Energy Suspension Bushing Question?
I have a 94 Integra RS and I am putting Neuspeed Sport springs and Neuspeed Konis on it. The car has a few miles on it so i decided to get new bushings for it, so i got a master set of Energy Supension bushings. I daily drive the car but also use it for track days. I was told that when replacing the bushings on the front control arm there is one that I would probably be better off leaving stock. I dont remeber which one he said so I thought i would ask the Honda-tech public.
Thanks
I already know to use use OEM trailing arm bushings..that has already been done to get through inspection.
Thanks
I already know to use use OEM trailing arm bushings..that has already been done to get through inspection.
Heh ... Neuspeed makes Konis now? Weird. :-p
FWIW - I've had poly bushings in all of my front LCA slots and in my rear trailing arms for two years now and my car is still plenty fast and handles well. The bushing ***** will tell you that I'm an idiot and I'm binding and range of motion and blah blah blah, but it doesn't matter. The car will work just fine, so go drive it and don't over-think it. That's my advice.
FWIW - I've had poly bushings in all of my front LCA slots and in my rear trailing arms for two years now and my car is still plenty fast and handles well. The bushing ***** will tell you that I'm an idiot and I'm binding and range of motion and blah blah blah, but it doesn't matter. The car will work just fine, so go drive it and don't over-think it. That's my advice.
yep everyone tells me not to put prothane in my front lcas. but i did wwaayy back in the old car and i did in the new(er) car and havent had any bushing issues (once i sorted the center sleeve length issue)
I know it will make the daily commute a little stiffer, but for track purposes it will be a good idea to install the whole kit of bushings?
I think it might have been the inner bushing on the control arm. I heard that it will be to stiff causing the control arm to not pivot up and down like it is supposed to.
Any ideas?
I think it might have been the inner bushing on the control arm. I heard that it will be to stiff causing the control arm to not pivot up and down like it is supposed to.
Any ideas?
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i would do them all. the 'binding' people talk about is minimal in my eyes. the forces applied when driving on track will easily negate the 'binding'
Ok..thanks for the info Lo-Buck
Thats kind of what i thought but i thought I would ask and see if anybody had experience.
Thats kind of what i thought but i thought I would ask and see if anybody had experience.
I have poly bushing too and from some posts that i have read they seem to wear out a faster than OEM bushings. So you might have to replace them every few years. I haven't had any problems with mine but i've only put them in last spring and only drive the car from may-oct. dd autox and track.
Ive only heard discussion about the rear trailing arm bushings binding. I have had all poly bushings for 2 seasons now and they have held up great, no complaints. Car is autocrossed reqularly and driven lightly in the summer. Ive only noticed the squeeking in cold weather, apply the lube very liberaly. Get extra lube, what they give you is barely enough.
Remember lo-buck, and Scott; that your guys have a very different suspension in the front then the 92-01 civics, and 94-01 integras.
I still think it is a horrible idea to put poly in a multi axis bushing. But in the EF/DA the front suspension is different and poly MIGHT not be as bad.
Scott i still think that if you get an OEM/SB in the rear you could tell a difference.
I still think it is a horrible idea to put poly in a multi axis bushing. But in the EF/DA the front suspension is different and poly MIGHT not be as bad.
Scott i still think that if you get an OEM/SB in the rear you could tell a difference.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Scott i still think that if you get an OEM/SB in the rear you could tell a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that could be true. I just think that people tend to overestimate how important it is. They make it sound like it will snap oversteer so bad with poly RTA bushings that the taillights will smack you in the face. I'm just saying that it's not necessarily so. You can go plenty fast and still have the car handle well with poly bushings. Are they better than OE/SB? Probably not, but that doesn't change the fact. That's all I'm saying. I actually have spare trailing arms with 100% good OE bushings in them just chilling in my spare parts bin, but I've never had enough motivation to even try putting them on. Other stuff has always been more important. Maybe one of these days I'll give those a shot or I may just pony up and pick up a set of the SBs from Kiwi.
