Time for a new welding hood....Miller Elite vs. Speedglas....also who uses magnification??
So, I summed it up in the title. I am looking at the mid 200 dollar hoods because the hood/lense I have now is halo'd pretty substantially. Not wanting to mess my eyeballs up, I need to make a switch.
The speedglas has the ventilation, and is a tad more expensive. Both have four light sensors which is a BIG plus over the 2 my current lense has.
My question is....is one better than the other. I know the speedglas has these "glove on" buttons...but I can take my gloves off...it's fine really. The ventilation seems interesting though, but do you end up breathing in more gases?
Also, does anyone doing mani's or similar fab use magnification of any kind?
The speedglas has the ventilation, and is a tad more expensive. Both have four light sensors which is a BIG plus over the 2 my current lense has.
My question is....is one better than the other. I know the speedglas has these "glove on" buttons...but I can take my gloves off...it's fine really. The ventilation seems interesting though, but do you end up breathing in more gases?
Also, does anyone doing mani's or similar fab use magnification of any kind?
Everyone here has miller elite helmets, I am likely the only one who has had a speed glass but two years ago when I got mine it didn't have 4 sensors, it was either 3 or 2. Anyways the speedglass flashed me lots, the elite is the best autodarkening helmet I have used.
While I've never used an Elite, I did test out a speedglass 2 years ago, a 2 sensor version.
Little back story, I've been a tube frame welder for 4 years. The whole time, I've used a peice of **** Lincoln Electric non-auto-darkening, custom drunken paint job, broken head gear, and all.
I got another job at a place where I could 'check out' the speedglass helmets they used on the assembly line. I used it for 2 hours, flashed myself half a dozen times, and just about threw the damn thing in the trash. I couldn't get the settings right in the least bit (they didn't even seem to hold consistancy), and the tubes kept blocking the sensors (I'm betting a 4 sensor model wouldn't have this problem). 2 hours and 1 minute later, I had my piece of **** hood back on, and was back to normal.
Little back story, I've been a tube frame welder for 4 years. The whole time, I've used a peice of **** Lincoln Electric non-auto-darkening, custom drunken paint job, broken head gear, and all.
I got another job at a place where I could 'check out' the speedglass helmets they used on the assembly line. I used it for 2 hours, flashed myself half a dozen times, and just about threw the damn thing in the trash. I couldn't get the settings right in the least bit (they didn't even seem to hold consistancy), and the tubes kept blocking the sensors (I'm betting a 4 sensor model wouldn't have this problem). 2 hours and 1 minute later, I had my piece of **** hood back on, and was back to normal.
If you get an elite just make sure it is a new one and not an older left over model. The newest ones have Auto On where the older ones do not. That is the only time I have been flashed by mine is when I have stopped welding for a bit and then went to tack something and it had shut itself off.
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I have both and use the SpeedGlass 100% of the time, the Miller just sits as a backup. I've used it but it seems bulkier and heavier and sometimes the Miller wouldn't turn on when I was welding cages due to where the sensors where. Haven't had any issues with the SpeedGlass.
I use a Miller Elite, no complaints here. I'd like one of the new models but haven't got that far yet. As far as magnification, I've used it when I was doing some really thin stainless but for the most part don't use any.
Only one, but you have much better odds of one of them seeing the light with 4 sensors than with 2 or 3, this isn't really a big deal if you are just welding on a bench all day, but if you are doing work in tight spaces it REALLY is a big deal, getting flashed sucks, especially when you are already frustrated with how little room you have to do the weld.
So, in that both the Speed and the Elite I'm looking at has 4 sensors, then it doesn't seem like any one things seperates the two other than price. In addition noone has really anything bad to say about the Elite, but a couple valid points have been made against the speed.
Sounds like the Elite is the way to go so far. I found a new one, auto on, plain black (so I can paint my pimp/ho scene on it), protective bag, and some other stuff for like 225.00.
