I need more downforce (aerodynamic experts please)
well, i now have some problems with my 2nd gen CRX
finally got the car running on 14.5lbs of boost, and its decently fast, but the handling is complete crap at higher speeds. anything past 135 feels like i am lifting off the ground. car is lowered on skunk 2 coilovers (not sleeved crap) has aftermarket sway bars, and upper strut bars (no ebay **** here)
basically, i just need information on how to keep my car glued to the ground without majorly changing the body
ie. i like my stock look, no ricer wing for me (even if it is functional)
finally got the car running on 14.5lbs of boost, and its decently fast, but the handling is complete crap at higher speeds. anything past 135 feels like i am lifting off the ground. car is lowered on skunk 2 coilovers (not sleeved crap) has aftermarket sway bars, and upper strut bars (no ebay **** here)
basically, i just need information on how to keep my car glued to the ground without majorly changing the body
ie. i like my stock look, no ricer wing for me (even if it is functional)
first of all....... this car was not ment to travel at speeds higher than 135. Unless you are racing at a track, your a retard for doing that on the street.
next: due to drag, this car lifts no matter what you do. If I wanted better control for speeds under 120 i would:
1. use wheel spacers and studs (widens the car out and lowers center of gravity)
2. cut holes in bumpers
3. make custom roll pans for car bottom.
4. use splitters on front bumper
HAHA this thread makes me laugh!
BTW your coil overs suck. Use the tein ss-p edfc
or PIC's brand, those are the best ive seen or used.
next: due to drag, this car lifts no matter what you do. If I wanted better control for speeds under 120 i would:
1. use wheel spacers and studs (widens the car out and lowers center of gravity)
2. cut holes in bumpers
3. make custom roll pans for car bottom.
4. use splitters on front bumper
HAHA this thread makes me laugh!
BTW your coil overs suck. Use the tein ss-p edfc
or PIC's brand, those are the best ive seen or used.
Go post in the road racing forums. To achieve the results you want at the speeds you go it won't be cheap (and believe me when I say you don't want to cheap out on something that keeps you planted to the ground at speeds in excess of 135 mph in a sub-2000 pound econobox).
Btw, you'll need that ricer wing but then again it wouldn't be rice if it were functional now would it?
Btw, you'll need that ricer wing but then again it wouldn't be rice if it were functional now would it?
front splitter
flat bottom
1/8 - 1/16inch toe-in all around
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. use wheel spacers and studs (widens the car out and lowers center of gravity)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd try the opposite. try bigger offset tires because with a wide track the car becomes more darty especially at high speed and small road irregularities (like most runways)
softer springs might help, but will probably hurt you launches.
please remember, the CRX wheelbase is 2300mm it has never been designed to be stable at speed.
p.s. you're on a runway for crist sake
what's wrong with taking off
flat bottom
1/8 - 1/16inch toe-in all around
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. use wheel spacers and studs (widens the car out and lowers center of gravity)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd try the opposite. try bigger offset tires because with a wide track the car becomes more darty especially at high speed and small road irregularities (like most runways)
softer springs might help, but will probably hurt you launches.
please remember, the CRX wheelbase is 2300mm it has never been designed to be stable at speed.
p.s. you're on a runway for crist sake
what's wrong with taking off
What is the ultimate goal for this car? Or are you just going to run it on the runway and that is all? Is this also a street driven car?
The most effective way to get down force on the nose of the car is a splitter. If you make it look at ricer that is not our fault there are several way to create a splitter that enhances the look of the car.
You're not really giving annoy enough info to help you. Also if someone offers help don't blindly reject it.
The most effective way to get down force on the nose of the car is a splitter. If you make it look at ricer that is not our fault there are several way to create a splitter that enhances the look of the car.
You're not really giving annoy enough info to help you. Also if someone offers help don't blindly reject it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">front splitter
flat bottom
1/8 - 1/16inch toe-in all around
</TD></TR></TABLE>
?? Toe IN up front makes most cars darty as hell even at low speed. How does it help at high speed? I want to learn something.
I agree about toe-in in the back though, and a front splitter and plate over the bottom are good starts too. This might be a good question for the drag race or roadrace forums.
I hope you have a cage and harness and you are wearing a helmet. Good luck.
flat bottom
1/8 - 1/16inch toe-in all around
</TD></TR></TABLE>
?? Toe IN up front makes most cars darty as hell even at low speed. How does it help at high speed? I want to learn something.
I agree about toe-in in the back though, and a front splitter and plate over the bottom are good starts too. This might be a good question for the drag race or roadrace forums.
