Car: 89 CRX
Front Brakes: ITR sized (Prelude VTEC redrilled 4x100 rotors with Accord wagon calipers)
Rear Brakes: Integra DA
Proportioning valve: DA 4040


I'd like to shift some braking power to the rear wheels since the fronts are locking and the rears aren't.

I've been digging around and found a 4020 CRX Si Prop valve. I wonder if that would help.

I've been toying with the idea of drilling out the "jet" sizes, incrementally, on the prop valve to gain some more flow to the rears.

Another idea, the one I'll probably go with, is either a rotor swap or a caliper swap.

I'm thinking of swapping to ITR rears but the extra weight of the bigger rotors is a big down side.

I'm thinking of running EP3 caliper on the rear since it has a bigger piston.

Has anyone here ever swapped in a bigger rear caliper from a Prelude Si or an RSX/EP3?

There's a little voice in the back of my mind saying a bigger caliper will require more rear brake fluid so it'll do even less work with the available fluid.

I dunno, does anyone have any ideas?

I don't want to hack in an adjustable proportioning valve because it is my street car and it needs inspected once a year.

 

brake pads

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brake pads</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

brake pads w/ a layer of grease

I'll be different and say tires. Also rear brake lock up is 100 times more dangerous than front locks. Trail braking + rear bias =

 

What pads are you using front and rear?

 

heh. adding more rear brake on a 90" wheelbase car....thats brillant.
feel free to add more rear brake (pads would be the easiest) but your gonna hate it. the car is gonna be so dam squirley in the brake zones. especially if your on r-comps and realy braking to the limit. but, like i tell everyone, do what you want.

ps-i have the same brake set-up and gt-sports were too much rear brake for me. im down to axxis ultimates and will go to stockers next (like everyone else) and my abilities can be vouched for by others on this board. im not blowing smoke up your ***.

 

He's not blowing smoke up your ***

 

What pads do you guys recommend? I agree with the better tires thing too. I need to get something though that is good all year round, with all the rain and snow we get in this area.

 

I'm running Legend GS brakes on the front of my sol with the stock drums in the rear. I had planned on swapping them out for discs, so I put in an adjustable prop valve. Honestly, I really like the setup as is. Once it was dialed in, it has worked great for me. Everyone has their different driving styles, so if you can, adjustable prop valve is the way to go. Find what works for you. You will also find that if you're on a hot dry track, it will be different than a wet auto-x course. Plus they're cheap...

 

You haven't mentioned the pads you have right now.

While it's not a CRX, my "EG" put 16 flat spots in a rear tire in just half a day with GT-Sports on factory calipers and 11" rotors. I thought I'd want the bigger brakes to match the fronts, but, I've learned that it's just not necessary.

 

Funny how that works out...

Turns out we do know something, huh?

 

&lt;-----smacks forehead

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ps-i have the same brake set-up and gt-sports were too much rear brake for me. im down to axxis ultimates and will go to stockers next (like everyone else) and my abilities can be vouched for by others on this board. im not blowing smoke up your ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've run both the ultimates and stockers in the rear and I'd stick with the ultimates if I were you. I'm currently running Cobalt XR2s in the front and Ultimates in the rear and the balance is good. The problem with the stock pads is that the balance is great for the first 2-3 laps, then they really fade bad and put a lot of extra stress on the fronts, which then also start to fade and boil your fluid. With the Ultimates in the rear, the balance stays much more consistant (they still go off some, but less and much later) and you don't end up over working the fronts as much. What front pads are you running?

 

i'm on ht-10s and 11" front
im gonna wait till i get some sessions in on the new shocks and see if they fix some of my braking inconsistancies (previous shocks were well passed blown).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm on ht-10s and 11" front
im gonna wait till i get some sessions in on the new shocks and see if they fix some of my braking inconsistancies (previous shocks were well passed blown).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah ... I've driven with HT-10s and I'd have to say that IMHO (not trying to start any wars here) they are significantly inferior to my XR2s. They don't bite as well, they don't hold as well, they don't wear as well, and they hurt the rotors more. The only thing that I thought they did better was modulate, but that's probably because they weren't clamping as hard. Again, that's just my opinion based on my own empirical data.

Personally, I'm really happy with the XR2s. I was running the Cobalt Spec VR's previously (which I also thought were better than the XP-10s) and these XR2s work just as well as the VRs hot, even better cold, and last even longer. They are expensive, but I have 4 weekends on mine and I'd say they have ~50% of the useable pad material remaining.

Edit: Oh yeah ... and one of those weekends was a 90 minute "enduro".

 

good to know. i was on VRs till they ran out. then i was on spec-bs till the new stuff came out. but i ran out of pad before hand so i went with ht-10s. ill probably try the new cobalts once all my ht-10s are done or BHPs.

 

Yeah .. I've only heard good things about BHP, but haven't tried them myself yet.