my brothers! miss me? haha

well i need an amp recommendation for two kicker solobaric L7's. they are going into a hyundai sonata and i really dont want to but a yellow top or a bigger alt. if i dont have to. if i do let me know, and please give me some recommendations on that. right now im lookin at the sony 1200 watt amp, maybe 2 of those. thanks guys. i appreciate it.

 

bump?

 

I have never had any good luck with SONY car audio products. If you want a powerful amp that will drive your subs, I would recommend companies/brands such as Precision Power (old school, not the new crap), Zapco, US Amps, JL Audio, etc. It's really up to you if you want to dish out the extra cash for new amp(s) or settle for a good used one found on eBay.

 

well i mean if you can point a couple out i would really like to get one. i havent really looked at higher end amps so im not familiar with them. the ones that you can find in the store and normal ones like the sony 1200 watt amp i have had very good luck with and they seem pretty powerful. so if you list a few on here from ebay that would be great!

 

how about the new kickers?
like this one:http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-7500w...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Need more info, need model number of the L7s, they come in 8", 10", 12", and 15" in both DVC 2 ohm and 4 ohm, what amp you need will depend on the model of L7 you have.
Also the link to the amp did not work. 94

 

12 inch 2 ohm DVC. the link was for the zx kicker 2500 watt amp

and just a side question what does it matter 2 ohm or 4 ohm?

 

I have 2 Profile amps that are cheap and seem decent. I'd go with them over Sony but I have to say I'm kind of a fan of Alpine amps.

 

Id go with a Rockford Fosgate or JL amp over any other. Ive had goo experience with both. If you want a cheaper amp, step it down to an MTX amp.

 

if i run a bigger amp or multiple amps am i going to have to up my alt. or add another battery? dont recommend a capacitor to me since those are junk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and just a side question what does it matter 2 ohm or 4 ohm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

An amp will make twice as much power @ 2 ohms then it will at 4. The way you setup your speakers will determine the load your amp will see. Some amps are not stable at 2 ohms.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i run a bigger amp or multiple amps am i going to have to up my alt. or add another battery? dont recommend a capacitor to me since those are junk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That all depends on how much power you want to push. A second battery will only benefit you when the engine is not running. And FYI, capacitor's are not "junk".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

An amp will make twice as much power @ 2 ohms then it will at 4. The way you setup your speakers will determine the load your amp will see. Some amps are not stable at 2 ohms.

That all depends on how much power you want to push. A second battery will only benefit you when the engine is not running. And FYI, capacitor's are not "junk".</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok well i am either going to get the kicker 2500.1 zx or the 1500.1 zx

and i would think that i would have problems if i dont run a bigger alternator or second battery if i push these hard while the car is running. i dont think the alternator can keep up. and while the amp is not running the alternator will charge the second battery right? it wont harm the alternator or the primary battery if i get a second battery and run it off the first right? please correct me if im wrong. and as for caps please tell me how they are not junk. i talked to an audio specialist at the audio and video expo and he said that all the caps do is hold a voltage off the battery and it can be quickly charged and discharged but it will not help with the lack of power needed to run the amp 100%. this is just what i hear or guess. i dont know this for sure. all i want to do is do it right the first time and have a kickin system. thanks for all your help.

 

OK, your subs are 750W continuous, [RMS] you will need at least 1x1500W RMS into 2 ohms to drive them properly, you will wire the VCs on each speaker in series, [=4 ohms] then wire the subs in parallel, [=2 ohms] called series/parallel, they could also be wire parallel/parallel, but the VCs and the subs are wired in parallel for a 1 ohm load, I do not recommend you do that.

The ZX 1500.1 will make 1x1500W RMS into 2 ohms, however that is at 14.4V, I would go with the ZX 2500.1 and just be careful when setting the gain.
It's better to be overpowered then underpowered

Just did two S12L7 4 ohm in dual slot port box with two JL Audio 1000/1 amps, very loud, upgraded to a 200A alt. and installed a 2 farad cap on each amp, [no caps are not "junk"]

I would definitely upgrade the alt., as mentioned, a second batt. will only give you more play time when engine not running, and install a cap, it will make a bigger diff. then a second batt., [unless you are planning to run the system for long periods of time without the engine running] in which case I would install a second batt. and the caps. 94

 

As I said a second battery will do nothing for you when the car is running. The alternator will do all the powering and should produce more voltage then your battery, thus charging it.

To add a second battery you would need an Isolator. FCM recommends this one. You can't just wire it up like your other battery.

You are gonna want to upgrade your big three (alt to battery cable, battery to ground, and engine to ground).

A high power alt is highly recommended for the setup you want but you can add that down the road if you would like.

