Since all of the people on the forums are inept to posts and i did not want to disturb the flow of Honda-Tech until need be i ask from the pros, so here it goes...

Ok so as the title states im about to begin the h22a1 head on f22b1 block... I was told that i needed this list of items...

h22 head (complete intake manifold,distributer......and so on)
ecu for h22
h22 timing gear
h22 water pump gear
h22 exhaust manifold
custom hard water pipe (have heard you can use the h23 therm housing and f22a1 hard water pipe but not sure)
h22 timing belt
f23 head gasket
h22 intake gasket.......hell just get all the gaskets for the H except for the head
3 peices of wire about 5 foot long and 2 plugs for the VTEC solinoid and pressure switch
and wouldnt be a bad idea to put new bearings in the bottom end(first hand experience)

I was goign to reuse the H22 or F22 water pipe, just heat it up and bend it a little bit to the shape i need... and I have a P28 ECU, I am hoping i can use it as it is for a VTEC Engine.

My question is... What file should i run on the P28 ECU, an H22 file? and also what items of these i can do without... other than the gaskets, because i know the exhaust mani is not needed since they are interchangeable... If anyone has any insight that would be great...

especially about wiring the VTEC solonoid as the F22B1 has VTEC already and the water pump gear because i dont want to have to change them.

OR

I am porting and polishing the head and i am going to sell that with JB Welded bottom end that blew open... hey its a honda block anyways

Thanks alot guys!

 

morning bump

 

Your also going to need h22 head studs and a h22 prelude drivers side motor mount. I also belive your going to just need the upper rad. hose too but im not 100%. And id also reccomend at least putting ARP rod bolts in, especially if your going to rev out to 8000. the stock accord rods/bolts are only rated up to around 7000 rpms.

Id reccomend using h22 pistons and rods too. The pistons especially, your going to be a little low in your CR. Which would be good for boosting it. But bad for NA.

I was going to do the same exact thing as you. But i crunched some number and realized id be spending just as much as a complete long block costs, and id also be suffring from low compression... not good for NA which im staying. So i ended up buying a JDM H22A from Tiger Japanese Auto Parts on thursday night. It only cost me $950 shipped to my door. I am pretty psyced about this swap and cant wait for my h22a to get here!

If you need any more questions let me know.


i also have a h22 head for sale. 250 obo.

Eric

 

I added you on aim.... i picked up the whole engine for $200 i just had to do some cleaning to the head and im fixing up the block and selling it bare. I know i will need studs, but why will i need all that other stuff if i am just swapping headS?


I am going to setup the car to redline at 7000 ... I hear people with the frankenstein go to 7500 and blow ... everyone says they can do it but they always blow...I will eventually go boosted, but for now its staying N/A

Honestly how low will it be the F22B1 is rate at 8.8:1 and H22A1 is 10.0:1 .. I don't get how that can equate to bad.... so what would the end result be?

 

Regardless if your usung a stock p13 ecu/map or not, it will deffinatly effect your performance. Youll lose mostly torque and some top end from the lower CR. But your ecu for a normal usdm p13 is set up for a 10:1 CR and you may run either rich or lean. But running a little lean might be a good thing. USDM p13 ecu's tend to run a tad bit rich. But running to lean cause your motor to go BOOM! You can find some P13 Pistons and rods pretty cheap on here. And also the p13 rods can handle the higher rpms better and longer than the stock. And hey, if your putting new Main bearings might aswell put a couple more bucks into the block eh? And having a high compression boosted motor would benifit you buy spooling your snail up quicker, but it requires more precise tuning and should be tuned with a good dyno tune as opposed to a street tune with a A/F meter. But lower compression will allow for a greater margin of error when tuning it, but will spool the turbo slower than with a stock CR.

Eric