have an f22/h23 hybrid. most of you know it's almost a straight swap, especially electrically, only difference being no knock sensor on f22 block.

when i try to start it, all it does is make a rapid clicking sound. no cranking at all, just clicking. one thing i noticed was the speedo spiked a tiny little bit, only up to about 7 or 8 mph, but it did.

i went over all my connections a few times. but like i said before, its a straight swap. so wherever i unplugged something on the h23 block, i plugged it right back in where it belongs on the f22 block. all my grounds are where they should be, too.

any ideas?

 

dead battery. Use a multimeter and test the voltage of it.

 

this battery is brand new. the old one had been sitting a year maybe, i tried jump starting that one but all i got it to do was a really soft click.

new battery i just bought last night has me upgraded to a nice and healthy loud clicking

 

pull the starter off and turn the key to see if the starter arm extends and spins.

 

ok the starter is fine.

after i removed it, i remembered a connector on the driver side of the engine bay that i'd broken. replaced the wire i ripped out, and now it cranks just fine. put the starter back in, and all i get now is just cranking.

this IS the 1st time the motor is being started, but all i get is a crank, no kind of ignition from what i can tell.

 

ok so check and see if you are getting fuel and/or spark.

turn the engine over then remove the plugs. Smell the plugs for fuel.

ground the plug and crank the motor to check for spark.


BUT, first and foremost, you need to make sure you are getting oil pressure before you continue to turn the engine over.

 

i'm getting both spark and fuel. first thing i did before cranking, was remove plugs and ground them to motor, all are lighting up.

after a few cranks, i removed them, and there is definitely fuel in all four cylinders.

oil is topped off, any quick way to make sure i'm getting good pressure? other than with a gauge, obviously, because i don't have one at home.

 

other than getting an oil pressure test gauge....no.

is the timing dead on? any cel's?

 

no CEL's and yes timing should be good. I had a little problem with it that i posted up before, but i was extremely paranoid about having it dead on. i took pics and a little video of hand cranking it just to make sure, and it's perfect. i didn't feel like having a dead head over something simple.

at TDC i have the dizzy rotor pointing to cylinder 1, which is something i had to change a few days ago when i was double checking everything, because it was flipped. Now that i'm thinking about it, i guess i should go make sure that i flipped it because i needed to.

 

how about your grounds? check those, my 4th gen did something on the lines of what your describing and i wasnt grounded good enough. Just a thought good luck

 

found the vac line to my MAP sensor is broken. can that be the cause of a no start?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xxmastermindxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">found the vac line to my MAP sensor is broken. can that be the cause of a no start?

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yes. The map sensor is the MAIN sensor used for fueling and ignition.

 

so the plastic tube that the vacuum line is supposed to connect to, is broken, right at the sensor. i'm going to try and fix it, but doesn't look good.

$200+ for a new sensor lol, wow.

anyone know if a MAP from another car will work? i'm going to the salvage yard in a bit, barely ever a prelude there though. and i can't for the life of me find where these sensors are on slhondaparts, i have a part number, but searching for this doesn't link me to the cars it comes on, only to the part.

 

any MAP from the same family (OBDI, OBDII..etc) will work.

go to the local junkyard and pick one up. If you cant find one, i should have an extra laying around.

 

cool thanks

heading over there now, i'll post up when i (hopefully) get the replacement, install it, and try again.

 

well i brought home 3 map sensors, just in case.

same problem. it cranks, but no starting. all four cylinders are definitely getting fuel and spark. think i'll check the dizzy and make sure i don't have it backwards, i thought i corrected that though.

looks like i'm stuck here. no CEL, either.

 

I'd do a compression test.. You need ignition, fuel, and compression. You say you have ignition and fuel so just for ***** and giggles I'd check compression

 

i'll definitely be checking out compression tomorrow.

also, i tried the dizzy both ways, just to kinda rule out that i wasn't retarded to begin with and put it in in reverse. it was right the first time.

any other ideas in the meantime?

 

damn. Makes me wonder what else is wrong if the engine has good timing, its getting fuel and ignition. you sure the firing order is correct? i know stupid question but....you know...

 

Have you verified valve adjustments? I'm thinking if the valves are adjusted in the wrong order or wrong spec, they can potentially be in a partially open position during the compression stroke, which will cause a loss of compression even if the fuel, ignition and timing are all happening correctly. I would also double check crank/flywheel and cam timing marks again just to make sure they are all aligned correctly.

 

definitely possible, because i haven't done any valve adjustment yet, and i did disassemble the head to get it cleaned.

i'll be doing compression and valve adjustments this weekend.

 

ok tomorrow morning i will first do a valve adjustment, then i'll be doing compression tests. i've never done my own compression or leakdown tests, and the car is in the backyard, so i'll have to do it myself.

my question is, would it be better to do a leakdown test over a compression test? reason i ask is because someone here said that with brand new rings that aren't seated, leakage will be significant.

anyway i'm going to harbor frieight to grab the tester(s), so let me know which of these i should get:

Leakdown Tester #1
Leakdown Tester #2
Compression Tester #1
Compression Tester #2
Compression Tester #3

 

anyone?

 

Did you put the valves into the head yourself? try doing the valve adjustment and then a compression test to see what you're getting.

 

so i have a new "development".

my starter is fine, battery is brand new, but now does not want to crank anymore. just a rapid clicking noise.

after a while of trying to crank it, a little bit of a burn smell came from under the dash, along with a little bit of smoke

any ideas? took out main relay to check it, looks fine visually, going to test it right now.