I was reading the DIY on changing rotors and he said he got a puller from JC Whitney for $25 or $27 or something plus shipping. They list several pullers on their site and none of them look the same to me. Anyone know which one to get? Anyone have a link? Do any other stores sell this tool? Thanks.

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autop...uller

Is that the one or do I want something else? It's the only two arm puller I see but it says it's for the rear.

 

I know there's one on ebay right now, saw it last night.

 

Anyone know what size I need? I just basically don't have a clue what size I need to get.

 

I don't get the use of a puller to get the hub off? I mean what are you pushing on to get the "pull"? The axle? Can't cause that will just get pushed in.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1281812


In that DIY thread he used one.


How do you recommend I take the hub off? I've never done this before so looking for the easiest way and that method looks fairly easy.

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autop...uller

Here is another one. I'm thinking thats what I need but not positive. I'm getting ready to order something but want to make sure it's right. Do I need a slide hammer with this? What I was hoping to do is get one of the ones where you screw in the bolt and it pushes the hub off. Is that what this does or do I need a slide hammer? The first picture on the page with all of the pullers listed has a slide hammer on it but when you click on the item description it shows you that picture.

The one I saw on eBay was $150. It looked nice but for the price I'd hope so.

 

BUmp. Anyone know if this is the right one and what other tools I need for this thing to work?

 

I knew of the how-to you were referring to.

Heres the thing, to use a puller you need something to bolt onto and you need something to push on. You bolt it onto the wheel studs but you have nothing to push on. Even if the axle was still in there you would just push it out the back. So I fail to see how the use of one of those pullers works.

Don't use a slide hammer attached on it, trust me. I did this years ago, even after the four bolts on the back of the knuckle were removed my bearing was so rusted into the knuckle that I still pulled the hub right out of the bearing with a slide hammer. I thought it would pop the bearing free from the knuckle first but I was wrong.

Once the 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle are removed you can try a few things.
1) put 4 longer bolts back in and hit the heads to try and drive the bearing out of the knuckle. 2) hit the back of the rotor to try and loosen the bearing inside the knuckle so you can pull it out. 3) if all else fails you can remove the knuckle from the car and take it into a shop and have the hub/rotor/bearing assembly separated from the knuckle.

Be sure to clean and grease the bore where the bearing goes in the knuckle, that should help to prevent it from rusting badly and thus making the next service easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't get the use of a puller to get the hub off? I mean what are you pushing on to get the "pull"? The axle? Can't cause that will just get pushed in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is hard to imagine how it works too. I am looking on it and cant figure out what it does.

He did say though <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ramoneguru &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*Special note: I was a bit surprised this worked so perfectly. That's why I didn't take a picture when we first pulled off the hub unit.
This picture was taken after we put everything back together but, I think you get the idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I was thinking the bolt in the middle must hit the bolt that goes through the hub and push on it to pull the hub off. Is this not how it works?

I hope mine isnt too rusted as it was apart less than a year ago.

 

just pull the ******* knuckle off and press the bearing out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking the bolt in the middle must hit the bolt that goes through the hub and push on it to pull the hub off. Is this not how it works?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that "bolt" you are referring to would be the axle. since the other "bolts" would be wheel studs and those would be attached to the hub.

I don't see how pushing on the axle would do anything to push the hub/rotor/bearing assembly away from the knuckle. Once you remove the axle nut (which you have to do) and put the puller on there, I only see you pushing the axle back through the hub rather than pushing the assembly away from the knuckle.

 

After I got to thinking about it I realized thats what was going to happen. I feel stupid now. I'm thinking this may be more of a pain than I thought as I have no idea where to even start if I have to remove the knuckle. I'm looking for a right up on that now to be prepared. I'm hoping since it was apart 7 months ago it will all come apart again easily. I don't know why my rotors warped so fast this time but they are shaking badly. I'm just debating if I really want to attempt it myself or take it to a shop. I thought that writeup looked fairly easy as I don't think it did anything I couldn't do but now I'm not sure.

Is the best way to get the hub off to beat on the back of the rotor with a hammer? So is hooking a slide hammer to one of those pullers a no no for sure? Thanks guys.

 

if yours was apart within a year then it's probably not too bad.

I don't know how long it was done before I attempted mine but mine were rusted in there good.

I wouldn't use a slide hammer, will probably do more harm than good.

I know I have written out the steps to remove the knuckle in other threads. Maybe some searching will turn up one of those posts.

It's not a horrible thing to do yourself but it's best to be prepared for the worst to happen.

Also, to anyone who has a 90-97 Accord... I would seriously consider doing a rotor-over-hub conversion when it's time to do the brakes. It will cost some extra money but if you are planning to keep the car it may be a worthy investment. You don't have to upgrade the caliper either, you can do a setup with the stock calipers to save on money this time around. But it's something I would seriously consider.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also, to anyone who has a 90-97 Accord... I would seriously consider doing a rotor-over-hub conversion when it's time to do the brakes. It will cost some extra money but if you are planning to keep the car it may be a worthy investment. You don't have to upgrade the caliper either, you can do a setup with the stock calipers to save on money this time around. But it's something I would seriously consider.</TD></TR></TABLE>I didn't start reading about this until I had already ordered the Brembo rotors for an Accord. I really wouldn't mind doing this anyway but the local junk yards only had one of the hubs I would need and I don't want to pay dealer price for them. I think I'm just going to do the Accord rotors this time and maybe next time try and find the parts to do the conversion.

 

After beating the snot out of one side for an hour or so, I found the tip about the headbolts inserted from the back. A few hits with a hammer and it came out pretty easy. The other side was cake once I knew how it was supposed to come apart.

Still a pain in the *** design.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakeiscool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just pull the ******* knuckle off and press the bearing out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen, I spent hours trying to do it myself. If it ever needs to be done again I am pulling the knuckle and heading to the machine shop straight away. Just be prepared to replace the bearings as they might separate.