Okay, I've been through 2 ludes so far. 1st one I totaled and the second one I fixed and sold. I still have my h22 from my first. And i'd like to build it up, get a shell, and drop it in. So now I dont know what all i should do. I dont want to get into boring the block and doing after market pistons.. so far i have some jun cam gears.. the cams themselves are just too pricey. I want to also eventually go turbo, so no point in headers yet... been thinking bout fuel rail/injector/regulator... just looking to get some ideas on other things.. and what brand.. also.. is it true if i put a h23 tranny with my h22 ill get more torque with those longer gears? What all should i do?

 

think big picture.

there is a thread in the faq about a realistic look of modifying your car. You should also check out the forced inducted threads in there as well

 

i have... not trying to make the fastest engine ever.. just wanna put few bolt ons and what not.. just cant think of everything that would help

 

From what you posted about doing a turbo, then not wanting to buy a set of cams cause they are too pricey. FI set-ups run 1000's of dollars.
SOUNDS like you need to read up more on what you want to do. We can throw out ideas at you, but we need more specifics from you. Like how much money, time frame, whos doing what, etc....

 

Another option is to send your block to be built. I personally am going with a Laskey Racing block. It's a bit pricey, but it takes care of your whole bottom end in one sweep. Here's the list of what they do:

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod (saves 8lbs, picks up 7HP, increases oil pressure and volume)
OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450

Eagle rods substituted for Pauters...$3050


I'm really excited to get mine headed that way, so just something to ponder for ya.

 

ir you are not looking to spend much then dont. leave the car stock. or to pick up a little bit just spend some money on something like a dc or megan racing HEADER (there is only one), intake, and exhaust. you will pick up a few hp and not break the bank.

but like posted earlier if you want a turbo set up be prepared to spend thousands of dollars. most good turbo's will cost you 600, then you have to throw in all of the other stuff, injectors, manifold, down pipe, exhaust, intercooler and piping, oil lines, tap oil pan, tuning software etc etc etc.

 

Would you mind explaining how removing the balancer belt boosts HP and increases oil pressure. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scrim12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another option is to send your block to be built. I personally am going with a Laskey Racing block. It's a bit pricey, but it takes care of your whole bottom end in one sweep. Here's the list of what they do:

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod (saves 8lbs, picks up 7HP, increases oil pressure and volume)
OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450

Eagle rods substituted for Pauters...$3050


I'm really excited to get mine headed that way, so just something to ponder for ya.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would you mind explaining how removing the balancer belt boosts HP and increases oil pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

less parasitic drag on the motor and drops about 20 lbs from the rotating assembly (if you delete the shafts).

it increases oil pressure because there are less places for the oil to go. Same concept of losing the oil squirters, the oil pressure will rise.

 

Is it safe on a stock block and does the block have to be pulled out to remove the shaft?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

less parasitic drag on the motor and drops about 20 lbs from the rotating assembly (if you delete the shafts).

it increases oil pressure because there are less places for the oil to go. Same concept of losing the oil squirters, the oil pressure will rise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it safe on a stock block and does the block have to be pulled out to remove the shaft?</TD></TR></TABLE>

to get them out, yes i believe so as there isnt much room in there. Balancer shafts do not have an effect on engine longevity. they are there purely for comfort.

 

So say for instance I just cut the belt off. Will that be benefical in anyway shape or form?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

to get them out, yes i believe so as there isnt much room in there. Balancer shafts do not have an effect on engine longevity. they are there purely for comfort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well the turbo is going to be my most expensive mod... im not looking to go racing for money.. just want lil something extra.. ive thought about sleeving blocks and what not but its too much work and too much $$.. i dont mind spending a little bit here and there.. and this isnt something i plan on doing within a couple months.. i dont even have a shell yet.. hard as hell to find a shell with a good body w/interior.. any one know about putting the h23 tranny with the h22 for more torque?

 

more torque???? Mabey not, if by much. I have H22 with H23 tranny. The gear ratios on the M2B4 and M2S4(I think thats the one for h23) are so similar its not even worth spending the money.

Appearently and Im going to be looking furthur into this, putting a quaife into a M2S4, will gain more power? I think it might be worth investigating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So say for instance I just cut the belt off. Will that be benefical in anyway shape or form?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you think?

 

I really have no clue. Cause removing the B.S. belt isnt the same as removing the balance shaft itself<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what do you think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

why not?

 

You might pick up a couple HP by removing some of the drag off the engine, but there a numerous steps involved to actually pulling the whole secondary balance shaft system out. There are a few threads on here already that go into this in detail and there are a couple companies that I believe sell kits to help remove the shafts (including plugging the oil orifices, etc).

tommy1387, as others have mentioned, make sure you know what you're getting into. Turbo's are not a cheap upgrade and you can't do them half-way; if you try to cut corners you risk literally blowing-up your motor. If you think you want to go turbo eventually and don't mind waiting to build it but don't want to go extreme either, check around for the mods you'll need to do to prep the motor and start working on those (ie additional fuel, upgraded ignition, TUNING [hondata and the like], etc). I'm more of an NA guy, so I can't speak volumes on FI, but if you're looking for a mild turbo build, there's less internal engine work to be done; it's more about the whole system working together and not detonating as opposed to trying to squeak every HP out of the engine by doing all the little things (which will obviously help a turbo motor too, but costs more $$$).

 

what all should i do to get rdy for a turbo? what should i upgrade? and if there's a choice like what size injectors.. what do you recommend?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

IDK, why ask why?


Modified by Acidcrakker at 4:34 AM 2/10/2008

 

There is alot you need to upgrade. If you are worried about money then turbo isnt the way to go... some of the things you would need for say stock block w/ turbo around 7-12 PSI

walbro 255 fuel pump -$100
h22 turbo manifold - 600
3" downpipe - 250
3" k-teller exhaust - 600 (installed)
2.5" aluminum charge piping - 400
garrett core 600hp intercooler - 400 (ebay ftw! much cheeper)
tial 38mm wastegate - 235
tial 50mm BOV - 235
clamps/couplers/oil lines/fittings - 250
wastegate dumptube - 75
precision 880cc injectors - 325
chipped obd1 ecu - 200
tuning - 600
gt3076r turbo - 1250

Total is around $6000 w/o install

That set up will be tuned for around 300 whp but all of those parts are capable for up to 600 whp for when you build your block. I am having synapse motor sports do this set for me in another month or two. Those are high quality parts but its the only way to go, if you cheep out on parts you will have problemssss... good luck with the build!

 

what if im just looking to get about 7psi so i can keep block stock? and i also want to keep power steering and ac! big must in houston

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

IDK, why ask why?


Modified by Acidcrakker at 4:34 AM 2/10/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

because making you think and not spoon feeding you answers that can be google'd for saves me a few breathes of life.

by removing the belt, you are removing the drag on the crank, thus freeing up power. You dont have to completely remove everything to see the power effects. The rest of the removal only involves taking out all the unused weight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommy1387 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if im just looking to get about 7psi so i can keep block stock? and i also want to keep power steering and ac! big must in houston</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check if your compression is good & do a leak down if your serious about turbo. If your good there, get decent parts & a GOOD tune & you should be ok on a stock block.

 

how are "turbo kits"... are they just as good? ive heard most of em let you keep your accessories

 

?