I hope you have a cage and harness and you are wearing a helmet. Good luck.
Trending Topics
well, i hope i don't insult you in some way, but my butt and all the people i know say that toe-in makes a car stabilize itself in a straight line.
1/8 toe out makes great turning in, but get somewhat unstable above about 100MPH
my car is setup that way and it's much more nervous than a friends civic which has loads of toe in. In his car above 100 I can drive with one hand on the wheel. and doing this in my car at suck speed is a recipe for disaster.
1/8 toe out makes great turning in, but get somewhat unstable above about 100MPH
my car is setup that way and it's much more nervous than a friends civic which has loads of toe in. In his car above 100 I can drive with one hand on the wheel. and doing this in my car at suck speed is a recipe for disaster.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, i hope i don't insult you in some way, but my butt and all the people i know say that toe-in makes a car stabilize itself in a straight line.
1/8 toe out makes great turning in, but get somewhat unstable above about 100MPH
my car is setup that way and it's much more nervous than a friends civic which has loads of toe in. In his car above 100 I can drive with one hand on the wheel. and doing this in my car at suck speed is a recipe for disaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
amazing, absolutely complete opposite of what is ran in the atv racing world for high speed stability and quick turning, and even a good friend that raced stock cars for years and did quite well, and now races fourwheelers claims the opposite. anyone else back this up that it is different for cars. I dont know how it would be but i need a good education today. I am not saying anyone is right or wrong here, i would just like more input.
1/8 toe out makes great turning in, but get somewhat unstable above about 100MPH
my car is setup that way and it's much more nervous than a friends civic which has loads of toe in. In his car above 100 I can drive with one hand on the wheel. and doing this in my car at suck speed is a recipe for disaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
amazing, absolutely complete opposite of what is ran in the atv racing world for high speed stability and quick turning, and even a good friend that raced stock cars for years and did quite well, and now races fourwheelers claims the opposite. anyone else back this up that it is different for cars. I dont know how it would be but i need a good education today. I am not saying anyone is right or wrong here, i would just like more input.
this car is a DD, but also an autocross, roadrace car. the only reason i want top speed is because i have a running bet ($2000) that i can not reach 160mph in my little crx, and i am by no means trying to die for that kind of pocket change
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gator88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
amazing, absolutely complete opposite of what is ran in the atv racing world...</TD></TR></TABLE>lets not ruin the man's thread as we're getting offtopic.
a quick google for "toe-in toe-out" reveals a lot of info and among others this:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html
PM me if you want to continue this discussion without disturbing other people's threads.
amazing, absolutely complete opposite of what is ran in the atv racing world...</TD></TR></TABLE>lets not ruin the man's thread as we're getting offtopic.
a quick google for "toe-in toe-out" reveals a lot of info and among others this:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html
PM me if you want to continue this discussion without disturbing other people's threads.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0rabrit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, i now have some problems with my 2nd gen CRX
finally got the car running on 14.5lbs of boost, and its decently fast, but the handling is complete crap at higher speeds. anything past 135 feels like i am lifting off the ground. car is lowered on skunk 2 coilovers (not sleeved crap) has aftermarket sway bars, and upper strut bars (no ebay **** here)
basically, i just need information on how to keep my car glued to the ground without majorly changing the body
ie. i like my stock look, no ricer wing for me (even if it is functional)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Build a flat underbody with a 10 to 12 degree diffuser with four fences or so at the back. This will reduce the inherent lift your car generates due to its profile (i.e. winglike). This underbody will also - if properly constructed - reduce some of the drag due to the reduction or elimination of under body obstruction to the high speed air flowing under the car. You will also need to change your ride height to maximize this underbody flow velocity.
This will keep your car's basic shape without adding a ricer wing.
finally got the car running on 14.5lbs of boost, and its decently fast, but the handling is complete crap at higher speeds. anything past 135 feels like i am lifting off the ground. car is lowered on skunk 2 coilovers (not sleeved crap) has aftermarket sway bars, and upper strut bars (no ebay **** here)
basically, i just need information on how to keep my car glued to the ground without majorly changing the body
ie. i like my stock look, no ricer wing for me (even if it is functional)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Build a flat underbody with a 10 to 12 degree diffuser with four fences or so at the back. This will reduce the inherent lift your car generates due to its profile (i.e. winglike). This underbody will also - if properly constructed - reduce some of the drag due to the reduction or elimination of under body obstruction to the high speed air flowing under the car. You will also need to change your ride height to maximize this underbody flow velocity.
