This spring I'm planning on replacing all of the OEM rubber bushings with polyurethane ones from Energy Suspension and Prothane, etc. I'm going to order them tomorrow but are there any that I am missing?

I'm getting the master kit, the rear trailing arm, and the rear compensator bushings. Is that everything that I need?

Links:

Master Set: http://www.energysuspensionpar...at=21

Rear Trailing: http://www.energysuspensionpar...at=21

Rear Compensator: http://www.energysuspensionpar...at=21

The car is run in SCCA STS so don't recommend spherical, etc. bushings.

 

You already do sway? Also doesn't the master kit come with trailing arm? double check that as i might be wrong, just thought it did for some reason.

 

I thought the sway bar bushings were in the master kit.

I know for sure that the rear trailing arm bushings aren't in the master kit. (I got that from Summit Racing)

 

i think the sway bar endlinks are in the kit but now the actualy bushing that goes through the bar by the d-bracket

you cannot have spherical bushings in sts class?

 

<---looking in energy suspension catalog. the master kit has the end links but not the bar bushings. you will need part # 16.5104 for a 24mm front bar and 16.5116 for the 14mm rear bar. add an "R" after those numbers for red. I just installed those swaw bar bushings last week. roughly 10 minutes for each end and only cost $8 per end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaceMyGhost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the sway bar endlinks are in the kit but now the actualy bushing that goes through the bar by the d-bracket</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure you get those sway bar bushings, they help a lot

 

master set includes everything but sway bar bushings and trailing arm bushings.

which scca event is that?
cost?

im interested..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrDomino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The car is run in SCCA STS so don't recommend spherical, etc. bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

It's just SCCA Autocross, STS is the class of the car (Steet Touring)

http://scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=55

Take a look at that.

 

i just remembered a biggie. Motor mount inserts

they made a Huge improvement on the way my car drives.

if anybody has some extra cash to spend on your teg, i highly recommend considering motor mount inserts and rear trailing arm bushings.

 

how exactly do those work? i was going to probably get hasport mounts next summer..... any input?

 

i have inserts! they work great. it keeps the motor super stiff. also get the lower torque mounts as well!

 

I got the ES rear mount and 2 torque strut mounts and the prothane 2 upper motor mount inserts and the car vibrates pretty good really stiffens up the launch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrDomino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how exactly do those work? i was going to probably get hasport mounts next summer..... any input?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i love my inserts.

you can get a full set of ES motor mount inserts for ~80 shipped. well worth the results IMO

 

quick question before I order anything (I don't want to expletive it up)

For the Front swaybar i want 24mm bushings and for the Rear swaybar I want 13mm (?, i though OEM GSR sway was 14mm), right?

edit: I am going to eventually move to an ITR rear but not right now.

 

GSR rear is 14mm, i just bought some for my GSR. Listed the part number up a little on the thread.

 

You don't want to do the rear trailing arm bushing. The ES poly RTA bushing causes binding in the suspension and makes the rear end very twitchy. This has been discussed to some length in the RR/Auto-X forum. The consensus there is to use a new busing from honda/acura (which are stiffer than they used to be), or get the Mugen hard rubber RTA bushing.

Also, if you street drive the car, you will need to replace all the poly bushings every couple of years, as they wear out faster than the oem rubber bushings.


Modified by mike-y at 6:54 PM 1/11/2008

 

according to energy and prothane they last a life time. my buddy has had bushings on his da for ten years now. and it still handles the same.



ive only had mine for a few months now. dam bushings feels so stiff.

 

I have seen otherwise (cracking, deformation, and general wear). but most of the people I know track their cars, so the bushings take more abuse.

 

mike-y

Do you recommend buying Mugen bushings for anything else? Also, is it safe to assume that the Mugen hard bushings are still non-metal bushings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrDomino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This spring I'm planning on replacing all of the OEM rubber bushings with polyurethane ones from Energy Suspension and Prothane, etc. I'm going to order them tomorrow but are there any that I am missing?

I'm getting the master kit, the rear trailing arm, and the rear compensator bushings. Is that everything that I need?

Links:

Master Set: http://www.energysuspensionpar...at=21

Rear Trailing: http://www.energysuspensionpar...at=21

Rear Compensator: http://www.energysuspensionpar...at=21

The car is run in SCCA STS so don't recommend spherical, etc. bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>


DO NOT DO THE BIG REAR TRAILING ARM POLYURETHANE BUSHING!! It will not let the suspension articulate properly. It will cause a loss of control. There's a reason why it's not included in the master set. I think it's only for stricly drag racing trailer car applications.

Why polyurethane? You dont like your teeth/kidneys? Instead of driving a car, why not just drive a skateboard with an engine? lol sorry. I hate polyurethane.

 

Mugen hard bushings are a harder durameter rubber, and are not metal. They are very good, but they are also expensive. The newer rear trailing arm bushing from honda is almost the same as the mugen piece though, so you can't go wrong with either.

Poly is fine for things like swaybar bushings/mounts, and shock mounts, since those locations are easily replaceable, but otherwise, I'd be carefull about installing them in critical places of suspension movement, because when they do start to wear, it will tend to cause bad handling traits. and I know its a huge pain to press in a new set of bushings.

I heard that ITR bushings are stiffer than regular integra bushings, so you may want to check those out too. Just cross check the part numbers, to make sure they are indeed a different part number than a regular integra.