After doing some searching around, I've got a few questions here. First of all, I've read that there are quite a few different methods for cleaning up internal parts on the engine. Here's the things that I've read so far:
Pouring fuel injection system cleaners into gas tank and running them through
Removing IACV and cleaning it out with carb cleaner
Pouring Seafoam liquid into the brake booster hose
Spraying carb cleaner through the throttle body and intake manifold with engine running

I know that pouring the stuff in the gas tank will clean out the entire fuel injection system. There's many products used such as BG 44k, Seafoam, and lots of others but these are the two that I know actually work and this is a good thing to do every couple of tanks of fuel. I myself have sprayed de-carb spray through the throttle body and intake with the vehicle running to de-carb these two items and know that it's a good way to clean things without having to tear everything apart. It may not do as good of a job as removing everything and cleaning it with a wire brush and spending a few hours, but it'll do pretty damn good. On my old Cavalier I did the Seafoam liquid in the brake booster hose trick, but wasn't sure if this was a good idea or not. I'm pretty sure it'll get something done, but wasn't sure if you could damage the engine doing this. I've read quite a few threads also about removing and cleaning the IACV with carb spray to clean it out and figured this would be a good idea also. What brand do you guys use for de-carb spray?

 

all the for a question about what brand 2 use, lol

take it apart clean it with brake cleaner n a pick, might as well clean the whole intake including the injectors, put in new o rings on the injectors n gaskets n call it good. hell if u want to take the time gasket match n port the intake manifold

 

2 cans of sea foam

1/2 can into intake via brake booster line

1/2 can in fuel tank

repeat if needed

 

Here's my plan for de-carbing and cleaning everything up:

Pour 1 can of Seafoam into gas tank and run through a full tank of gas
Run 2/3 can of Seafoam through brake booster vacuum line with engine running
Pour 1/3 can of Seafoam into crank case and run for a few miles (short spirited drive)
Pour 1-2 tablespoons of Seafoam into each cylinder through spark plug hole and let set for 15 minutes then run for a few miles (short spirited drive)
Spray Seafoam Deep Creep through the throttle body and intake manifold

After doing all the steps above I plan on changing the spark plugs, fuel filter, and oil. This is what I'm looking to do. I know for sure it's good to use in the gas tank and won't cause problems there. Running it through the brake booster vacuum line won't cause any problems either as long as you don't use a TON of it at a time and let the car take it in slowly. The only thing I'm not quite sold on is running it through the crank case. What are you guy's opinions?

 

Well, I went ahead and followed that list completely. I started off first of all by adjusting the valve lash and changing the valve cover gasket, spark plug oil tube seals, and valve cover grommets. After that I changed the drive belts. Then I started off by spraying the Seafoam Deep Creep down the throttle body with the engine running, making sure to run it through the IACV too. I then stopped the engine and sprayed a bunch of it on the throttle blade, into the intake manifold, and into the IACV and let it sit for 15 minutes. I then restarted the car and burned all that off. I was absolutely amazed how much carbon it cleaned off and how much better it made the car run. After that I started putting the Seafoam liquid into the brake booster vacuum line, adding only about 2 tablespoons at a time and waiting about 10-15 seconds between pours. I didn't get a huge smoke show like most do, but I still got quite a bit. I then took the car out for a drive to rev it up and burn all the Seafoam up, then came back after about 5 minutes of driving. I then pulled the spark plugs, and poured about 2 tablespoons of Seafoam liquid into each cylinder. I then let it sit for 15 minutes, then reinstalled plugs. I also added 1/3 can of Seafoam liquid into the oil and then started the car and took it for a drive, and came back after about 5 minutes. This did an excellent job of cleaning the carbon off the tops of the pistons. I then drained the oil, filled with new, and went for another 5 minute drive. Came back and changed the oil again. The car runs excellent with a smoother idle and a little more low end power. I can't imagine how well the car is going to run in a couple days after I change the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, and coolant flush and fill. I'm much of a fan of Seafoam again, and believe that as long as you use it in moderation, (exactly like I did) that you won't have any problems with messing up your engine. I recommend this to anyone before doing your tune up.

 

Thanks for sharing this! My accord will get this treatment before the next oil change in about 3K miles.

BTW, what is the brake booster line? And is Seafoam locally available or did you purchase it on the net?

 

wow.. good write up.. i was debating on putting the seafoam in the crank case and in each cylinder... but i guess it worked fine for u.. why were u gonna change the fuel filter?? i recently changed out my fuel filter.. u didnt change it because of the sea foam did u??

 

Haha, I guess I never meant for this to be a write up, but wouldn't mind making a better on that wasn't so cluttered and easier to read. I guess I could do a quick one though. I was going to change my fuel filter because it's still got the stock one on it, not to mention that after running the Seafoam through the gas tank I'm sure it's got quite a bit of gunk in the filter. The brake booster vacuum line is the one that leads directly into the brake booster on the firewall from the intake manifold. Seafoam is available almost anywhere. Usually you can pick it up at your local auto parts store for around 6 dollars a can.