This will keep your car's basic shape without adding a ricer wing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whiteknightef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. use wheel spacers and studs (widens the car out and lowers center of gravity)
2. cut holes in bumpers
3. make custom roll pans for car bottom.
4. use splitters on front bumper
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0rabrit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1: how does that affect downforce
2: explain in more detail please
3: already have those
4: ricer, dont want protruding objects on my car
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Build a flat underbody </TD></TR></TABLE>
apparently he already has that...... this forum needs rolly eyes to really express my reply to this guy
a wing is ricer, a splitter is ricer, your body is stock and you come boasting about havign the best suspension money can buy and you ask what can be done to make your complete stock bodied crx be stable at 160mph??? i have a tip for you kid, body kits and big wings and diffusers werent thought up by 12 year old kids who dreampt of one day driving a geo metro with intake header exhaust and 18" chrome rims.
youve shot down every single thing these people have suggested calling it all "ricer" stuff
full underbody tray, front lip/diffuser, canards or whatever those things are called, and a wing with your car dumped on the ground. also you want to make sure you actualy have quality tires that are going to be safe at that speed, and you want to make sure your gearing can actualy theoreticaly go that fast.
on OP
1. use wheel spacers and studs (widens the car out and lowers center of gravity)
2. cut holes in bumpers
3. make custom roll pans for car bottom.
4. use splitters on front bumper
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0rabrit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1: how does that affect downforce
2: explain in more detail please
3: already have those
4: ricer, dont want protruding objects on my car
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Build a flat underbody </TD></TR></TABLE>
apparently he already has that...... this forum needs rolly eyes to really express my reply to this guy
a wing is ricer, a splitter is ricer, your body is stock and you come boasting about havign the best suspension money can buy and you ask what can be done to make your complete stock bodied crx be stable at 160mph??? i have a tip for you kid, body kits and big wings and diffusers werent thought up by 12 year old kids who dreampt of one day driving a geo metro with intake header exhaust and 18" chrome rims.
youve shot down every single thing these people have suggested calling it all "ricer" stuff
full underbody tray, front lip/diffuser, canards or whatever those things are called, and a wing with your car dumped on the ground. also you want to make sure you actualy have quality tires that are going to be safe at that speed, and you want to make sure your gearing can actualy theoreticaly go that fast.
on OP
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MOREJDMTHANYOU »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
apparently he already has that...... this forum needs rolly eyes to really express my reply to this guy
a wing is ricer, a splitter is ricer, your body is stock and you come boasting about havign the best suspension money can buy and you ask what can be done to make your complete stock bodied crx be stable at 160mph??? i have a tip for you kid, body kits and big wings and diffusers werent thought up by 12 year old kids who dreampt of one day driving a geo metro with intake header exhaust and 18" chrome rims.
youve shot down every single thing these people have suggested calling it all "ricer" stuff
full underbody tray, front lip/diffuser, canards or whatever those things are called, and a wing with your car dumped on the ground. also you want to make sure you actualy have quality tires that are going to be safe at that speed, and you want to make sure your gearing can actualy theoreticaly go that fast.
on OP</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank u just what i was thinking u cant be picky about a awnser to a question jus cause u dont like it 10 points for bringing up tires alot of people 4 get about speed rating on tires one of the most important tings
apparently he already has that...... this forum needs rolly eyes to really express my reply to this guy
a wing is ricer, a splitter is ricer, your body is stock and you come boasting about havign the best suspension money can buy and you ask what can be done to make your complete stock bodied crx be stable at 160mph??? i have a tip for you kid, body kits and big wings and diffusers werent thought up by 12 year old kids who dreampt of one day driving a geo metro with intake header exhaust and 18" chrome rims.
youve shot down every single thing these people have suggested calling it all "ricer" stuff
full underbody tray, front lip/diffuser, canards or whatever those things are called, and a wing with your car dumped on the ground. also you want to make sure you actualy have quality tires that are going to be safe at that speed, and you want to make sure your gearing can actualy theoreticaly go that fast.
on OP</TD></TR></TABLE>thank u just what i was thinking u cant be picky about a awnser to a question jus cause u dont like it 10 points for bringing up tires alot of people 4 get about speed rating on tires one of the most important tings
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Credit to Lo-Buck EF
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You took the words right out of my mouth....
Credit to Lo-Buck EF
</TD></TR></TABLE>You took the words right out of my mouth....
Making the track wider does not lower the center of gravity - all else equal. Physical entiites within the car or the entire car itself must be lowered to change CofG height. But I do agree that increasing track can aid stability...especially at the end with the most mass...