That is a good point about the multi-axis arm versus radius rod front suspension. I guess I hadn't really thought about that.
Scott i still think that if you get an OEM/SB in the rear you could tell a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that could be true. I just think that people tend to overestimate how important it is. They make it sound like it will snap oversteer so bad with poly RTA bushings that the taillights will smack you in the face. I'm just saying that it's not necessarily so. You can go plenty fast and still have the car handle well with poly bushings. Are they better than OE/SB? Probably not, but that doesn't change the fact. That's all I'm saying. I actually have spare trailing arms with 100% good OE bushings in them just chilling in my spare parts bin, but I've never had enough motivation to even try putting them on. Other stuff has always been more important. Maybe one of these days I'll give those a shot or I may just pony up and pick up a set of the SBs from Kiwi.
That is a good point about the multi-axis arm versus radius rod front suspension. I guess I hadn't really thought about that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember lo-buck, and Scott; that your guys have a very different suspension in the front then the 92-01 civics, and 94-01 integras.
I still think it is a horrible idea to put poly in a multi axis bushing. But in the EF/DA the front suspension is different and poly MIGHT not be as bad.
Scott i still think that if you get an OEM/SB in the rear you could tell a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
point taken
I still think it is a horrible idea to put poly in a multi axis bushing. But in the EF/DA the front suspension is different and poly MIGHT not be as bad.
Scott i still think that if you get an OEM/SB in the rear you could tell a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
point taken
I've had the energy bushign set for about 9 years on my EG. The last five have been mainly autocross and some track use. The first 4 were daily driving. When I daily drove the car I would clean, re-lube and re-assemble (im dealing with snow in teh winter sand/salt etc). Just this past summer i started to feel a slight clunk when i tapped the brake at low speed. Ended up that the front LCA bushing inboard had "taken a set" or worn slightly, it just didnt fit tightly inside the arm or on teh sleeve anymore. I found a few tweaked bushings here and there, the upper front arm bushings, and rear LCA outboard bushings were all a bit out of shape, but not bad for that many years, and 20 or so autocrosses a year on R compounds.
Also, i've had the RTA energy bushings for this entire time, I do see the point people make about how they're not ideal, but it doesnt seem to produce any problems for me. Without the spring in place I can move the rear susp by hand. I've thought about modifying a set to open either end of the hole that the pivot pin goes through to allow easier twisting.
The poly bushings do wear, and they arent as good as bearings, but I think they deflect far less than rubber OEMs and are far more affordable than bearings, and they also do not provide the twisting (think extra spring?) that the OEMs do.
Also, i've had the RTA energy bushings for this entire time, I do see the point people make about how they're not ideal, but it doesnt seem to produce any problems for me. Without the spring in place I can move the rear susp by hand. I've thought about modifying a set to open either end of the hole that the pivot pin goes through to allow easier twisting.
The poly bushings do wear, and they arent as good as bearings, but I think they deflect far less than rubber OEMs and are far more affordable than bearings, and they also do not provide the twisting (think extra spring?) that the OEMs do.
ES is way easy to install, maybe this will say your mind.
ES install diresctions by SPOOLEDHONDA:
1. remove part (lets use the LCA as an example)
2. put part in fire to melt bushing out (i used a coffiee can w/ wood in it)
3. use a sawsall to cut out the metal ring
4. punch out metal ring w/ hammer & scruwdriver
5. lube bushing well
6. use bench vice to press the bushing in
7. lube metal sleeve and push in bushing
done.
ES install diresctions by SPOOLEDHONDA:
1. remove part (lets use the LCA as an example)
2. put part in fire to melt bushing out (i used a coffiee can w/ wood in it)
3. use a sawsall to cut out the metal ring
4. punch out metal ring w/ hammer & scruwdriver
5. lube bushing well
6. use bench vice to press the bushing in
7. lube metal sleeve and push in bushing
done.
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