I'm in the process of wiring up my LC-1 wideband and had a question about the 2 analog outputs to use. I have the DB digital guage which will use one output and the ECU will use the other one. Here's where I get confused:


6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers and ECUs. If either one or both of
these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows:
Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39AFR.
Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should be grounded at
the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended wiring schematics.


Now in the wiring diagram/manual it shows the analog output #1 going to the gauge and the output #2 going to the ecu. The way I read it is that the analog output #1 is a simulated narrowband signal. So wouldn't it make sense to send that one to the ECU since the ECU can only use/interpret a narrow band signal? Or is output #2 supposed to go to the ECU so that I can get wideband readings off it when I'm tuning with Hondata?

 

You connect them both. The narrow band sensor goes to the gray wire for your stock O2. The wide band sensor goes to the ELD wire (pin D10).

 

Thanks for the reply. The problem is that I'm eliminating my stock O2 sensor altogether and just going to use the wideband in it's place. This way it will still send info to the ECU and allow me to see the ratios on my gauge and hondata when tuning. SO one output is already going to be used to go to the digital guage and the other goes to the ecu.

 

Bump for more input.

 

You can connect either analog outputs to either the ECU or the gauge it doesn't matter since you can program either one of them to a wideband or a simulated narrowband signal with the provided LM programmer app. For example I connected one output to the ECU O2 input and the other to a digital gauge and both signals are wideband.

 

The thing is that I don't have a laptop to connect to it with so for now the settings will stay at the default settings. With the settings the way the are now, I'd like to know how to connect the outputs (which one goes to the gauge and which goes to the ecu). Thanks.

 

It depends on what's your purpose. If you want to run closed loop feed the narrowband signal to the ECU. If you want to be able to tune with Hondata/Crome feed the wideband signal to the ECU (you have to reduce max voltage to 3.8V). If you have a programmable wideband gauge like I do, feed wideband signal to it, if you don't than narrowband.

All in all it doesn't matter which wire you connect to which device, once you'll have your laptop you'll have to program the outputs anyway.

 

I run my car in open loop all the time and want to be able to read the wideband when tuning, through my Hondata S200. My gauge is the red digital db 2" circular one that came with the kit as an option but it is not programmable. So you're saying that I'll have to reduce the voltage to 3.8v to get it to work? I don't recall seeing that anywhere on the instructions... Are you saying there's no way for me to hook this up and run it without requireing a laptop to program it in order to use it? Thanks for your help so far.

 

I wasn't aware of this gauge, this must be a new release. So I looked it up and the manual states that it MUST be connected to analog output2/BROWN wire and the default factory settings MUST be used in order for the gauge to work properly.

As for the other analog output you connect that to the ECU. However, the ECU can read a voltage up to 3.8V. This is a Honda ECU limitation so you won't find this mentioned in the LC1 manual. If you don't want to loose the upper portion of the AFR scale you need to reprogram the max voltage to 3.8V. But since the analog output1 is programmed to simulate a narrowband signal by default you need to reprogram it anyway. Hope this helps.

 

One last question if I may, would you happen to know what pin numbers I use on the ECU would be (P28 ecu) for the + input/analog output connection? Also what pin number would my - input from the ecu come out of to go to ground?

Thanks so much for all your help

 

Tried following this: http://www.lukekailburn.com/lc1.html

 

That's a pretty good write-up. I also have the same wiring configuration.

 

Wow, that is very helpful, thanks very much

 

I wish you were a bit closer, I would definitely lend a hand.

 

 

That's my writeup linked above. If you need any help feel free to pm me

-Luke

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lkailburn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's my writeup linked above. If you need any help feel free to pm me

-Luke</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice write up. I used it for my wideband.

Props

 

yes, a very nice write-up. I am going to add this thread to the faq

the only thing i worry about is running the wideband power source to the ecu power source. Especially if you are running larger injectors where you want the injector drivers to have as much power as possible so fueling doesnt get sloppy. Last thing i would want is to somehow draw so much power from the ecu that it cant function properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lkailburn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's my writeup linked above. If you need any help feel free to pm me

-Luke</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually used a combination of your writeup and the units actual instructions to wire my wideband. My control unit is inside the car, under the center console. I ran my O2 out through the opening in the floor where the cat convertor 2nd O2 sensor would normally go (I removed it since my car was switched over to obd1). All my ground wires are together on one lug run to my thermostat housing and main power is run to another 12v switched source. Your pictures helped a lot and where to put the wires. I installed the calibration button and LED into the glove box to prevent anyone from accidently hitting it when they shouldn't. Looks pretty good so far, haven't finnished yet, just working on it when I have time.

 

glad you guys liked the writeup :-)

-Luke

 

I just got the lc-1 but i having a problem with connecting to the logworks software. It allows me to open the program but it dosen't allow me to select the "program" button to make changes. Also when I open Logworks it shows what com port i'm using but when I select connect it comes up with an error message stating "could not find any real-time data"

I am using firmware 1.10

Help!!!

 

go to your device manager to see what come port you are using and select that in the list of ports in log works.

there is a "program" button in the logworks software, but there is a program button in the LM programmer. Are you sure you are entering log works and not the programmer?

 

yea. under LM programer it lets me change values but the program button is not visible. I have tried all the ports and nothing. I was reading the innovate forums and it looks like this is a common problem with lc-1. The led lights up properly and everything.

Damn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_henrik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't aware of this gauge, this must be a new release. So I looked it up and the manual states that it MUST be connected to analog output2/BROWN wire and the default factory settings MUST be used in order for the gauge to work properly.

As for the other analog output you connect that to the ECU. However, the ECU can read a voltage up to 3.8V. This is a Honda ECU limitation so you won't find this mentioned in the LC1 manual. If you don't want to loose the upper portion of the AFR scale you need to reprogram the max voltage to 3.8V. But since the analog output1 is programmed to simulate a narrowband signal by default you need to reprogram it anyway. Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldn't they both (outputs) have to be programed the same so the gauge and ecu will both read the same AFR's?

 

Nope. The LC1 measures the AFR and outputs the same reading on both analog outputs. What you can program on the outputs is the translation from AFR values to voltages. So what you have to do is to program both the transmitter (the analog outputs of the LC1) and the receiver (the ECU/Hondata) side to the same scaling. But the scaling itself don't need to be the same on both channels.