Hey, I'm trying to fix my brother-in-law's '94 Honda Accord. A city bus backed into it and dented his door.


So from these pictures, will the door swap just fine? And does anybody have a guide or special instructions that I may need to do this? It's a Wisconsin winter, I'd like to make it go as fast as possible.

==Pat's Car - Recipient of new door and lights==
http://www.axcessmypics.com/ph...6.jpg
http://www.axcessmypics.com/ph...0.jpg

==Donor Car - At a junkyard, labeled 1993==
http://www.axcessmypics.com/ph...4.jpg
http://www.axcessmypics.com/ph...9.jpg


Thanks for any help you guys can give me!


Modified by ahanix1989 at 9:56 PM 1/24/2008

 

93 and 94 are differenty body styles.

He could use a 94-97

That parts car is a 93

 

Okay, so that door definently won't work? You can tell from looking at it that it's a 93 and not a 94? [They don't always have the right years written on them]

 

That car is definitely a 90-93 and won't fit on a 94-97.

(check out that 3rd piece of glass behind the rear door 94's don't have that)

 

Well, crap. Thanks for saving me the hassle and money.

Do you think it'd be too difficulty to just knock a ton of those dents out of his car, sand it, add some bondo, and paint it? He's trying to start a family, and having a beat-up car doesn't seem to help.

 

Well the front, a heatgun and some gentle massaging will probably pop that out with minimal damage to the plastic on the bumper.

The passenger door, I would imagine pulling it out would work you could probably get 95% of it straightened just from that and use some bondo to smooth.

Alternative is there's not another Pick and Pull near you that will sell that door?

 

I have doors for your car in my impound lot but not sure what shipping would cost to you, I could sell the whole door for around 100 bucks (I'm in new orleans)

 

Unfortunately, I'm up in Wisconsin, so freight shipping would be the only option, and probably too expensive.

I'll have to look at the other cars on the lot.

Are there any platform-shared cars for an Accord? (Like, doors on a Lexus ES-300 will fit on a Toyota Camry XLE)


Again, I can't thank you guys enough for your help

 

I apologize for not being able to "let this go"...
I measure both doors... if they have the exact same dimensions, hinges in the same spot, door striker in the same spot... what is preventing a swap from working?

Or, alternatively, what about this car? Not the right color, but I can always repaint it
http://img413.imageshack.us/my...4.jpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahanix1989 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I apologize for not being able to "let this go"...
I measure both doors... if they have the exact same dimensions, hinges in the same spot, door striker in the same spot... what is preventing a swap from working?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are completely different shapes. It will not work. Even if you were to get it bolted on, it would not close.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or, alternatively, what about this car? Not the right color, but I can always repaint it
http://img413.imageshack.us/my...4.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the door from that car will work.

 

Okay, thank you for your help. I trust you, and I will be out at the junkyard to get the door off the black car as soon as it stops being -28°F outside [Wisconsin sucks, btw]

Any problems I may encounter, or little tricks to getting the door apart, or is it mostly "Remove the door panel, disconnect wiring harnesses, unbolt door hinges, installation is the opposite of removal" ?

 

You don't even have to remove the inner panel.

You will have to take the fender off first to get to the hinge bolts. Remove the spring pin from the checker (tap it up from the bottom with a small hammer), unplug the wiring harness connector, then remove the four bolts from the hinges. Be careful removig the last two bolts - doors are very heavy.

You will probably want to swap the lock cylinder from the old door to the new door. It's a bit of a PITA, but you won't have to carry around multiple keys.

 

Oh yeah, good point. I forgot about the door lock cylinder.

Would a Haynes manual give me detailed instructions with diagrams, in case I can't quite figure it out?

 

Maybe. I've never looked at the Haynes manual for an Accord. The Helm manual already has everything I need.

 

Would a certain tool assist me with removing the fender? Perhaps a specific-sized or style wrench? I'm used to doing work on my full-size Ram Van (exposed hinges, wiring harness inside door rather than inside fender) , so these tightly-built Hondas are a Rubic's Cube to me.

 

 

Seriously, I need to borrow dad's Sawzall to get the fender off? I can see the bolts if I open the door, wouldn't an angled wrench fit?

 

All fender bolts are 10mm. Door hinge bolts are either 12mm or 14mm (I think 12). You will have to remove the side skirt to access the bottom fender bolt, and possibly pull some things from the engine bay to unbolt the front fender stay (it's been a while since I've pulled a door from a '94-97 Accord).

 

Ah crap, of course it's gotta be metric.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahanix1989 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah crap, of course it's gotta be metric.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Metric &gt; SAE.

All you will ever need to work on an Accord (or any Honda) are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 36mm, a #2 Phillips and a #3 Phillips. Very easy. You can take 95% of the car apart with those tools.

 

I agree metric is better (A lot easier to remember "13mm is larger than 12mm" than "5/16 is larger than 1/4")... I especially hate the mental game of "Break every fraction down to x/32, then add 1/32, simplify, see if that's a valid socket size, repeat". but since I usually only work on my domestic truck, I only happen to own a good set of SAE sockets.

I'm sure we have the metric sockets in the basement.... but who knows what size drive and what condition the sockets are.