HID install, now headlights won't turn off
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HID install, now headlights won't turn off
"Xentec" HID lights went in, put the negative back on the battery and they light up, great!
But the keys aren't in the ignition and the light stalk is in the off position. So basically the headlights are on all the time...so far, I haven't figured out a way to turn it off.
BTW, this is the wiring diagram I used, as you can see there is only one way to wire it, 2 wires comes out of the bulb that plugs into the harness, the other end of the harness plus into the oem connector. Another wire was grounded.
[/img]
Any clues?
But the keys aren't in the ignition and the light stalk is in the off position. So basically the headlights are on all the time...so far, I haven't figured out a way to turn it off.
BTW, this is the wiring diagram I used, as you can see there is only one way to wire it, 2 wires comes out of the bulb that plugs into the harness, the other end of the harness plus into the oem connector. Another wire was grounded.
[/img]Any clues?
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NY, USA
Re: HID install, now headlights won't turn off (jinu)
you didn't wire it correctly....
Harness and a relay or three...
my poor excuse for diagrams...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1871411
Harness and a relay or three...
my poor excuse for diagrams...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1871411
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
From: NY, USA
Re: HID install, now headlights won't turn off (jinu)
read this: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938
tells you how to solder, make proper connections, and sorta explains relays and diodes.
you need to know how to solder, and how relays and diodes work...
for more info about relays and diodes -> http://www.the12volt.com
tells you how to solder, make proper connections, and sorta explains relays and diodes.
you need to know how to solder, and how relays and diodes work...
for more info about relays and diodes -> http://www.the12volt.com
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,137
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From: NY, USA
Re: HID install, now headlights won't turn off (jinu)
it is plug and play... but thats if you connect it directly to your headlight harness..
I do not recommend doing that...
because, at peak, a ballast can draw 15-25 amps
your stock wiring can handle 10amps max..
also, if you use a wiring harness....with a few relays and diodes... you can prevent your lights from going out when you flash your high beams, or prevent them from turning on breifly when you flash your highbeams...
hids, DO NOT, like to be turned on then quickly turned off then on again...
it ruins the bulb, and shortens the life span.
all this information is available in other threads...
not only that.. but hid kits are really bad in halogen reflector housing, because of the glare.... you should've just spent good money on good bulbs (philips X-tream power or Osram night breakers) not only that, but they are at least $20 cheaper than the cheapest pnp kit!
those give you much better halogen output... and it doesn't cause any glare.
Also you never mentioned what kind of hid kit you bought, what car or bulb size it was supposed to replace..
without solid information on the setup that you are trying to run... nobody here can help you...
Just search and look for the answer... this stuff has been covered MANY times...you aren't special...
I do not recommend doing that...
because, at peak, a ballast can draw 15-25 amps
your stock wiring can handle 10amps max..
also, if you use a wiring harness....with a few relays and diodes... you can prevent your lights from going out when you flash your high beams, or prevent them from turning on breifly when you flash your highbeams...
hids, DO NOT, like to be turned on then quickly turned off then on again...
it ruins the bulb, and shortens the life span.
all this information is available in other threads...
not only that.. but hid kits are really bad in halogen reflector housing, because of the glare.... you should've just spent good money on good bulbs (philips X-tream power or Osram night breakers) not only that, but they are at least $20 cheaper than the cheapest pnp kit!
those give you much better halogen output... and it doesn't cause any glare.
Also you never mentioned what kind of hid kit you bought, what car or bulb size it was supposed to replace..
without solid information on the setup that you are trying to run... nobody here can help you...
Just search and look for the answer... this stuff has been covered MANY times...you aren't special...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: phoenix, az, us
the xentec kits are pretty simple. you have two wires coming out the ballast low side plug should be a black and a blue. blue goes to the positive of the oem connector, black goes to the negative of the oem connector. just clip the little 3 inch wires that hang out of the ballast power to oem connectors.
if you wired those to the battery that is your problem.
they cannot turn on without power. the stalk controls power to the OEM headlight connector. so there is no way it will magically turn on unless you added some wiring.
those extra little wires hanging our are because you got an H4 kit, and there are several options for that plug. the wires are there for other models of the kit which you did not get, they are not there to be connected to anything.
also dont worry about all the hype about melting your wiring harness. if you turn the lights on and both ballasts light instantly every time you are fine. each ballast pulls 10amps for about 2 seconds. even if the wiring was horribly undersized its not really long enough to over heat the harness and melt it down.
if the wire gauge is not large enough the ballast wont have enough current on startup to light both ballasts reliably everytime. usually one will light and the other will flicker and go off or do nothing. this is when a relay kit is required.
typical headlight wiring can handle 15-20 amps pretty easily. just look at the size of the oem fuse installed in the headlights, there is your answer.
if you are that worried about it i have relay kits that require absolutely no cutting, splicing or soldering. people on here just like to make things more difficult than they need to be. they have one connector that plugs into the oem headlight connector, 2 power plugs, one for each ballast. a 30 amp relay and 3 fuses. one main fuse and one fuse for each ballast. that way if one ballast goes bad it wont pop that main fuse and leave you with no headlights.
bpr i was looking at your wiring charts. a 15 amp fuse is a bit large for 18awg wire of any reasonable length. the fuse is there to protect the wire from overheating and causing a fire. you are not allowing any headroom at all. amp draw goes up if batt voltage dips. which can and will happen. 15amp fuse needs to be on at least a 16awg circuit.
why you would run one fuse with 2 relays parallel is completely beyond me. a relay can handle 30 amps, why use two? if there are 2 relays each should have its own service and fuse. this way if one circuit shorts out then you blow only one fuse and still have one headlight to get you home. with your diagram if either relay goes bad or shorts then you lose the entire lighting circuit. not safe at all.
