I'd like to have one for my B16a.



??????????????????????????

 

the only problem with that tool is keeping the valve from moving. if the head is off I use a c-clamp with a piece welded on the swivel pad end. if its on the head and you valves seat well with little leak down that tool would work well. import builders has an example of a simple tool also. you could get that made a any cnc shop for pretty cheap if you gave them the dimensions and stuff.

 

This one is even better. You don't have to remove for each valve.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/...5.htm

 

Ive used this tool many times works like a charm

Thats a good price. **** our shop paid over 200 for it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MADMAX_zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one is even better. You don't have to remove for each valve.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/...5.htm



</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to have one for my B16a.



??????????????????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

that tool would work good but its halfway worthless since you have to unbolt it each and every time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MADMAX_zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one is even better. You don't have to remove for each valve.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/...5.htm



</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the tool i use, you can use it on an assembled motor, off the motor etc. its simple and fairly easy. the biggest problem i have with mine is that the handle isnt long enough. i put another bar on the handle to get the most leverage. plus you really need a second person or the head bolted down if you have some stiff springs. great tool for $70 or so i paid for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MADMAX_zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one is even better. You don't have to remove for each valve.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/...5.htm



</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bought that same exact one from my snap-on guy for $85. It's the best dohc valve tool ive ever used

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Desir Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I bought that same exact one from my snap-on guy for $85. It's the best dohc valve tool ive ever used </TD></TR></TABLE>

and it works with sohc too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to have one for my B16a.



??????????????????????????</TD></TR></TABLE> i got one from ebay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ctr83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i got one from ebay </TD></TR></TABLE>

me too

 

Any guys use the 2nd spring compressor on a 4g63? How does it compare to the miller tool that the factory recommends?

 

I have this tool. Bought it off of ebay. For an unbolted head and stiff springs, it's the best tool ever. You do have to bolt and unbolt but will do 2 valves at a time. I did a set of 16 in about half an hour at the most with an electric impact.

I have used both versions and like them both.

 

we use the snap-on tool almost daily. best money i spent on a valve spring compressor. We also have this big clamp version that replaced our old C-Clamp
its adjustable and it locks when compressed.

 

Both of those seam like a pain in the *** for a head not bolted down to a block.

These are way faster and they keep the valve from pushing down:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MADMAX_zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one is even better. You don't have to remove for each valve.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/...5.htm



</TD></TR></TABLE>

i need to order one of those again. used to have one.

 

once you get everything aligned which is pretty easy to do with just your eyeball they are really easy. the one you show is great but still wont do VS on a car.

the key is making sure your square to the retainer and pulling straight down. if your off just a bit it can be a pain. most of the time there is enough pressure holding the valve that everything slides right into place without a hitch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to have one for my B16a.



??????????????????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

i made my own one of these, then ended up buying this<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both of those seam like a pain in the *** for a head not bolted down to a block.

These are way faster and they keep the valve from pushing down:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i ended up scrapping the other thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MADMAX_zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one is even better. You don't have to remove for each valve.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/...5.htm



</TD></TR></TABLE>

try using that crap for installs on a dual spring setup. its a pain in the ***. its only good to remove them. why bother. a c clamp does just fine

 

I use a channel lock and a magnet... why are you guys spending extra money on a tool that takes longer to use?

 

i use a long socket and a hammer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use a long socket and a hammer
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, been there done that..but thats only good for getting them out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use a long socket and a hammer
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i use, 5lb mini sledge gets the job done everytime.

 

you guys make me sick... lol j/k

 

^^^ thats the same one I use. Buddy has one that looks just like it but is air powerd. alot nicer.

 

Get one of these bad boys.

Snap-On Part #GA318A

 

Same thing i use for non mounted heads. it makes the job easy. we mostly do Nissan heads.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both of those seam like a pain in the *** for a head not bolted down to a block.

These are way faster and they keep the valve from pushing down:
</TD></TR></TABLE>