Ok, I am going back to the dyno because over time I have ordered more parts, the motor is def. loose now ect....

I want to rev the engine out a little more but I don't know if its a smart thing to do. My red-line now is 8200.

Here is my build:
JDM H22A, Crower Stage 3 Cams (316 Duration), Ferrea Valves, Ferrea Ti Valve Seats and Retainers , Mahle 11.5/1 Pistons, Crower Max Light Rods, Micropolished and Balanced Honda Crank, STR 70mm Throttle Body, AEM Fuel Rail, B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator, RC 440cc Injectors, Fidanza Cam Gears, Motorvations Cam Seal, Hytech Tri-Y Custom Header (2.5in Collector), K-Teller Exhaust Piping with Magnaflow Resonator, and ES Oval Muffler (All 2.5in) with custom turn down tip by Morgan Fabrications, Fluidyne Radiator with FAL Fan, Unorthodox Race Crank Pulley, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT Xtreme Pressure Plate with 6-Puck Unsprung Race Disc, Hondata S200 (Jim Helbing of Motorvations Tuned and Built)

What do you guys think would be a safe redline to rev to but on the peak of a bad idea.

This car has been on the dyno before. It makes power all the way to 8200rpm, but then we let off. The power never falls off at all. Thats why I wanted to know where I should rev it too.


Modified by H22PwrdHatch at 3:24 PM 2/7/2008

 

it will be best to get it tunned on the dyno!!!!
this way you can see where power starts too really drop off! lets say power peaks @7800rpm and holds good power intell 8200rpm but then the power really starts too fall off that means the revlimit should be set too 8200rpm approx


if ur not going on the dno right away i say 8k will be very safe you could probally push 8500 but ill say 8k

but get ur build on the dyno and post numbers up it is a nice set-up

 

To the 1st reply: Read+you=enlightenment

To the OP: I would say consider 8500rpm as a point to start, 8700rpm might be a max. You have a good bottom end there made to rev, but 85-8700rpm is really pushing it for having long reliability in mind.

Perhaps retune and use your cam gears to move the powerband back down?

 

Thanks for the input...I need more answer like this to re-insure me.

 

i rev mine to 8600 stock valvetrain. have not encountered a problem yet...

 

Yeah, with a built head and bottom like that, I would suspect you should be able to push it a bit more. Is this a DD or a track car? Just curious, but you didn't mention new springs in your build... was this an omission here or are you actually running the stock springs (this will obviously make a big difference in what rev's you should be running)? Rest of the build looks great though (no IM?)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AdamB18C1EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i rev mine to 8600 stock valvetrain. have not encountered a problem yet... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i've done the same without any issues, just becareful of misshifting.

When i tore the motor down, the rod bearings were showing some wear but also had 60k miles on them. The mains were in damn near perfect shape.

mains:


this is the only main which showed wear which is pretty understandable being that it is closest to the flywheel and takes the brunt of the force


example of the rod bearings:




kinda dirty but oh well.

 

Yes, it was an omission. I do have Ferrea Valve Springs also. No IM because this motor is in a Civic. Hopefully Skunk is working on there Composite Manifold.

 

So, no one else has any input?