will then create a potential over the starter switch, thereby activating the starter. That's why you can't crank an auto unless it's in P.

Now, for the manual swap, you're getting rid of the shifter switch so turning your key would short the hot wire directly to the starter switch, hence turning the engine over. The blue wire is simply a thin wire that is connected to a solenoid in the ignition lock for your key. For an auto, it's undesirable to pull your key out unless you're in Park since you wouldn't want to crank the engine over while in a gear when you put it back in. For a standard trans, it doesn't matter because of the clutch safety switch and the necessity to start the car with the clutch in.

The key lock solenoid works because a voltage potential is met that allows the solenoid to engage, thereby disallowing your key from being removed. By wiring that blue lead to the same wires, you're never allowing the solenoid to engage because it's then brought to a potential close to 0. It's possible to also wire it to a chassis ground, but I wouldn't recommend that due to what's called a floating ground, i.e. there may still be enough of a potential on the chassis to engage the solenoid. You will then be left saying, wtf, I can't get my key out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks again! I love it when people are thorough with their explanations! Hey, why don't I just pay you to do my swap for me!

 

Hey, fly me out there and it'll be a piece of cake. I could use a vacation anyway.

 

does anybody know where these 2 black wires nd blue wire be at in a 2001 crv