Modified by kawgomoo at 9:36 PM 1/28/2008
if you wired those to the battery that is your problem.
they cannot turn on without power. the stalk controls power to the OEM headlight connector. so there is no way it will magically turn on unless you added some wiring.
those extra little wires hanging our are because you got an H4 kit, and there are several options for that plug. the wires are there for other models of the kit which you did not get, they are not there to be connected to anything.
also dont worry about all the hype about melting your wiring harness. if you turn the lights on and both ballasts light instantly every time you are fine. each ballast pulls 10amps for about 2 seconds. even if the wiring was horribly undersized its not really long enough to over heat the harness and melt it down.
if the wire gauge is not large enough the ballast wont have enough current on startup to light both ballasts reliably everytime. usually one will light and the other will flicker and go off or do nothing. this is when a relay kit is required.
typical headlight wiring can handle 15-20 amps pretty easily. just look at the size of the oem fuse installed in the headlights, there is your answer.
if you are that worried about it i have relay kits that require absolutely no cutting, splicing or soldering. people on here just like to make things more difficult than they need to be. they have one connector that plugs into the oem headlight connector, 2 power plugs, one for each ballast. a 30 amp relay and 3 fuses. one main fuse and one fuse for each ballast. that way if one ballast goes bad it wont pop that main fuse and leave you with no headlights.
bpr i was looking at your wiring charts. a 15 amp fuse is a bit large for 18awg wire of any reasonable length. the fuse is there to protect the wire from overheating and causing a fire. you are not allowing any headroom at all. amp draw goes up if batt voltage dips. which can and will happen. 15amp fuse needs to be on at least a 16awg circuit.
why you would run one fuse with 2 relays parallel is completely beyond me. a relay can handle 30 amps, why use two? if there are 2 relays each should have its own service and fuse. this way if one circuit shorts out then you blow only one fuse and still have one headlight to get you home. with your diagram if either relay goes bad or shorts then you lose the entire lighting circuit. not safe at all.
Modified by kawgomoo at 9:36 PM 1/28/2008
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Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,137
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From: NY, USA
Re: (kawgomoo)
eh.. i guess i was an ***...
yeah... ppl run pnp hids without harnesses...
and if they work fine without the harness. is should be fine...
if they flicker, check the connections.. it might have come loose or got water in it..
if its not loose, water or grounds.. then you need a harness..
i guess i was expecting too much.. esp if the op didn't know that connecting anything directly to the battery will make them turn on... and not controlled by the light stalk...
where to buy harnesses: marketplace, hidplanet, ebay, etc..
but seriously..... if you didn't know connecting it directly to the battery with no switch... that you won't be able to turn it off without disconnecting it...
>.>
<.<
yeah... ppl run pnp hids without harnesses...
and if they work fine without the harness. is should be fine...
if they flicker, check the connections.. it might have come loose or got water in it..
if its not loose, water or grounds.. then you need a harness..
i guess i was expecting too much.. esp if the op didn't know that connecting anything directly to the battery will make them turn on... and not controlled by the light stalk...
where to buy harnesses: marketplace, hidplanet, ebay, etc..
but seriously..... if you didn't know connecting it directly to the battery with no switch... that you won't be able to turn it off without disconnecting it...
>.>
<.<
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: phoenix, az, us
Re: (bpr0422)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eh.. i guess i was an ***...
but seriously..... if you didn't know connecting it directly to the battery with no switch... that you won't be able to turn it off without disconnecting it...
>.>
<.<</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol yeah i was thinking that too. but everyone has to start somewhere. the first time i saw little leads hanging off the easy wire connector i was like wtf. took a few minutes and some head scratching before it all made sense.
xentec is a seller on here, and he has the relay harnesses. i have a shitpile of them however because i never use them
Modified by kawgomoo at 11:04 PM 1/28/2008
but seriously..... if you didn't know connecting it directly to the battery with no switch... that you won't be able to turn it off without disconnecting it...
>.>
<.<</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol yeah i was thinking that too. but everyone has to start somewhere. the first time i saw little leads hanging off the easy wire connector i was like wtf. took a few minutes and some head scratching before it all made sense.
xentec is a seller on here, and he has the relay harnesses. i have a shitpile of them however because i never use them
Modified by kawgomoo at 11:04 PM 1/28/2008
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