looking for 2 piece stock replacement rotors for theitr
hi, i'm trying to looking for 2-piece stock replacements,
i tried searching but all i see is stoptechs,but they aren't stock replacements but they are a lil wider than it.
and project mu's are a lil out of my price range for rotors
can anyone help me.
trying to find them before i go to the bobs donuts event at thunder hill in 2 weeks
=D all the help is appreciated.
i tried searching but all i see is stoptechs,but they aren't stock replacements but they are a lil wider than it.
and project mu's are a lil out of my price range for rotors
can anyone help me.
trying to find them before i go to the bobs donuts event at thunder hill in 2 weeks
=D all the help is appreciated.
Why do you want 2-piece rotors as opposed to standard cast blanks, especially for a track event where they will likely be severely worn anyway?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want 2-piece rotors as opposed to standard cast blanks, especially for a track event where they will likely be severely worn anyway? </TD></TR></TABLE>
My thoughts exactly
My thoughts exactly
2 piece rotors are lighter. I cant speak for the OP's intentions but if I was looking for a 2 piece stock rotor, I would want to for less rotational mass.
To the OP, you may want to check with fastbrakes.com They may have a solution for you. BTW, 2 piece rotors arent cheap either!
To the OP, you may want to check with fastbrakes.com They may have a solution for you. BTW, 2 piece rotors arent cheap either!
Less rotational mass and unsprung weight is nice, but for something that's going to get used (up) for a track day, the slight benefits wouldn't really justify the significantly higher cost, IMO.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let him justify the cost.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sublimnal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and project mu's are a lil out of my price range for rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doesnt look like he can, and everyone else is right, they'll get used up, and its definately not worth it IMO if its just going to be same size as OEM, espcially considering the price. Its paying a lot more, for something that you probably wont see any benefit from.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotational Mass is what benefits.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And how much weight per rotor is saved exactly, considering they're going to be the same size as OEM rotors, I cant see how theres a whole lot of weight savings.
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sublimnal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and project mu's are a lil out of my price range for rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doesnt look like he can, and everyone else is right, they'll get used up, and its definately not worth it IMO if its just going to be same size as OEM, espcially considering the price. Its paying a lot more, for something that you probably wont see any benefit from.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotational Mass is what benefits.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And how much weight per rotor is saved exactly, considering they're going to be the same size as OEM rotors, I cant see how theres a whole lot of weight savings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And how much weight per rotor is saved exactly, considering they're going to be the same size as OEM rotors, I cant see how theres a whole lot of weight savings. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There is more weight loss than you'd think (easily a couple of lbs).
And how much weight per rotor is saved exactly, considering they're going to be the same size as OEM rotors, I cant see how theres a whole lot of weight savings. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There is more weight loss than you'd think (easily a couple of lbs).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eksteve »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.tirerack.com/brakes...otors
Hope this helps
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He said stock replacement. These are big brakes and come with clapper brkts. You gotta get bigger wheels for these.
I'd go with STOPTECH. Good quality stuff and they have a 2 pc direct replacement for ITRs. http://www.stoptech.com/user/P...tid=4
I'd call one of their retailers and get a price on replacement discs. They might be cost effective over replacing the whole rotor. Another advantage is they can run cooler than a one piece.
Another mod I'm trying is titanium pad shims. They act as insulators and lessen the amount of heat transfering from pad to caliper piston. Keeps piston dust boots from cooking and the brake fluid cooler.
Hope this helps
</TD></TR></TABLE>He said stock replacement. These are big brakes and come with clapper brkts. You gotta get bigger wheels for these.
I'd go with STOPTECH. Good quality stuff and they have a 2 pc direct replacement for ITRs. http://www.stoptech.com/user/P...tid=4
I'd call one of their retailers and get a price on replacement discs. They might be cost effective over replacing the whole rotor. Another advantage is they can run cooler than a one piece.
Another mod I'm trying is titanium pad shims. They act as insulators and lessen the amount of heat transfering from pad to caliper piston. Keeps piston dust boots from cooking and the brake fluid cooler.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is more weight loss than you'd think (easily a couple of lbs).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couple of lbs per rotor? Thats shocking, if the case.....
There is more weight loss than you'd think (easily a couple of lbs).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couple of lbs per rotor? Thats shocking, if the case.....
I loved my Stoptech 2PC rotors. I ran them for over 20K miles after one started to show signs of a crack. Would I buy them again.... yes!
-Victor
-Victor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want 2-piece rotors as opposed to standard cast blanks, especially for a track event where they will likely be severely worn anyway? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Whoa, slow down. I've got a bit of experience in this area, having gone through almost two dozen pairs of front rotors over the past twenty years of track driving, including one-piece and two-piece rotors.
Rotors don't wear all that quickly. At least, not with the street-track pads I'm using (currently Hawk HP+); maybe it's different if you're using, say, Hawk blues. But just to give you an example, I got almost 10K actual track miles, including a dozen pad changes, on the rear rotors of the NSX before they finally wore down to minimum thickness spec. (On that car, the rears actually do a fair amount of work; even with bigger pads, the rear pads don't last all that much longer than the fronts.) Which shows that rotors last a long, long time before wearing down.