A capacitor will not make up for a lack of power but will keep the power consistent if a large draw should suddenly happen and the alt or battery cannot keep the current up. The cap will fill in the hole so to speak and keep the current flowing. Ya know when a hard bass note hits and your lights dim, a capacitor will fill in the sudden demand for current preventing this from happening. In some case more then one cap is required.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, your subs are 750W continuous, [RMS] you will need at least 1x1500W RMS into 2 ohms to drive them properly, you will wire the VCs on each speaker in series, [=4 ohms] then wire the subs in parallel, [=2 ohms] called series/parallel, they could also be wire parallel/parallel, but the VCs and the subs are wired in parallel for a 1 ohm load, I do not recommend you do that.

The ZX 1500.1 will make 1x1500W RMS into 2 ohms, however that is at 14.4V, I would go with the ZX 2500.1 and just be careful when setting the gain.
It's better to be overpowered then underpowered

Just did two S12L7 4 ohm in dual slot port box with two JL Audio 1000/1 amps, very loud, upgraded to a 200A alt. and installed a 2 farad cap on each amp, [no caps are not "junk"]

I would definitely upgrade the alt., as mentioned, a second batt. will only give you more play time when engine not running, and install a cap, it will make a bigger diff. then a second batt., [unless you are planning to run the system for long periods of time without the engine running] in which case I would install a second batt. and the caps. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

so.....could you draw me a wiring diagram? that would be so helpful and appreciated. and also is there a certain gauge of speaker wire and amp wire i should use? and so do i need a 200amp alternator or higher? is there a certain place on the inet that sells good priced universal upgraded alternators? or can i just put a 5 farad cap on there?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so.....could you draw me a wiring diagram? that would be so helpful and appreciated. and also is there a certain gauge of speaker wire and amp wire i should use? and so do i need a 200amp alternator or higher? is there a certain place on the inet that sells good priced universal upgraded alternators? or can i just put a 5 farad cap on there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

(VC=voice coil)(There are 2 on each speaker, IE 2 +'s and 2 -'s)
Speaker one:
+VC1 goes to amp, -VC1 goes to +VC2, -VC2 goes to amp
Speaker two: (same thing)
+VC1 goes to amp, -VC1 goes to +VC2, -VC2 goes to amp

The two +'s (from each speaker) that go to the amp get connected together and the two -'s (from each speaker) that go to the amp get connected together. So you will only use one + from the amp and one -.

See the sticky at the top of the forum for wire sizes.

As stated a cap will not make up for a lake of power, only fill in the "holes" so to speak.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

(VC=voice coil)(There are 2 on each speaker, IE 2 +'s and 2 -'s)
Speaker one:
+VC1 goes to amp, -VC1 goes to +VC2, -VC2 goes to amp
Speaker two: (same thing)
+VC1 goes to amp, -VC1 goes to +VC2, -VC2 goes to amp

The two +'s (from each speaker) that go to the amp get connected together and the two -'s (from each speaker) that go to the amp get connected together. So you will only use one + from the amp and one -.

See the sticky at the top of the forum for wire sizes.

As stated a cap will not make up for a lake of power, only fill in the "holes" so to speak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

alright thank you. the sticky at the top is only for amp wires. im wondering for speaker wires. and also i would like to know where i can find a "cheaper" alternator not necessarily a cheap alternator.

 

Yeah I just noticed that, 10 gauge would be good for a run under 5ft. Not sure on where to get the alt, I see allot of people getting them on ebay.

 

so i can just get a universal one on ebay? and as for min. + max. on the alternator what are the amps i should stay in between?

 

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/supp...d=145

We get most of our alt. from Ohio generator... http://www.ohiogen.com/ I would not recommend eBay alt.

For the subs I would use at least 12ga speaker wire, 10ga would be better.
Power wire needs to be at least 2ga, 1/0ga would be better. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mobile.jlaudio.com/supp...d=145
</TD></TR></TABLE>

GOD that was so much easier... lol
This is how you wire them up:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i can just get a universal one on ebay? and as for min. + max. on the alternator what are the amps i should stay in between?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Adding 70 amps for every 1000 watts is a pretty good rule of thumb. Stock is usually 60amp, so an 120 amp unit would work well for your setup. It should be used in combination with at least a 2 or more farad cap.

I've read some good tings about Iraggi alternator's.
http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-...onics

 

alrighty then. thank you very much for all your help. the system should be going in soon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alrighty then. thank you very much for all your help. the system should be going in soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont you mean i need a 235 amp alternator if i get the 2500 watt kicker amp?

 

If you get the 2500 watt unit you are going to HAVE to turn it down about a 1/3 of the way. Your speakers will only take 1500watts rms combined. An alt anywhere from 120-200 would work fine IMO. 150-160 would be ideal. You gotta realize you are more then likely rarely going to have your speakers pushing that much power.