Sounds like the Elite is the way to go so far. I found a new one, auto on, plain black (so I can paint my pimp/ho scene on it), protective bag, and some other stuff for like 225.00.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evile140 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you get an elite just make sure it is a new one and not an older left over model. The newest ones have Auto On where the older ones do not. That is the only time I have been flashed by mine is when I have stopped welding for a bit and then went to tack something and it had shut itself off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
mine is an older one with the 'on' button, it sounds like a pain in the *** but i have been so accustomed to pushing it every time i put it on, even if i had only taken it off for a minute. i have been flashed by my elite, never mid weld, but a couple times when just striking an arc it hasn't reacted fast enough, i don't know if weather plays a factor in this.
mine is an older one with the 'on' button, it sounds like a pain in the *** but i have been so accustomed to pushing it every time i put it on, even if i had only taken it off for a minute. i have been flashed by my elite, never mid weld, but a couple times when just striking an arc it hasn't reacted fast enough, i don't know if weather plays a factor in this.
i used to have a speedglas 9000x it worked great, if you were in a tight spot you could turn the dial and make it always dark to avoid getting flashed. i now have a 9002x and it works ok but doesnt have the always dark feature, so if im doing something in a tight spot i get flashed sometimes. now i have a $20 ace hardware helmet i keep around for the nights i get real pissed off at my auto-darkening. im thinking about buying a 9000x again and i would recommend it over the 9002x for a tig welder. the ventilation is nice, it picks up air in the back of the light gray piece not in the front and the fumes are not worse than my cheep helmet with no ventilation, the only difference is my speedglas dosent fog up.
Ever considered looking at a JACKSON NEXGEN?
Ive never heard any BAD feedback on these, ever.
Yet alone, it never have gave me any problems this past 2+ years.
Easy buttons, Digital Gauge, 4 Sensors.. Etc.
Goodluck on whichever you end up going with.
Ive never heard any BAD feedback on these, ever.
Yet alone, it never have gave me any problems this past 2+ years.
Easy buttons, Digital Gauge, 4 Sensors.. Etc.
Goodluck on whichever you end up going with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i don't know if weather plays a factor in this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It does, when it gets to freezing level and below I notice I get flashed sometimes, its rare I weld below freezing these days though. When I do I just use a normal mask.
It does, when it gets to freezing level and below I notice I get flashed sometimes, its rare I weld below freezing these days though. When I do I just use a normal mask.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It does, when it gets to freezing level and below...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You workin out on the pipeline or something...lol
It does, when it gets to freezing level and below...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You workin out on the pipeline or something...lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It does, when it gets to freezing level and below I notice I get flashed sometimes, its rare I weld below freezing these days though. When I do I just use a normal mask.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that explains the couple small flashes i got in the last week or two. i have to work in my uninsulated garage so it gets damn cold when the weather is bad.
It does, when it gets to freezing level and below I notice I get flashed sometimes, its rare I weld below freezing these days though. When I do I just use a normal mask.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that explains the couple small flashes i got in the last week or two. i have to work in my uninsulated garage so it gets damn cold when the weather is bad.
I like my speed glas (2 sensor) but its also the only one I have ever owned. Ive been flashed but that is easily fixed with the sensitivity button.
I have very little problems with fogging up unless I leave it in the tool box over night when its cold out. That is easily fixed by putting it in front of a heater. I welded outside the other day at -20 degrees with no issues darkening.
Magnification shouldnt be something you use until you have to in my opinion. As a matter of fact I have tried to use a few "older" guys welding hoods at work that have "cheaters" in them and I can hardly get my eyes to focus.
The biggest reason I like my speedglas though is because it was free.
I have very little problems with fogging up unless I leave it in the tool box over night when its cold out. That is easily fixed by putting it in front of a heater. I welded outside the other day at -20 degrees with no issues darkening.
Magnification shouldnt be something you use until you have to in my opinion. As a matter of fact I have tried to use a few "older" guys welding hoods at work that have "cheaters" in them and I can hardly get my eyes to focus.
The biggest reason I like my speedglas though is because it was free.



