which K series to go with ?
i am considering the K swap for my 88 hatch but i have heard alot of different things about witch K motor to choose from, there is the K20a2, the K20a3 and the K24 series just to name a few, from what i have heard here on honda tech the a3 is pretty much a dud, but why? and also from what i hear you can put the K24 head on the a2 but i am not sure , can any one fill me in a little cause i am kinda in the dark on the K motors.
They say the k20a3 is a dud b/c it's more of a fuel efficient motor than a power making one. You can still make power from it, just different approach needed, i personally wouldn't bother with it.
I think you have your k24 head on the a2 backwards, k20a2 head on a k24 block = frankenstein
if the 88 hatch is anything like the 88 crx... then the k24 motor is too tall for the engine bay, so you'd need to cut it or go custom. I think with the k20a2 you still need to shave part of the hood down.
My personal preference, in stock motor form, is the k20a2 or the tsx k24a2, too expensive, go with an accord/crv motor (k24a3/4) and later go the route you mentioned of the k20a2 head.
Make note that hybrid and hasport (and avid although not popular) make mounts for the swap, but none will work with a k24 transmission, only the k20a's...
There's lots more to it than that, but things to look into i guess.
I think you have your k24 head on the a2 backwards, k20a2 head on a k24 block = frankenstein
if the 88 hatch is anything like the 88 crx... then the k24 motor is too tall for the engine bay, so you'd need to cut it or go custom. I think with the k20a2 you still need to shave part of the hood down.
My personal preference, in stock motor form, is the k20a2 or the tsx k24a2, too expensive, go with an accord/crv motor (k24a3/4) and later go the route you mentioned of the k20a2 head.
Make note that hybrid and hasport (and avid although not popular) make mounts for the swap, but none will work with a k24 transmission, only the k20a's...
There's lots more to it than that, but things to look into i guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kevinoneill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They say the k20a3 is a dud b/c it's more of a fuel efficient motor than a power making one. You can still make power from it, just different approach needed, i personally wouldn't bother with it.
I think you have your k24 head on the a2 backwards, k20a2 head on a k24 block = frankenstein
if the 88 hatch is anything like the 88 crx... then the k24 motor is too tall for the engine bay, so you'd need to cut it or go custom. I think with the k20a2 you still need to shave part of the hood down.
My personal preference, in stock motor form, is the k20a2 or the tsx k24a2, too expensive, go with an accord/crv motor (k24a3/4) and later go the route you mentioned of the k20a2 head.
Make note that hybrid and hasport (and avid although not popular) make mounts for the swap, but none will work with a k24 transmission, only the k20a's...
There's lots more to it than that, but things to look into i guess.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you thats very good advice, i know i can find an a3 for kinda cheap and i was wondering why, is it fuel effecient cause of the tune in the computer or is it in the design of the head or something? also wouldnt a k20 head on a k24 block render vtec almost useless since the k24 is not a high revving motor, similar to putting a b18 head on a b20 block?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.k20a.org</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man i actually didnt know this site was around, that awesome a whole site dedicated to one motor
I think you have your k24 head on the a2 backwards, k20a2 head on a k24 block = frankenstein
if the 88 hatch is anything like the 88 crx... then the k24 motor is too tall for the engine bay, so you'd need to cut it or go custom. I think with the k20a2 you still need to shave part of the hood down.
My personal preference, in stock motor form, is the k20a2 or the tsx k24a2, too expensive, go with an accord/crv motor (k24a3/4) and later go the route you mentioned of the k20a2 head.
Make note that hybrid and hasport (and avid although not popular) make mounts for the swap, but none will work with a k24 transmission, only the k20a's...
There's lots more to it than that, but things to look into i guess.
</TD></TR></TABLE>thank you thats very good advice, i know i can find an a3 for kinda cheap and i was wondering why, is it fuel effecient cause of the tune in the computer or is it in the design of the head or something? also wouldnt a k20 head on a k24 block render vtec almost useless since the k24 is not a high revving motor, similar to putting a b18 head on a b20 block?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.k20a.org</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man i actually didnt know this site was around, that awesome a whole site dedicated to one motor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d-series-buildup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am considering the K swap for my 88 hatch but i have heard alot of different things about witch K motor to choose from, there is the K20a2, the K20a3 and the K24 series just to name a few, from what i have heard here on honda tech the a3 is pretty much a dud, but why? and also from what i hear you can put the K24 head on the a2 but i am not sure , can any one fill me in a little cause i am kinda in the dark on the K motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
other way around, we take the k24 blocks with k20 heads, the a2 heads breathe nicely, the tsx is the same setup as a crv block with a k20a2 head, BUT with a limted vtc movement of 22 degrees.
easy modifications to go are the k20a2 oil pan balencer shaft removal idea, and the k20a2 oil pan (stiffer, aluminum pan, etc).
other way around, we take the k24 blocks with k20 heads, the a2 heads breathe nicely, the tsx is the same setup as a crv block with a k20a2 head, BUT with a limted vtc movement of 22 degrees.
easy modifications to go are the k20a2 oil pan balencer shaft removal idea, and the k20a2 oil pan (stiffer, aluminum pan, etc).
I have a k20a im just gonna go stock, but I do have swap headers fuel rail and euro accord intake manifold.. not planning on a build up yet.. But what does everyone think I should do?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mean Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a k20a im just gonna go stock, but I do have swap headers fuel rail and euro accord intake manifold.. not planning on a build up yet.. But what does everyone think I should do?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop hi-jacking other peoples threads is probably a good thing to do first
Stop hi-jacking other peoples threads is probably a good thing to do first
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mean Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a k20a im just gonna go stock, but I do have swap headers fuel rail and euro accord intake manifold.. not planning on a build up yet.. But what does everyone think I should do?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you should sell it, or trade for my b16 EJ8.
i think you should sell it, or trade for my b16 EJ8.
i am gunna street drive it , but it still needs to be fast as hell. my last build i said i was gunna make a street car was a 95 impala ss, it wound up being a fully tubbed and stripped 10 second car with a full tube chassis and 24inch wide slicks, but i still drove it on the street.
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