I live in washington where it rains 24/7 how can i keep all the rain and wet environment from the filter of my cold airintake any ideas?

 

my suggestion would be to either run a bypass or convert it to a short ram. if you cut the pipe, you can re-attach it later with a coupler and clamps to convert it back to a cold air.

 

After seven years, I finally decided to cut my AEM CAI so I'm rockin the short ram for the winter.

 

how would i run a bypass and what exactly do u mean i dont think i understand???

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW


I think you get one that's a quarter inch larger than your intake cause my CAI was 2.75" and I got one that size but it was too small.

 

I dont really see a GREAT benefit on Cold Air Intakes. Run a short ram one... so you dont have to worry about it. Whats 2hp difference going to make anyways.

 

2hp peak is one thing, looking at the overall power curve of a CAI vs a short ram is what makes me stay with the CAI hands down.

OP- You want to not flood your CAI, easy:

1) Don't lower your car some rediculous amount, 1.5-2" is fine IMO.

2) Don't drive your car into large, deep standing pools of water if your car is slammed. Puddles are fine, lakes are not.

3) Don't remove your inner fender liners or engine bay splash guards that shield the CAI filter location from the elements. This is probably the number one reason why people have problems with CAI's and water....that and being stupid.

That's really it. I've said it a hunderd times on here, I've driven with a CAI for 7 years in a very rainy environment and never even came close to a problem. There's no reason why you or anyone else should either as long as some common sense is used.

 

Great thanks for all your help

 

Any other opinions this thread is for a friend and he wants to get as many as possible before or even if he does convert to short ram

 

i have seen heat shields that go around the filter. like this one...

one of these placed well could help to shield water away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExospeedAMcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont really see a GREAT benefit on Cold Air Intakes. Run a short ram one... so you dont have to worry about it. Whats 2hp difference going to make anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>


x2

once you start driving, outside air is flowing into the engine bay anyways. I would say to cut it, and put a velocity stack/filter on it.

 

the velocity stack/filter is also another idea. have seen some good improvements from dyno graphs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chris1741 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


x2

once you start driving, outside air is flowing into the engine bay anyways. I would say to cut it, and put a velocity stack/filter on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Air temps are only one small part of the equation. Pipe length and diameter are more important which is why CAI's out perform SRI's typically throughout the entire rpm range. More average power NOT PEAK is what makes your car faster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Air temps are only one small part of the equation. Pipe length and diameter are more important which is why CAI's out perform SRI's typically throughout the entire rpm range. More average power NOT PEAK is what makes your car faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 3" sr is going to be very comparable to a 3" "cai" as far as overall power and has better throttle response. I too (as well as everyone else) have seen the dyno's your baseing your theory on, and once the car is moving, i dont believe the results are nearly the same.

If you have "flash flooding", as we do here in florida, "common sense" would do nothing for u if u get caught in a sudden downpour.

short ram (preferably 22-23") with velocity stack/filter ftw on the street.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chris1741 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A 3" sr is going to be very comparable to a 3" "cai" as far as overall power and has better throttle response. I too (as well as everyone else) have seen the dyno's your baseing your theory on, and once the car is moving, i dont believe the results are nearly the same.

If you have "flash flooding", as we do here in florida, "common sense" would do nothing for u if u get caught in a sudden downpour.

short ram (preferably 22-23") with velocity stack/filter ftw on the street. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I happen to be refering to my actual experience of testing CAI's vs SRI's on a dynojet 248c of which the results are not posted anywhere on here. I'm not basing my opinion on theory's, I'm basing it on fact and personal experience/testing results. If you understand how intake systems truly work you'll understand that CAI's will have better throttle response over an SRI every time as long as it's designed properly and not some "whale dick" thingy. You'd also know that on a b18c at least, that a longer pipe around 30" or so with a velocity stack on it will outperform an SRI at the dimensions you list.

If you've ever data logged a CAi vs a short ram, you'd also see that the CAI is still the clear winner for air temps when moving or stationary. But as I said already, the cooler air a CAI draws has very little effect on the overall power the intake makes. Again, dimensions is where it's at.

As far as flash flooding goes, I still see it like this. If it looks to deep to drive through and it wasn't there a second ago, I still wouldn't drive through it if it was that deep and there a month ago. Common sense still rules

 

lol ya no **** sense is always best thanks for ur help