My cel light has been on for quite sometime and I confirmed that it is code 67.
I had my cat replaced with a catco 2 1/2" cat. It drove fine for a few months then the cel came one.
The manual says code 67 is bad 2nd O2 sensor or cat efficiency below threshold.

What should I replace or check first?

-Nick

 

Bad cat

 

did the light come on at partial throttle near ~3000-4000 rpm?

 

Willard - Yes I beleive so. It was during acceleration. I assume it was around that RPM.

What would it mean if that were the case?

-Nick

 

on the damn caps filter...

 

not sure what it means... that is when all of mine have come on.

Will
-who is just trying to figure it out.

 

WHAT IS A CAPS FILTER?

SO HAVE ANY OF YOU GUYS THAT BOUGHT HIGH FLOW CAT'S NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THEM? I'M GLAD I DIDN'T BUY ONE

 

It probably means your cat is not getting hot enough due to the high flow. Therefor it is not burning off all that is should.

Craig - Whos got a 2.5 cat and no codes

 

:raises hand:

No codes when I had the Jeg's 2.5" cat.

 

that is what I am thinking... but with a stock cat-back there 'should' be enough heat.

 

So what is the verdicts here? I've got a new o2 sensor so should I replace it? I'll probably get the same cel if its that cat.

Replace the cat? Its only 7 months old.

Would fuel consumption be affected if I drive with the cel on? I think it is because I'm only getting 180 - 200 miles a tank. Thats with non-aggressive driving.

I get alot of soot on my rear bumper. Is there anyway to "trick" the o2 sensor and plug of the o2 bung?

-Nick

 

Funny that yesterday I have the same CEL 67...
so it's time for the CAT to be replaced..

 

its not neccesarily the cat. that is the problem, it could be the rear o2 sensor. replace the rear o2 sensor first and then if the CEL is still on the replace the cat.

 

o2 = $$$$
cat = $$$

 

no soot on my rear bumper. fuel economy did not change. I reset the CLE once I get home.

180-200 =

I get 250+ with city driving.

 

Testpipe & tin foil/o2 faker = ¢

 

oh.. so I should replace the 2ndary sensor first? how much are they?

well... this CAT thingy is not that harmful, right? just causing Pollution?

hm.. I want to have a Test Pipe.. but then I won't pass emission..
what can I do about that. eh?

let's see who can hook me up.......


[Modified by PiYoImuT, 1:21 PM 7/1/2002]

 

Hey guys...Magnaflow/ Carsound rep here.....

The problem could be that the piping on the cat is too big.

A great reduction in back pressure on a car equipped with an OBDII system within the cat, will cause the computer to get confused and throw a code as though the cat is not even working......

This is because the air flow will be so much greater, and the computer will not understand why.

In order to not throw a code, you need to run a cat that uses the same size piping as the stock converter, or you can run a restrictive converter with the bigger piping as there will not be that loss in back pressure.....that is why some converteres will not throw a code with the bigger piping.....

 

last time i checked, sohfast.com had the rear o2 sensor for sale for $75. i know that is going to be alot cheaper than from an acura dealer.

 

sackdz - so just wrap the o2 sensor in tin foil and thats it?? hmmm .... any special way to wrap it? Tighly wrapped, loosely wrapped , anything suggestions?

Since I'm not using a test pipe, I guess the only way to plug up the o2 bung is to use an old o2 sensor. Do they sell plugs for such a thing?

-Nick

 

Or you can run one of these :


I think Black R was making a plug and play version.

 

I can easily make one of these but what I don't understand is the parts list. There are 2 micro farad caps listed but only one is used in the diagram?? Do I need to run the two in parallel?

Thanks
-Nick

 

The parts list says 1 MFD Cap (qty. 2). From what I understand (i did not due the diagram) is that the package contains 2 caps, but only 1 is needed.

Craig - Who has yet to build this thing cause his cat does not throw a code.

 

I think I'll do it tonight or tomorrow night. Minus the pc-board. Looks simple enough. I'll shrink wrap it and tuck it in before the grommet.

DO you think it's get too hot and melt the components?

hmmm..... or should I do it from the ECU side?

I might as well try

-Nick

 

do it close to the plug (not the sensor) that way you can put the components up inside the car and seal it with that little seal that is on the stock wires. That should keep it cool enough to not cause any damange. And yeah, with out the pc-board is the way I would do it. pc-boards take up to much space. Take some pictures and let us know how it turns out