LS-T w/ greddy kit having problems..... help please~~~~
hey i have a 98 LS-T with greddy kit on it... just got done putting it in and went for a test drive.... the problem i have rite now is that when i first boost it it boost fine but after the boost when i slow down the bogs like crazy...... (also throws CEL: random misfire/ baro map input too high). so i threw some new spark plugs and gaped them at .028 to .030 range... i dc the battery and drove it again without CEL. i tried to boost again and same thing happens. its like to a point the car wont even move(has hard time before 2k rpm) if i come to a complete stop after boosting. any suggestion or anyone had the same problem??? im sure i wired the blue box correctly......
what management? im going to guess none and also suggest that you stop driving the car until you get the proper fuel and timing control.
i stated that i have the shitty blue box from the greddy kit..... i know it sucks and all but cant afford standalone at this moment
oh yea if i turn the car off and on it will be fine til i floor the car again....
Modified by xiLLtegRax at 1:52 PM 2/12/2008
Modified by xiLLtegRax at 1:52 PM 2/12/2008
what are you doing for the map sensor signal? it sounds like that. i dont remember if the "blue box" takes care of map signal or not.
Landon
Landon
You most likely did not install the emanage correctly. You should not get a MAP code. That would also cause the random misfires (but those could be caused by other things as well). Sounds like your ECU is seeing boost.
Check the wiring again and make sure you got the pinout of the ECU correct.
Check the wiring again and make sure you got the pinout of the ECU correct.
its not emange... but anyways blue box basically intercepts signal from your map sensor and it basically input something else to ecu....... but why would it bog after seeing the boost???? does it goto some kinda limp mode or something?
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Yes, you immediately go into limp mode if your car sees anything over about 1psi over atmospheric pressure. Check the voltage on the MAP input and output of the blue box, should be less voltage on the output.
Modified by thewrai6th at 4:53 PM 2/12/2008
Modified by thewrai6th at 4:53 PM 2/12/2008
just wondering.... does anyone know what color wire connects to what???
basically what color wire from blue box connects to the wire thats coming from the map sensor and to ecu..... thank you
basically what color wire from blue box connects to the wire thats coming from the map sensor and to ecu..... thank you
I'm not sure if the blue box pinout = the emanage pinout. And I don't see a diagram for the blue box on the greddy site.
You're just going to have to find a wiring diagram for the bluebox somewhere and match it up to whatever ecu you're running.
You're just going to have to find a wiring diagram for the bluebox somewhere and match it up to whatever ecu you're running.
Used to throw the same exact code with the blue box. there is nothing you can do about it. it would only really come on randomly. i never had any bog issues but it did make the car feel sluggish once the code came up. upgrade man, thats all i can advise.
does map sensor read different input in different gears??? because it seems like its fine when i boost in 1st and 2nd gear but from 3rd and on when i boost... i have a problem afterawards....
k... i think i can boost every gear to about .5 bar which is about 7 psi..... but after that i get a check engine light.... i think map is reading boost..... should i just get a missing link and would that solve the problem???
well I was on the dyno last weekend and my wastegate was messed up and we didnt know it and my car was hitting 16 lbs on stock map sensor with no CEL or anything it was crazy...but on the other hand my friend had a b16 on 12 lbs and his would do the same thing...he could cut it off and turn it back on and it would be fine...
Are you still getting both codes at the same time?
And, you can boost up to 7psi, but you get a code at 8psi?
Maybe the map cut/fuel tables on that POS blue box are setup for 7psi max. Are you even controling your timing at all? If not, you're gonna blow your engine up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbansi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i never had any bog issues but it did make the car feel sluggish once the code came up. upgrade man, thats all i can advise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good advice, a chipped ECU, Neptune or any real management would be much better. Even a newer eManage with fuel/ignition maps would be better and safer, but piggybacks suck in so many different ways IMO they are a waste of time.
And, you can boost up to 7psi, but you get a code at 8psi?
Maybe the map cut/fuel tables on that POS blue box are setup for 7psi max. Are you even controling your timing at all? If not, you're gonna blow your engine up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbansi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i never had any bog issues but it did make the car feel sluggish once the code came up. upgrade man, thats all i can advise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good advice, a chipped ECU, Neptune or any real management would be much better. Even a newer eManage with fuel/ignition maps would be better and safer, but piggybacks suck in so many different ways IMO they are a waste of time.
no i get a map sensor code after 2 or 3 start up without even boosting... i think its just map seeing boost..... and no i havent control the timing..... how should i change timing??? moving the distributor???? also what kind of missing link should i get???
Try getting a missing link. That should be the fix. If that doesn't fix the problem, then take it to a shop to get a real tune on it.
ok, first you should know that boost is effected by the gear you are in, you most likely will see more boost in 3,4,5 than you will in 1,2. you are most likely throwing those codes because your engine is seeing boost. as far as timing issues go with you not having a programable ecu, than yes i would retard your timing via the distributor at least 2-3 degrees just to be safe. also have you changed your spark plugs? the engine management that you are using is not by any means the best you could have, and to be honest i would steer away from that AS FAST AS POSSIBLE you can pick up a set of 440cc dsm injectors, and get your ecu socketed and have someone send you a basemap at the very least for your setup... now how much boost are you running right now? i would not run anymore than 6-7psi if any at all. i understand that you might not have money but then you shouldnt be letting your motor see boost until you do because it is just gonna cost you more money in the long run. hope this helps.
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