Rear Lower Control Arms
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From: Cheyenne, WY, USA
Rear Lower Control Arms
Which Rear lower control arms use quality bushing I currently have after market megan ones and the bushings are good for only about a year before they start cracking and going out. Blox maybe???
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (Bakeoff)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM with OEM bushings have never been a problem for me. Replace the bushings and you're set for years.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondastrtracr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which Rear lower control arms use quality bushing I currently have after market megan ones and the bushings are good for only about a year before they start cracking and going out. Blox maybe???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you clock them? You need to clock any non floating bushing...OEM included. Or they will tear. If you didn't clock them, I'm surprised they lasted even a year.
You can either try to buy OEM bushings, or you can buy the whole LCA. They're usually around $50 each from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com depending on your vehicle. OEM quality > aftermarket quality.
yep.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondastrtracr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which Rear lower control arms use quality bushing I currently have after market megan ones and the bushings are good for only about a year before they start cracking and going out. Blox maybe???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you clock them? You need to clock any non floating bushing...OEM included. Or they will tear. If you didn't clock them, I'm surprised they lasted even a year.
You can either try to buy OEM bushings, or you can buy the whole LCA. They're usually around $50 each from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com depending on your vehicle. OEM quality > aftermarket quality.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Jan 2008
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yep.
Did you clock them? You need to clock any non floating bushing...OEM included. Or they will tear. If you didn't clock them, I'm surprised they lasted even a year.
You can either try to buy OEM bushings, or you can buy the whole LCA. They're usually around $50 each from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com depending on your vehicle. OEM quality > aftermarket quality.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm about to replace mine, how do you clock them.
yep.
Did you clock them? You need to clock any non floating bushing...OEM included. Or they will tear. If you didn't clock them, I'm surprised they lasted even a year.
You can either try to buy OEM bushings, or you can buy the whole LCA. They're usually around $50 each from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com depending on your vehicle. OEM quality > aftermarket quality.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm about to replace mine, how do you clock them.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (acmoc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acmoc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm about to replace mine, how do you clock them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tighten the bolts with the car at ride height. You can use a few methods:
1.) Put the car on jackstands
2.) Put the new suspension on but dont tighten the following bolts (go loosen them if you haven't loosened them allready):
Front: LCA to shock, LCA to chassis
UCA to chassis
Rear: LCA to shock, LCA to chassis, LCA to trailing arm, Toe adjuster bolts.
3.) Jack up the LCA at the most outboard point you can get to or jack up on the tire itself (MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE ON!!!!!!!!!!! USE A JACK WITH A LARGE PAD!!!!!). The tire method is a little dangerous, so be careful. Keep jacking it up till the car comes off the jackstand on that corner.
4.) Tighten the bolts for that corner. Example: Right rear corner...tighten the RR LCA to shock, LCA to chassis, LCA to trailing arm, and toe adjuster bolts.
5.) Repeat for all other corners.
OR you can do my preferred method:
1.) Get current ride height measurement while the car is on the ground. Either top of fender well to ground, or top of fender well to hub center. Let's say that the measurement for this example is 14'' from top of the fender well to the hub center.
2.) Find out how much you're going to drop (or raise) the car. Lets say 2'' drop for this example.
3.) Put the car on jackstands, take off old suspension, loosen the bolts mentioned in example 1.
4.) Do not put in the new suspension yet.
5.) Do the math. 14'' is current. You want to drop by 2. 12'' is the desired end height from fender well top to hub center.
6.) Jack up LCA till the hub center to fender well gap is 12''. Tighten the bolts for that corner.
7.) Drop the jack and put the supension in.
There are other methods, but these are the ones I use.
Edit: if you use method 2, you will obviously need to put in the shocks/springs and then clock the shock to LCA bolts afterwards.
Modified by B serious at 2:32 PM 5/5/2008
I'm about to replace mine, how do you clock them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tighten the bolts with the car at ride height. You can use a few methods:
1.) Put the car on jackstands
2.) Put the new suspension on but dont tighten the following bolts (go loosen them if you haven't loosened them allready):
Front: LCA to shock, LCA to chassis
UCA to chassis
Rear: LCA to shock, LCA to chassis, LCA to trailing arm, Toe adjuster bolts.
3.) Jack up the LCA at the most outboard point you can get to or jack up on the tire itself (MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE ON!!!!!!!!!!! USE A JACK WITH A LARGE PAD!!!!!). The tire method is a little dangerous, so be careful. Keep jacking it up till the car comes off the jackstand on that corner.
4.) Tighten the bolts for that corner. Example: Right rear corner...tighten the RR LCA to shock, LCA to chassis, LCA to trailing arm, and toe adjuster bolts.
5.) Repeat for all other corners.
OR you can do my preferred method:
1.) Get current ride height measurement while the car is on the ground. Either top of fender well to ground, or top of fender well to hub center. Let's say that the measurement for this example is 14'' from top of the fender well to the hub center.
2.) Find out how much you're going to drop (or raise) the car. Lets say 2'' drop for this example.
3.) Put the car on jackstands, take off old suspension, loosen the bolts mentioned in example 1.
4.) Do not put in the new suspension yet.
5.) Do the math. 14'' is current. You want to drop by 2. 12'' is the desired end height from fender well top to hub center.
6.) Jack up LCA till the hub center to fender well gap is 12''. Tighten the bolts for that corner.
7.) Drop the jack and put the supension in.
There are other methods, but these are the ones I use.
Edit: if you use method 2, you will obviously need to put in the shocks/springs and then clock the shock to LCA bolts afterwards.
Modified by B serious at 2:32 PM 5/5/2008
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