Hi, so i have a honda that wont start....The issue is that it wont give a spark...

Now i have the wiring diagram of the car, and i checked a couple of things, and i know its not the ignition switch, nor any fuses and whatnot....

Now on the actual distributor assembly i checked for power coming from the ignition switch and i get 12v coming in, and thats where im stuck because my next step would be to check the crank sensor (CKP) for a signal, but the wire colors dont match up from the diagram i have to whats actually in the car...does any one know off hand what i should test? what the wire colors are??

thanks for any help-info....

Hers a pic for some faster clicks:

 

bump: so no body has ever needed to test one of these?

 

how about the coil/igniter?

 

coil is a common is with hondas I would start there and then the Ignitor, someone should be able to give the testing procedure for the coil and ignitor, you will need a multimeter

gl

 

Just try swaping a distributor with a buddy.That will tell you if yours is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ698 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just try swaping a distributor with a buddy.That will tell you if yours is bad.</TD></TR></TABLE> +1 Thats what I would do, or just go buy one if it still isn't the problem just return it.

 

Ok so i've swapped distributor assembly with a buddy and still no spark....

Does any one know what pin on the computer sends the signal to the distributor assembly?

EDIT: and does anyone know what else could be causing my car not to give a spark other than the dizzy? I have a remote car starter module, could this be the cause of the no spark? It normally doesnt let the car crank but i have it by-passed so i can crank the car, but could it be preventing spark??

 

did you have the dizzy wire in the correct spot? and also, did you set the #1 cylinder to tdc and the rotor to #1? i'd check timing first..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Datphan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you have the dizzy wire in the correct spot? and also, did you set the #1 cylinder to tdc and the rotor to #1? i'd check timing first..</TD></TR></TABLE>


dizzy wire in correct spot? what do you mean by this? and you dont need to put cylinder number 1 on tdc as the dizzy only fits in 1 place meaning it always know where it it is, the honda systems are not reversible..

And even if it were , i would still get spark, it would just be way off, but the issue is that i have no spark what so ever

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xcelorator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so i've swapped distributor assembly with a buddy and still no spark....

Does any one know what pin on the computer sends the signal to the distributor assembly?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

In other words what im asking here is : Is there a wire i can jump from the ECU to the dizzy to bypass any possible connection failure between the ecu and the dizzy? ( cut wire, corrosion, etc)....thanks for any help

 

just your distributor wires.. sorry for the confusion.

well i was helping my friend last week and he said that he had swapped dizzy to see if his car starts.. sadly it didnt. so i checked the timing and found out that his rotor is 180 off. set car at tdc, changed the rotor. and it fired right up. im not sure whether or not the honda system is true but it doesnt hurt to try it. ?

 

check to see if you are getting fuel. if you are not getting spark and fuel then it may be the main relay. If the main relay goes out, you will still have ign. power at the black/ yellow wire at distributor, but the ecu will not be turning on and sending the signal to the distributor.

Hook up a test light to the pos and neg on the coil (with cap off) and have someone crank the engine and see if the light flashes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAMOTORSPORTSUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check to see if you are getting fuel. if you are not getting spark and fuel then it may be the main relay. If the main relay goes out, you will still have ign. power at the black/ yellow wire at distributor, but the ecu will not be turning on and sending the signal to the distributor.

Hook up a test light to the pos and neg on the coil (with cap off) and have someone crank the engine and see if the light flashes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea this seems to be the next logical step, where is the main relay exactly? under the hood or under the dash?, and is there a way to test the relay itself?

 

the main relay is under the dash near the fuse box. (basically above your left knee) The main relay is actually two relay's in one, so bench testing it is possible, but rather cumbersome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAMOTORSPORTSUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the main relay is under the dash near the fuse box. (basically above your left knee) The main relay is actually two relay's in one, so bench testing it is possible, but rather cumbersome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok so i've tested the main relay, and it works perfect, (and damn it sux testing a relay outside when its -20 degrees....) Now i also checked the wiring harness and i was missing a 12v signal with key on.

After a little more checking i realized that the fuse that was responsible for sending this 12v was removed and was replaced with the feed wires for my remote starter module....now I have no way of testing my remote starter module because i dont have the slightest clue on how it works lol....(after market peice of crap) , so my next logical step would be to simply unplug the feed wires and put a fuse back in there correct?

Any other places where i could be having a no start issue on this car? Sorry for all the questions im just not a big honda guy ( i own 5 VW's and have owned over 12 in my life) and this is my first honda lol....

 

well if you cant find the wiring for the crank sensor, a good way to know it the crank and cam sensors work, is have a buddy crank the car, while its cranking, use a long flathead screwdriver as a pickup. place the tip on an injector, and the handle against the nub of your ear where the hole of your ear starts, listen for the click click of the injector. these working depend on the crank and cam sensor, just like ignition. so if it is clicking, that says those sensors are not only good but the signal is going to the ecm and being processed and output. i would rip the car alarm out of there first becuase those throw anybody through a loop. and before you listen to the injectors tryit on another car to know what injectors sound like for sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xcelorator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i've tested the main relay, and it works perfect, (and damn it sux testing a relay outside when its -20 degrees....) Now i also checked the wiring harness and i was missing a 12v signal with key on.

After a little more checking i realized that the fuse that was responsible for sending this 12v was removed and was replaced with the feed wires for my remote starter module....now I have no way of testing my remote starter module because i dont have the slightest clue on how it works lol....(after market peice of crap) , so my next logical step would be to simply unplug the feed wires and put a fuse back in there correct?

Any other places where i could be having a no start issue on this car? Sorry for all the questions im just not a big honda guy ( i own 5 VW's and have owned over 12 in my life) and this is my first honda lol....</TD></TR></TABLE>
worth a shot, what's the worst that can happen. Nothing? you've got that covered all ready.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
worth a shot, what's the worst that can happen. Nothing? you've got that covered all ready.</TD></TR></TABLE>

boom problem solved, removed the remote starter module, and the anti-theft module wiring from the fuse location, inserted fuse, used my Faithful Volkswagen as a boost car (battery was dead from all the cranking) , and Vroom!! eureka, the honda lives again....just goes to show how aftermarket is not the way to go lol....

thanks honda tech guys for your help , it was my second time on this forum and seems i may be sticking around