HT,

2/13/08 EDIT: pictures

For those of you with this setup, how did you guys securely attach the velocity stack with the end of the intake arm? i've got a silicon band thingy in between the two (the silicon band/hose won't fit over the end of the intake arm like the BPi instructions state you should do on a normal intake pipe) and i just wedged the filter/stack up into the intake arm and just zip-tied it for now... any ideas on what you guys have done...? Thanks!

Jo

The K&N RF-1048 is one BIG *** filter:


Picture showing how it sits with the ziptie:


Modified by jomama at 9:10 AM 2/13/2008


Modified by jomama at 10:22 PM 2/20/2008

 

isnt it meant to be used with an aftermarket intake arm with a 3" ID? idk

 

i did the same, don't worry, they won't felt off. also u can try to zip tide the intake arm to something else to prevent movement too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frozenb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did the same, don't worry, they won't felt off. also u can try to zip tide the intake arm to something else to prevent movement too</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, that's what i'll probably do. user "fuko" has the stack/filter with the samco arm and he said his is just "laying" there. lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.OB*GYN_Rhett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isnt it meant to be used with an aftermarket intake arm with a 3" ID? idk </TD></TR></TABLE>

it doesn't have to be. i'm cheap...

 

cheap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b 1 6 b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cheap </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's how i roll

 

Someone say...

B.P.I.??? Betta watch out foo!!! The Canadaians might be after you...

 

i did a back to back test with a v-stack that i have on an itr stock arm vs mugen.....

the v-stack i have which is almost identical to BPI's except mine is aluminum the v-stack made 4 more hp from 5k to redline

back to back test

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did a back to back test with a v-stack that i have on an itr stock arm vs mugen.....

the v-stack i have which is almost identical to BPI's except mine is aluminum the v-stack made 4 more hp from 5k to redline

back to back test</TD></TR></TABLE>

badass! what else can i say? go-fight-kill's doing a bunch of dyno tests with different setups.

 

I just ordered a Vibrant aluminum velocity stack, and a Blox aluminum velocity stack... I'm about to test all 3, back to back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just ordered a Vibrant aluminum velocity stack, and a Blox aluminum velocity stack... I'm about to test all 3, back to back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very cool, your efforts will be appreciated for sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just ordered a Vibrant aluminum velocity stack, and a Blox aluminum velocity stack... I'm about to test all 3, back to back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

dude, that's just waaay overkill. might as well borrow other's different intake systems and compare general "v-stacks on a stick" with others still, you are DA MAN. how are you paying for the time on the dyno just testing different setups? hookup?

 

Is there a filter that will fit the velocity stack that's smaller than the K&N RF-1048? I haven't looked on K&N's website and researched, but I figured someone here has tried.

 

i know neo_ used this:



maybe he can comment on what p/n it was.

 

Hmm...that filter might work better, actually. I'm going to do some measurements to see if I can utilize a modified stock airbox lower (and upper), just for the simple fact that I *hate* using zipties to hold the intake arm.

Just looks ghetto But then again a cut-up airbox looks ghetto if done incorrectly.

Best solution seems to be a 3" short-ram pipe with the bpi and filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm...that filter might work better, actually. I'm going to do some measurements to see if I can utilize a modified stock airbox lower (and upper), just for the simple fact that I *hate* using zipties to hold the intake arm.

Just looks ghetto But then again a cut-up airbox looks ghetto if done incorrectly.

Best solution seems to be a 3" short-ram pipe with the bpi and filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i hear you on all levels. when the weather's better, i'm going to try to fab up a box that will enclose the filter so i can use the bottom half of "BSQ's" icetake... like a mugen/comptech. others are doing something similar... so many velocity stack threads in one week!!!

something siiiimilar to endyn's:


we gotta consolidate these stack threads... just use jordan's


Modified by jomama at 10:09 AM 2/27/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jomama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dude, that's just waaay overkill. might as well borrow other's different intake systems and compare general "v-stacks on a stick" with others still, you are DA MAN. how are you paying for the time on the dyno just testing different setups? hookup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Our shop has an AWD dyno, so I have it at my disposal. No way in hell I could afford the time I've spent on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jomama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah, that's what i'll probably do. user "fuko" has the stack/filter with the samco arm and he said his is just "laying" there. lol.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

did i say "laying" there? my bad if i did. bad grammar FTL

i meant to say "lying"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jomama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know neo_ used this:



maybe he can comment on what p/n it was.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had that filter and intake setup over a year ago. The way I found the filter was just by going to K&N's website, and searching filter's by their dimensions. You can do the same thing here:

http://knfilters.com/search/universal.aspx

You can find pretty much any filter dimension that you desire.

 

that filter is 4600 by the looks of it carbon fiber, and it is more money than 4600 with rubber cap...

Anyway I have this for almost 2 years now at the end of aem cai, and it works great...

 

As of now, I did it like jomama except i didn't use a zip tie, i used a clamp.

I didn't even have the coupling which BPI recommends, i just clamp the stock intake arm to the stack.

Is there another solution to secure the stack with stock intake arm? or i should just go 3" aluminum arm???

 

^ any pictures? i'm sure a clamp would be better just stick with the stock ITR intake arm...

 

Basically, mine is just like yours, except you had used a silicone coupling in between the intake arm and the stack, and i don't have that silicone coupling.

Just i just put the stack inside the stock intake arm, the thing is the stock intake arm is way bigger than the stack's outlet diameter. That's why it doesn't seal tight even using the clamp. Or did i get the wrong stack from BPI?

 

I tried putting a 3" silicone coupling over the stack and it fits perfectly but on the other hand, the 3" silicone coupling won't fit inside or outside the stock intake arm~

I might need a reducer?

 

^ not sure... my coupling, like you said, fit inside the stock intake arm... FYI, i know you just installed the 3" version of the BPI stack, but they're just about to release a 3.5" version