i have a 92 civic hb si 5speed and i realized a few days ago that my reverse lights weren't working.
both bulbs are fine and the "back-up light" fuse is fine.
i figured it'd be the reverse switch on the transmissions.

i tested for continuity and the 'switch' has a connection when in reverse, and none when not.
doesn't that mean the switch is working properly?????

the other end (from the 'switch' into the firewall) always has continuity regardless of which gear im in.

it SEEMS as though there's isn't a problem at all but im still getting no lights...

am i doing this wrong? or does anybody else have any other suggestions????

thanks in advance!


UPDATE!!

so i decided to check the back since the front side seemed fine...
i unplugged the bulb socket and probed the plug (green/black wire, lead power) and found that it had about 10v. good.
so i tried to power the bulb from the plug (bypassing the socket) and no light. bad.
the weirdest part is that when the bulb is not connected, i get the 10v, but as soon as i touch it to the bulb, it drops to 0v.

any ideas?



Modified by mister.wong at 10:10 PM 1/25/2008

 

are you sure both bulbs are fine?

 

Did you check the actual sockets?

If they're good, replace the bulbs. If they're still not working, replace the fuse. The bulbs and fuses are cheap fixes and don't always look as bad as they might be (bulbs especially).

 

bulbs and fuse good. i checked them with an ohmmeter...
haven't tested the sockets.. but the part that frustrates me is that the 'switch' is working properly, and the other end (yellow and black/green wire leading to the fuse panel > sockets) show continuity, so doesn't that make the whole circuit closed and functional!?

this is gay...

EDIT:
so i jumped the circuit with power, and no lights...
does that mean there's an open circuit somewhere?


Modified by mister.wong at 4:23 PM 1/24/2008

 

ttt
UPDATED!
I WANT MY LIGHTS BACK!

 

firts you should be getting 12 at the bulb not ten and the next thing i would do is check the ground it should be ZERO from bulb ground to chassis ground.

 

i know it should be 12v... but im getting a reading of 10v...
and the ground is good. there's continuity from the plug ground with the chassis...

wat i meant by it going back to 0v was that i tested for +/- voltage on the plug BEFORE i attached the bulb and it was about 10v... after i attached the bulb and checked for +/- voltage again, it was at 0v...

 

i know what your saying what i was suggesting is that you do not use an ohm test with a multimeter you need to do a voltage drop. if you are getting 12volts to bulb and ground and bulb are good. the bulb WILL light. the reason i suggest ground check is sometimes corrosion or otherwise bad ground wire may occur invisible to the naked eye. the way you need to check it is by putting those wires under an electrical load. remember if there is resistance you will lose voltage on power side and gain voltage at ground side. remember ground wire should always read approx. ovolts.

 

oooooooooh i gotcha!
i'll check it out tomorrow.
thanks for the idea! =D i'll let u know wat happens.