posted here cuz i think this is the only forum to give back some decent posts.

when installing wideband and using the 0-5v output for factory o2 signal connection what should you do with with the 3 extra wires. form the factory connection like heater wires.

 

umm well when i installed mine i just used 2 wires..forgot which color they were..but the point im trying to get at is there was a positive and a ground...i was told i didnt need the other 2 wires. maybe that helps?

 

red = (+)
black = (-)
blue and white wire is for datalogging. not needed to be connected unless ur going to be datalogging.

wideband should not be hooked up to stock narrowband o2 sensor.

 

sorry, cant you connect the 0-5v wire from the wideband to your factoy o2 signal wire. i assumed so since the factory is 0-5v wire. if so what do you do with the leftover factory heater wires

 

trying to use the wideband signal for the stock computer till i get the stand alone all hooked up

 

there is a 5 volt reference on the wideband though

 

i have the aem instructions that came with it. so everybody that has a wideband has 2 o2 sensors

 

what i think hes trying to ask..is how to use the wideband o2 sensor as a "stock" 02 sensor. so the computer will see the aem 02 sensor signal instead of the stock o2... i think i have that right. hhaa

 

yes thats what im saying. the aem wideband outputs a 5volt signal not just a wideband signal. i want to eliminate the stocker for aem piece. so am i able to do so

 

oh no ****. i coudl have sworn in the manual when i installed mine a while back that it would simulate o2 signal to the ecu. im wrong i guess! haha my bad!

 

so i am not able to connect the 5 volt output to my stock signal wire. other people please chime in

 

it says to an aem ems you can, but doesnt mention anything else.

 

Theres a rotary switch in the back of the gauge that sets it to 1v output which you need for the stock ecu. Check out page 8 of your manual.

 

You do not need the factory heater wires.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i am not able to connect the 5 volt output to my stock signal wire. other people please chime in
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you might be confused, the stock sensor has a 0-1volt output and that's all the stock ECU can handle. A standard wideband has a 0-5volt output.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres a rotary switch in the back of the gauge that sets it to 1v output which you need for the stock ecu. Check out page 8 of your manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to this man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then it will only be reading narrow band though?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it will output a simulated narrow band signal which is 0-1 volt for the stock ECU to read. The reading will still have wideband accuracy.

 

wow rota asking questions
i thought i would never see the day lol

sorry i have nothing to add to the OP
just thought it was funny
Rota is tha man!

 

so basically i can set the wideband to read 0-1V. and still get wideband reading on the guage?

 

thanks to all. my conclusion is im gonna run 2.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically i can set the wideband to read 0-1V. and still get wideband reading on the guage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Outputs 1v, not reads. And yes the gauge is still displaying the more accurate wideband sensor just the controller is outputting the signal in whatever format you want. The stock ecu should function fine with this signal. You can just leave the heater + and - wires alone.

 

so bottom line it is possible to run just the wideband as long as its set for 1v output to your computer

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1984771

 

ok i have one hooked up wich i was told only needs to hook up the power and ground for it to work and the sencer of course the guage came from a freinds car that i seen working but i have the power and ground hooked to the sterio wich was told can be done aswell (im not good at the hole wiring thing) but the guage does turn on but doesnt read anything when the car first starts it reads 14.7 for acouple seconds then counts down then nothing just this (---)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lakai_19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i have one hooked up wich i was told only needs to hook up the power and ground for it to work and the sencer of course the guage came from a freinds car that i seen working but i have the power and ground hooked to the sterio wich was told can be done aswell (im not good at the hole wiring thing) but the guage does turn on but doesnt read anything when the car first starts it reads 14.7 for acouple seconds then counts down then nothing just this (---) </TD></TR></TABLE>

That means your AFR has gone out of the range of the gauge. You are either richer than 11:1 or leaner than 17:1.

 

so wiring it to the sterio can be done?
but i highly doubt im leaner than 17:1 i was just at the dyno awile ago and i dont think they would of left it that lean or rich when tuning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lakai_19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so wiring it to the sterio can be done?
but i highly doubt im leaner than 17:1 i was just at the dyno awile ago and i dont think they would of left it that lean or rich when tuning </TD></TR></TABLE>

It can be wired that way but it could throw off the wideband. I take power and ground directly from the battery to ensure the voltage reading is as accurate as possible. See if that changes the results.

 

ok i will give that a shot thanks