i just swapped a jdm h22 into my 92 prelude si. it starts right up, idles perfect. only thing is that when i gas it, driving or in neutral, its sounds like a supercharger winding. also when i drive it, i can obviously tell that im not getting all the power out of it.
ive tried tightening and loosening the alternator belt. does nothing. did same to power steering. nothing.
can anyone help. im frickin excited to pound this car but im not getting all the power and the car sounds like its stressing when i gas hard. plus the winding noise.
i got the motor from hmotorsonline and steve assured me the motor is good.

any ideas???
mahalos
rob

 

did you set your timing belt tension properly when you replaced it?

 

nah. i took the motor from the pallet right into the car. never messed with any of the timing. came complete with trans. never took any of it apart.

 

well usually that kind of noise is an indication that the timing belt is either rubbing or is way too tight.

 

so i should take the cover off and check it out? how do i know if its too tight?

 

you should NEVER drop in an engine you don't know the history on without checking the timing belt. When I pulled the cover on my engine from Hmotors, about a third of the belt had worn off due to the tensioner beginning to fail ....Point is, do it when it is out of the car, and 10 times easier to work on.

 

ok. ill check out the timing belt and tensioner. thats what u think it is? thats something i never checked..lol

 

From HMO's website.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22LUDE808 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start up warranty is only valid on USED, JDM & USDM motors and is unconditional when changing the following engine components:- spark plugs, spark plug wires (leads), rotor, timing belt, water pump and tension pulley. All of the previously mentioned have to be changed on JDM & USDM motors to become legible for the 100% start-up warranty.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well i took off the valve cover today to check out the timing belt. its in good condition. no cracks or obvious wear.
the timing belt was sitting on the cam gears, but it was hanging off a little. i looked in the valve cover by where the cam gears are at and i can see marks caused by the timing belt rubbing.
could that be the problem.
also the tension of the timing belt seemed ok. dont really know how tight is too tight or if its not tight enough.
also with hood open and motor running, i push the throttle open and i can hear tapping coming from the valve area.
any ideas??

funny i can swap motors into cars but cant diagnose a problem like this.
whats funnier is this is my 4th swap ive done...
wtf..

 

youre supposed to have an inch of up and down slack on the belt between the cam gears and should be able to turn the belt 90 degrees on the long slack towards the front of the motor. its a pretty good possibility that the belt rubbing on the valve cover is making the noise. I'd suggest changing the timing belt, water pump and switchin over to a manual tensioner while you're at it.

the tick sound is your valves telling you it needs to be adjusted.

 

anyone know a good place i can get a manual tensioner for my h22?
i think my timing belts on too tight. theres less than an inch of slack between the cam gears.
how do i loosen the timing belt a little? and can i do it without messing up the timing?

 

You have an auto tensinor now, so it automaticly tensions the T-Belt.

Honda dealer for the Manual Tensinor

Does your Tbelt squeel when its on?

 

it only squeels when i first start it. after that not really.
wow i cant loosen my timing belt.. lol thats weak. damn h22
how much do the manual tensioners run anyway?

 

yeah, belt can't be loosened without collapsing auto tensioner

to compress the auto tensioner, you need to remove the bolt on the bottom of the auto tensioner, and turn the screw in that is accessible through the hole in bottom of auto tensioner.

i don't think this can be done without removing the auto tensioner. re- installing auto tensioner is FUN with out the tool to hold it compressed, as the auto tensioner is constantly trying to expand

 

if you were to guess. how much would it cost at a mechanic shop to change the timing belt, swap auto to manual tensioner?
or should i just do it myself?
just really hate doing timing jobs..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22LUDE808 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you were to guess. how much would it cost at a mechanic shop to change the timing belt, swap auto to manual tensioner?
or should i just do it myself?
just really hate doing timing jobs..</TD></TR></TABLE>

a lot. just do it yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Infinity_Racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a lot. just do it yourself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

timing isn't that hard to do, but it is time consuming, which means big $$ labor.

The other thing, from my experience... any honda dealership mech's get all pissed and hate the idea of hybrid'ing ANYTHING from other motors. so they'll probably just tell you that you need the auto tensioner.

 

so since i have a 92 lude
with an h22
when i call the dealer to order the part, what do i ask for?
ive ordered parts before. they ask me for what car.
cuz from what i know the h22 doesnt come from factory in the 92 lude. or am i wrong?

 

tell them you have a '93

 

http://www.slhondaparts.com

 

what number am i looking at exactly?
http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...=true

http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...83%29

 

well, if you are looking to do the manual conversion, you will be buying parts off H23.

here is an awesome step by step for tensioner conversion

http://www.collectiveracing.ne...c=9.0

 

thanks for the write up. pics are super helpful too.
i wish i knew about the damn tensioner before i dropped the motor in. kinda sucks, right after i drop the motor in, i find out all this crap about the tensioner.
LOOKS TO BE A VERY HARD JOB WITH THE MOTOR IN THE CAR.
should i pull the motor out to do it, then drop it back in when im done?

 

it is a bit of a PITA, i have done it with the motor in the car. IMO, it still wouldn't be worth pulling the motor to do it tho.

 

A shop will generally charge 400 to 500 just change a Tbelt.

Amd you will probally be paying the shop 2 hours extra labor for the manual tensinor swap.

Unless you have an air supply tank I wouldnt suggest doing it. The harest part you are going to have is that crank pulley bolt. If its not torked on properly you will run into issues down the road.

Getting it off is the real mother effer.