ive been debating quite some time now on a roller setup but havent really heard that much about them/or that many people using them ,,for the price of them i could buy a nice turbo and make more power ,,anyone care to elaborate on this topic?

 

I was just asking this question about an all motor h22 , there is a HT username Jared on here that uses them in his boosted car i believe.

No info but at least its a point in the right direction

 

There definately a good buy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HR-1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There definately a good buy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would agree if everyone fell into the same case. Before the decision to switch to roller cams yo should ask yourself if you really need to, Roller cams/rocker arms show great strength above 10.5rpm. I'd say that anything below that RPM range your better off just sticking to regular cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's not the only way to go though, I was looking a few other directions as well. But these are also less harsh on cams, as well as proven for high RPM abuse with a big cam.

Although look at others who aren't running rollers, doesn't seem to affect them much lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i know ive been looking into these for 2 seasons now ,lol i just cant talk my self into justifying the price lol,only people ive seen use them where because they messed up their oem cams or rockers and didnt want to pay dealer price on another set ,but none i talked to did it specifically for power .. ,i actually only saw a hand full of people using them and thought they where going to discontinue them,,but i know they are raising the price on them even more soon.i kind of feel like this

 

Stock cams+ stock rocer arms + stock valves + jjspec port job +good springs/retainers + S372=



What I am saying is, spend wisely to make the most out of what you have, then what money you have left over you can buy you some bling that will give you a little more added to what you have.

 

we went with the roller rocker set up on my car primarily for the reliability advantage. high lift cams with real stiff valve springs required for high rpm will wear out the cams and rocker arms rather quickly. didnt hurt being able to run a very aggressive camshaft profile either.

 

what about lets say driving the car to the track[30min] ? and how often do rockers need to be adjusted with these ?i was told bye a very well known head builder that these will not work on the street but yet i know of people that do use them on the street prob free ..im gettin 1/2 and 1/2 on everything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about lets say driving the car to the track[30min] ? and how often do rockers need to be adjusted with these ?i was told bye a very well known head builder that these will not work on the street but yet i know of people that do use them on the street prob free ..im gettin 1/2 and 1/2 on everything</TD></TR></TABLE>

how they work on the street depends on your tolerance to their idle and low engine speed issues.

 

ask yourself this daily/or not if track driven i highly recommend specially at high boost levels which i had not had a chance of doing but we've seen tdautowerkes lay it down
thnk damian for those sexy cams which belong to my buddy now.
i owned a roller rocker setup daily driven for 3months then pulled it a part and sold them to a good friend of mind whos currently building a race car only i recommend.
i ran them at 14 psi on a 82mm ls/v pt67 450 290trq but that was only revin to 9k just cause i didnt trust the oem gsr pump to supply up high but too much noise but nothing compares to it such a whiplash felling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how they work on the street depends on your tolerance to their idle and low engine speed issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i could care less about idle i have 2 american cars with cam lifts in the 700s im not worried about sound i run a open exhaust any way ...whats the low idle speed thing you say ...my tuner will get them to idle and driveable the only thing i hear is that the low end throttle response is just to snappy making it hard to clutch rite...any one with a video of these in a car ?

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/alb...o.flv


you can hear them idle and stuff here. idle speed is ruffly 2k rpm (no iacv)

 

Joe I always liked your coupe. But anyways, I wouldn't ever want to drive on rollers around the street. In my opinion it would be just way to much work. But I'm lazy.

 

just curious as to why you do your dyno pulls in 3rd gear? I noticed that the first pull was in 4th gear, but the others were all in 3rd gear. Does that mean your reading higher whp becuz of the gearing or do you calibrate the dyno so that your seeing the true whp of your car? Is there any advantage to doing 3rd gear dyno pulls? Thanx

 

the first pull was in 4th to get a little heat in the tires.

ever read about how many people break their tranny's on the dyno? ive never had a problem breaking a gear when dynoing in 3rd. also, with the amount of straps in the front and the people standing on the doors, etc.......the tires grow much more in 4th gear and would actually rub on the pinch weld of the car above the tire.

as if dyno'ing a car on slicks isnt scary and dangerous enough--its just makes me feel atleast a little bit safer in 3rd gear.


at those power levels im sure the car is loosing a bunch of power (# that the dyno is showing you) between all of the extra straps, the slicks, and the fact that its doing a burn out lol

 

not sure what grind joe is running, but they all idle pretty similar.
here is mine with a pretty solid 1400-1500 idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMFko4Hf8ts


Modified by Jared at 7:18 PM 1/21/2008

 

i could get my car to start and idle without blipping the throttle at 1200rpms but the car was idling too rough (sounded like it was dropping a cylinder). i bumped it up to 1600rpms and it idles fair for the size of the cams.

 

yea you can get them to idle low but it seems to be pretty inconsistant, and will die if anything changes (i had no IACV) i prefer a high idle and not having to worry if the car is going to stall if the revs drop fast.

also takes a lot of timing at idle to get decent vaccume.

 

i set up a timing "wall" to get the car to idle consistant. but yes i did raise it to keep it from stalling.

 

are you guys running dual roller tips or single roller tips

 

ok so her is where i stand with this .i called ferrera tech for some info on these and they had me dumbfounded when 1 tech said 1 thing and the other tech said the complete opposite lol,i thought i was in the twighlight zone ,,any way tech 1 says go stage 5 ,make sure you get the newer single roller wheel rockers ,,the allmotor cams will work fine with my turbo setup,no modifications need to put the roller setup on your head except spring seating ,etc........tech 2 says we dont make stages,we never had diferent roller wheels single or double,he wouldnt go with the all motor cams go with the smaller cams,the head needs extensive work to get the roller setup to work....lol WTF! im not sure if its because of this b/s h series motor or what but god damn their is so much miss information out their im any help would be appreciated....hoyvay

 

im going to buy these tonite f... it thanx for the help

 

i have #7 grind... seems to work well for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philipwight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have #7 grind... seems to work well for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

custom?

 

INSTALLING TONITE


Modified by h22 civic at 7:48 PM 2/20/2008