 

If you were looking for a complete write up for Seafoaming your car, here it is.

Materials needed:
2 cans Seafoam motor treatment (liquid)
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm
1 can Seafoam Deep Creep (spray)
http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreep.htm

Tools needed:
Funnel
Pliers (pretty much any type will work)
Phillips screwdriver
3/8" ratchet
3/8" ratchet extension
Spark plug socket

This write up is intended for those of you wanting to "Seafoam" (as it's commonly referred to) your motor. This process is used to remove carbon deposits from your throttle body, IACV, intake manifold, intake ports, piston tops, and exhaust ports - basically the entire intake and exhaust system for your vehicle. It will also clean out deposits from your gas tank and fuel lines, as well as cleaning your fuel injectors. As long as you follow the directions closely, you won't have any problems during this process.

Please note - I do not recommend this on very high mileage motors (200k+). Depending on how well your vehicle was taken care of, it's possible that the sludge and carbon inside your motor is all that's holding it together yet. The two vehicles I ran this process on both had around 120k. I didn't run into any problems with this many miles, but I've heard of people with very high mileage motors doing this and having problems with burning oil afterwards. Basically as long as your motor isn't beat to **** and in terrible shape you should be fine.

I started first of all with a full tank of gas and poured one full can of Seafoam motor treatment into the gas tank. I ran through this tank of gas before starting the process listed below.

1. Warm your vehicle up to operating temperature, then shut off vehicle.

2. Remove air cleaner tube to gain access to throttle body plate.

3. Start vehicle and allow to idle.

4. Begin slowly spraying Seafoam Deep Creep onto throttle plate, spraying small amounts every 5-10 seconds. Do not allow vehicle to bog down or die out.

5. Be sure to spray into the IACV which will be small hole just before the throttle plate.

6. Make sure to spray larger bursts onto the throttle plate while revving up the motor using throttle wheel.

7. After using around 1/2 the can, shut car off and soak the throttle plate, IACV, and intake manifold with the Seafoam spray and let sit for 15 minutes.

8. Restart vehicle (will probably be a little harder to start than normal) and allow the Seafoam to completely burn off. Shut car off.

9. Reconnect intake tube, then locate brake booster vacuum line (will be a long black vacuum hose running from intake manifold to brake booster located on the firewall).

10. Use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and pull the vacuum line off the brake booster. Start vehicle. You'll notice the vehicle idling higher and/or have a surging idle.

11. Begin slowly pouring the Seafoam motor treatment into the open vacuum line, pouring in approximately 2 tablespoons at a time. Do not allow motor to bog down or die out.

12. Be sure to rev vehicle up and down while adding the liquid. Do not add too much at a time or you'll run the risk of hydrolocking your motor. This won't be a problem if you stick with the small amounts (2 tablespoons) at a time.

13. After running approximately 2/3 of the can through the system, reconnect brake booster vacuum line and allow vehicle to burn off all of the liquid.

14. Turn off vehicle and let sit for approximately 15 minutes, making sure that it has cooled down throughly (warm to the touch, NOT hot).

15. Remove all 4 spark plugs, then pour approximately 2 tablespoons of Seafoam motor treatment into each cylinder.

16. Pour the remaining 1/3 can of Seafoam liquid into your oil system using the oil fill cap.

17. Let sit for 15 minutes, allowing the Seafoam to soak on top of the pistons.

18. Replace spark plugs and start engine (will be harder to start than normal).

19. Go for a sprited drive, making sure to rev vehicle up and down. Do not drive for more than 5 minutes or lay on the rev limiter during this time.

20. Change oil, spark plugs, and fuel filter.

21. If your vehicle threw a CEL, it's more than likely a code for the IACV or a misfire. To reset it, simply disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes then reconnect it and it should be gone.

Make sure that you change these 3 items after this process. I've seen a lot of people that didn't change their oil and ran the car with for many miles with the Seafoam in it and damaged their motor. This is because the Seafoam cuts through the oil and lowers the viscosity. Like I stated in my steps, I only ran it through the vehicle for less than 5 minutes, allowing just enough time for it to circulate through the system to clean things out and then changed the oil afterwards to remove it from the system. Also as I stated above - do not add too much of the liquid into the brake booster at a time or you run the risk of hydrolocking the motor. I've done this two times now on two seperate vehicles and haven't had a problem. This process works well as long as you do it in moderation.

It's amazing the difference it will make once you burn all the Seafoam off and change the oil, plugs, and fuel filter. It'll make your vehicle idle smoother, run smoother, and gain a slight bit of power all through the RPM range. Obviously you shouldn't be expecting a 20 HP increase, because all this will do is gain you back the HP you've lost due to carbon build up and aging parts.

I hope this clears everything up for anyone wanting to do this. If you have any more questions, feel free to post them.