Toe in has a stabilizing affect since the force acting on the wheels in this orientation converge at some point ahead of the car - poorly described, but they cancel each other out. Toe out can be darty since each wheel is pointed away from the car's centerline - again, over-simplified.
In my experience, dialing in a little toe in in the rear help stability, but also, to help the rear tires to begin to build slip angles more or less in sinc with the front tires.
Bushing deflection or compliance can have a big affect on high speed stability. If you do not want aero aids, perhaps you can look here...
Just another thought...aero as downforce and/or cleaning up a shape that is not meant for high speed can lead you in two different directions. I submit, you have to know what you are working with before you begin any aero modifications. Unforunately, that can be an expensive proposition...unless you own a wind tunnel
Modified by meb58 at 8:19 AM 1/22/2008
Modified by meb58 at 8:19 AM 1/22/2008
Toe in has a stabilizing affect since the force acting on the wheels in this orientation converge at some point ahead of the car - poorly described, but they cancel each other out. Toe out can be darty since each wheel is pointed away from the car's centerline - again, over-simplified.
In my experience, dialing in a little toe in in the rear help stability, but also, to help the rear tires to begin to build slip angles more or less in sinc with the front tires.
Bushing deflection or compliance can have a big affect on high speed stability. If you do not want aero aids, perhaps you can look here...
Just another thought...aero as downforce and/or cleaning up a shape that is not meant for high speed can lead you in two different directions. I submit, you have to know what you are working with before you begin any aero modifications. Unforunately, that can be an expensive proposition...unless you own a wind tunnel
Modified by meb58 at 8:19 AM 1/22/2008
Modified by meb58 at 8:19 AM 1/22/2008
just PM Johnny Mac he knows quite a bit. Go check the thread Kiwi posted about what they did on the special projects integra.
I know to ask them from hanging around sammy rothschild.
I know to ask them from hanging around sammy rothschild.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0rabrit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this car is a DD, but also an autocross, roadrace car. the only reason i want top speed is because i have a running bet ($2000) that i can not reach 160mph in my little crx, and i am by no means trying to die for that kind of pocket change </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does the crx even have enough gear to hit 160mph? Can you find a tire that will fit that can safely handled that?
Does the crx even have enough gear to hit 160mph? Can you find a tire that will fit that can safely handled that?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does the crx even have enough gear to hit 160mph? Can you find a tire that will fit that can safely handled that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No if its a D series you would have to spin the engine up over 9k with 23 inch tire its not possible. And for FOCK sake to the OP I live close to you in Va Beach please do not be so GD sutpid to think you are going to do this on a public street. Just reading this scares me. Only because you say your worried about your saftey for $2000 and if you were to do this on a public road is $2000 worth someone elses life... FYI I have saved this page just in case.
Also if you really have a bet running here is a simple gearing calculator that will answer you questions. http://www.fatboyraceworks.com...are=1 All you need to do is plug in you tire size, Red Line, Final Drive gear and 5th gear #'s and hit calculate/graph it will tell you weather you could even be able to do it also minus (lets just throw a # out there) 10% for drag...
Hope its not a real bet because it looks like you owe your friend $2000 Too bad real life isnt like GT4 or Forza.
Modified by vbspec at 7:24 PM 1/22/2008
Modified by vbspec at 7:26 PM 1/22/2008
Modified by vbspec at 7:26 PM 1/22/2008
Does the crx even have enough gear to hit 160mph? Can you find a tire that will fit that can safely handled that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No if its a D series you would have to spin the engine up over 9k with 23 inch tire its not possible. And for FOCK sake to the OP I live close to you in Va Beach please do not be so GD sutpid to think you are going to do this on a public street. Just reading this scares me. Only because you say your worried about your saftey for $2000 and if you were to do this on a public road is $2000 worth someone elses life... FYI I have saved this page just in case.
Also if you really have a bet running here is a simple gearing calculator that will answer you questions. http://www.fatboyraceworks.com...are=1 All you need to do is plug in you tire size, Red Line, Final Drive gear and 5th gear #'s and hit calculate/graph it will tell you weather you could even be able to do it also minus (lets just throw a # out there) 10% for drag...
Hope its not a real bet because it looks like you owe your friend $2000 Too bad real life isnt like GT4 or Forza.
Modified by vbspec at 7:24 PM 1/22/2008
Modified by vbspec at 7:26 PM 1/22/2008
Modified by vbspec at 7:26 PM 1/22/2008



