after installing cams in my 00, gsr my car wont run right, It starts right up and the rpm shoots to 1600 runs great for a second then sputters and dies, when I try to start it back up it will only run with the gas petal slightly depressed and it runs horribly. when I pull the plugs cylinders 2 and 3 are very fouled and 1 and 4 are completly soaked in fuel. seems like my injectors are just dumping fuel. when i pulled my crank pulley off I kinda beat the doodoo out of it. Would that affect the injectors firing? sorry for the long post

 

What cams?
What engine?
Any engine management?
Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Adjustable cam gears?

 

Brian crower stage2 cams valve spring, and retainers, b18c1, phearable.net obd1 ecu, adjustable cam gears set at zero, stock fpr. also originally thought it was my dizzy so I have a new one, also have two sets of stock injectors ived tried. good compression and leak down results as well

 

did u do the valve lash????? are the cams timed properly?????

 

sorry, forgot im also throwing a cel 22 vtec oil pressure sensor

 

yes, valve lash set to BC specs, and the cams are timed correctly

 

I really think its a fueling issue because it starts right up and then acts like it floods out, also the piston tops are wet with gas after i pull the plugs, but im open to any ideas. Even took it to a shop and they couldn't figure it out but i dont think they tried too hard, they seemed mad i didnt have them do the work

 

may be the base map. is the ignition timing at 16 degrees

 

timing is good. I also thought the ecu could be it so I plugged back in my stock one and it did the same thing. Nobody seems concerned about the crank pulley being beat up. does the crank pulley along will the crank angle sensor not control injectors on a honda? cause i really beat the poop out of it. pulled the injectors out and fuel was dripping off of all of them

 

ive never ran anything new enough to have the crank sensor on the oil pump but with the pulley if you beat it up shouldnt affect much maybe the balance a little but nothing to make it run bad. did you beat up the woodruff key hole on the pulley?
also did you physicaly damage the crank sensor. if you did that may do it allthough im not sure if it would even start?

 

the keys good, dont think the sensors damaged because i would be throwing a cel for it. right? gonna plug back in my obd2 ecu and see if I get a cel for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5280dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the keys good, dont think the sensors damaged because i would be throwing a cel for it. right? gonna plug back in my obd2 ecu and see if I get a cel for it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would think you should throw a code. i would try that next and see what happens.
did the cams come with a any recomendations on were the cams should be,or did it say 0,0

 

they recommend 0,0 to start and tune from there, even on their website though they suggest 0 intake, -1 exhaust. Not much off from 0,0

 

The sensor down by the crank puley is the CKF sensor. Its only used for misfire detection on OBD2 cars(emissions stuff). The sensors inside the distributor are what the ecu uses to fire injectors and assign spark.
It kinda sounds like theres not enough vacuum to the map sensor during idle.
This will tell the ecu to dump fuel into the engine. ITB's have a similar issue hence the reason they run vacuum resevoirs...
I would try removing the map sensor and plug the hole in the throttle body. Then draw full vacuum on the map sensor and try starting the car. If it runs better,youve found your answer! (the cams arent producing enough vacuum at idle)
This can most likely be corrected by adjusting the cam gear settings.
Good luck!

 

Ill give that a try and get back to you guy . thanks alot

 

make sure you are pulling around 22in at idle, otherwise I think you advance one of the two cams a degree or two and it will pull more vacuum....if you cant get it to pull any more vacuum, adjust the fuel and get a tune on it quick, you will wash those rings out otherwise....

 

the car wont idle so couldnt get areading at idle but at 900-1100 rpm im reading 18ish, is this OK? also without sounding like a total noob what do you mean "wash the rings out"

 

checked it again at 1000rpm reading 22in. do you know which cam to adv.?

 

18 at 1100 rpm may be "okish"....pretty close I guess....just got a different tune on it quick....washing the rings out happens when there is alot of gas in the cylinders, it will make the rings leak and you will start burning oil....

 

put a vacuum pump on the map sensor and pulled 22 in. to see if it would help, and it didnt, even put a new pgmfi relay, and still wont run. I have tried what seems like everything and the car still wont run. Ive been messing with this car for 4 months trying to get it to run. all I did was put in cams, springs, and retainers. No one has any idea why it wont run. any ideas?

 

JUst thought i'd let everyone know what ive checked and replaced so far to help narrow things alittle

replaced pgmfi relay, dizzy, injectors, map sensor, and sparkplug wires. Ive done compression test, leakdown test, checked valve lash, checked valve timing, ignition timing, swiched between a chipped obd1 ecu, stock obd1 ecu, and stock obd2 ecu, Ive tried 2 different cylinder heads because the shop I took it to blamed my head.

the only things I havent checked yet are the fuel pressure regulator, because I dont have a fuel pressure tester, and the vtec solenoid which is throwing a cel 22.

thanks in advance to any input

 

take the vtec solenoid off and clean the screen in it, that should fix the CEL problem, if not, break at the test light and test for power etc. to the solenoid...at to the idle problem, do you know what your air/fuel's look like? it sounds like you need to have someone go through that ecu and adjust it accordingly

 

car wont run long enough to get a/f's, and ive switched ecu's, even swapped back in the stock cams stock ecu

 

Thats alot of work your doing trying to diag this thing!

First of all, forget about the code 22. Thats just a vtec malfunction fault and SHOULDNT affect the way it starts and idles.fix that later.

100% your cams are timed correctly?

Rotate the dizzy while cranking advance and retard. See if it wants to start either way.
does it just idle up to 1600 and die still?
So it does help it stay running if you hold the gas pedal down a little bit(more air)?
Plug wires assigned correctly(dumb mistake, ask me i know)?

Ran fine before cams right?

 

ran perfect before cams. the car runs with the gas down but horribly. The motor vibrates very bad like its misfiring or running on 3 cylinders. header pipes on cyl. 1 and 4 are significantly cooler than 2and 3 after it "runs" for a second. if the crank pulley lines up with the timing mark and the cam pulleys line up its timed correctly. Right?