The reason that front rotors need replacement, with extensive track use, is that they crack, a whole lot faster than they ever wear. Cross-drilled, slotted, solid-faced - they all crack, due to the extreme heat buildup on the track, and the repeated expansion and contraction cycles from heating and cooling. Cracks start to appear as weblike stress fractures, and then start to lengthen and widen, usually in a radial direction. When they're about half an inch long, which is about when you can feel them by running the edge of your fingernail along the rotor surface (DON'T do this when they're hot), you need to replace them. You may not notice the cracks when driving on the track; you're more likely to notice them when they're cold, on the street. That's because, on the track, the cracks fill in when they expand with heat; they open up when they cool down.
In my experience, one-piece rotors typically last me around 800-1000 actual track miles, however many events that translates to. Two-piece rotors last about 50 percent longer, 1200-1600 actual track miles, before they, too, eventually crack. The reason they last longer is that they allow the outer "ring" to expand with a flexible attachment to the inner "hat", whereas with one-piece rotors, it's all one piece (duh) that doesn't allow any flexibility. So THAT is the advantage of two-piece rotors: they last longer. If you multiply the dollars and cents, you'll find that the $200-300 two-piece rotors may not be worth it compared with $38 one-piece rotors from Autozone. OTOH if you lose track time because the cheaper rotors start to crack on you in the middle of an event, they might be worth it.
I usually use the Autozone rotors these days.
Whoa, slow down. I've got a bit of experience in this area, having gone through almost two dozen pairs of front rotors over the past twenty years of track driving, including one-piece and two-piece rotors.
Rotors don't wear all that quickly. At least, not with the street-track pads I'm using (currently Hawk HP+); maybe it's different if you're using, say, Hawk blues. But just to give you an example, I got almost 10K actual track miles, including a dozen pad changes, on the rear rotors of the NSX before they finally wore down to minimum thickness spec. (On that car, the rears actually do a fair amount of work; even with bigger pads, the rear pads don't last all that much longer than the fronts.) Which shows that rotors last a long, long time before wearing down.
The reason that front rotors need replacement, with extensive track use, is that they crack, a whole lot faster than they ever wear. Cross-drilled, slotted, solid-faced - they all crack, due to the extreme heat buildup on the track, and the repeated expansion and contraction cycles from heating and cooling. Cracks start to appear as weblike stress fractures, and then start to lengthen and widen, usually in a radial direction. When they're about half an inch long, which is about when you can feel them by running the edge of your fingernail along the rotor surface (DON'T do this when they're hot), you need to replace them. You may not notice the cracks when driving on the track; you're more likely to notice them when they're cold, on the street. That's because, on the track, the cracks fill in when they expand with heat; they open up when they cool down.
In my experience, one-piece rotors typically last me around 800-1000 actual track miles, however many events that translates to. Two-piece rotors last about 50 percent longer, 1200-1600 actual track miles, before they, too, eventually crack. The reason they last longer is that they allow the outer "ring" to expand with a flexible attachment to the inner "hat", whereas with one-piece rotors, it's all one piece (duh) that doesn't allow any flexibility. So THAT is the advantage of two-piece rotors: they last longer. If you multiply the dollars and cents, you'll find that the $200-300 two-piece rotors may not be worth it compared with $38 one-piece rotors from Autozone. OTOH if you lose track time because the cheaper rotors start to crack on you in the middle of an event, they might be worth it.
I usually use the Autozone rotors these days.
Couldn't have said it any better! Since I cracked one of my Stoptech, I went back to regular rotors. After a couple sessions of HPDE, I've already gone through the fronts. I'll be running the Stoptechs for EXPO!
-Victor
-Victor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotors don't wear all that quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used "worn" as a catch-all phrase to include cracking (most common, as you stated), excessive wear due to aggressive track pads, etc.
My point was simply that for a wear item that is going to be "abused", it's difficult to justify the additional cost of upgraded 2-piece rotors over something like the inexpensive Duralast rotors.
As you and others stated, 2-piece rotors can offer advantages, but as a simple "upgrade" for someone who is equipping his car for a track day on a budget, the money could be better spent elsewhere.
I used "worn" as a catch-all phrase to include cracking (most common, as you stated), excessive wear due to aggressive track pads, etc.
My point was simply that for a wear item that is going to be "abused", it's difficult to justify the additional cost of upgraded 2-piece rotors over something like the inexpensive Duralast rotors.
As you and others stated, 2-piece rotors can offer advantages, but as a simple "upgrade" for someone who is equipping his car for a track day on a budget, the money could be better spent elsewhere.
no-one's mentioned airflow.
aftermarket perfomance rotors flow a lot more air through them (for cooling) than stock one piece blanks.
may not be an issue for light cars.
aftermarket perfomance rotors flow a lot more air through them (for cooling) than stock one piece blanks.
may not be an issue for light cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by texrex2002 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no-one's mentioned airflow.
aftermarket perfomance rotors flow a lot more air through them (for cooling) than stock one piece blanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How so? Define "a lot more."
aftermarket perfomance rotors flow a lot more air through them (for cooling) than stock one piece blanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How so? Define "a lot more."
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