sohc a6, stock block. im at 12 psi right now. this weekend ill be installing a 3 bar. i wanna be around 15-16 psi and see how it does. its a 57 trim t3to4e turbo, right now my timing ret is .75 per psi, and car runs a tad rich also , but making a jump like that on stock block will i need to retard more timing or should i just try it as is and see if it doesnt detonate or have any probs and go from there?

 

add some fuel too

 

15-16psi on a 57 trim (on a B series anyway) will net you somewhere around 360-375whp. I'm not sure how long a stock SOHC will last with anything but a spot-on tune...

 

with that psi i would imagine him to be around 300whp-315 whp depending on the aggressiveness of the tune

 

I personally dont think its smart to run that much boost on a stock single cam block. Unless of course you dont want to keep it for much longer or plan on rebuilding it soon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolnG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally dont think its smart to run that much boost on a stock single cam block. Unless of course you dont want to keep it for much longer or plan on rebuilding it soon. </TD></TR></TABLE>

single cam blocks are cheap as dirt... who cares.... turn it UP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

single cam blocks are cheap as dirt... who cares.... turn it UP</TD></TR></TABLE>

lmao x2 FTW!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

single cam blocks are cheap as dirt... who cares.... turn it UP</TD></TR></TABLE>

x3 Turn it up!!!!

 

yeah i'd have to say X4 if its not your daily driver which im assuming its not

 

wont last long. do it at the track.

 

i will be doing this soon but on a y8 and a 50trim t3/t4.

Only things i have in the engine are arp headstuds and new headgasket.

I'll let u know how it goes

 

local guy here went 11.9@117 with the 50trim@16psi on his stock z6 w/ arp's. ex coupe i believe.

 

Turn it up+++ it must be a good motor, i means its held at 12psi thats pretty good++

 

i did turn it up. runs good. added a tad of fuel and made timing .80 retard per psi.

 

try 1*/lb. you can ALWAYS add more. play it conservative b/c you will be pushing it. IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with that psi i would imagine him to be around 300whp-315 whp depending on the aggressiveness of the tune</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or nowhere close to that.

I have a deep seated love for D16, but anytime I have somebody bringing me one to tune it's always a mishmash of Y8 adjustable camgear on an A6 block with Z6 lower cover and D15Z1 crank pulley aka a bunch of incompatible **** cut on different indexes that everyone thinks is fine because it's D-series and it bolted together. Freaking headache to sort out, but they run awesome when they are dialled in.

SOHC do interesting things that make them as easy to tune as they are volatile setups... Pay attention to the coolant temps at the start of a pull and where the temps climb to immediately after. I've had a couple cars whose plugs read great, made great power, yet would make the same or a little better power and generate/retain less heat as I took even more timing out of them.

Anything that doesn't correctly control ignition timing shouldn't be used to push limits on a SOHC without racegas; I'm completely out of the loop on where Crome or Hondata stands in the last 6-9 months, but I wouldn't care to try it on pumpgas unless the car was running Neptune, eCtune, or a full standalone that isn't based on a Honda ECU. .80 deg/psi is probably different for the OP than it is for me, but with eCtune + ignition corrections disabled I found best safe power on a 292 whp Z6 last week by starting off with a 1.5 degree/psi retard and ended up adding 2 degrees past 14 psi. Expect the ideal numbers generated with any of the other Honda ECU based solutions to differ, so take ANY timing NUMBER advice you get with a grain of salt, but if you are talking about .80 deg/psi on Crome as it stood a year ago I know you won't have an engine for very long.

I really advise dyno time for bigger power D16. Everything else about them is so inexpensive you can drop $2-300 on dyno time without blinking, be able to pay full attention to datalogs and what the vehicle is doing, learn something about the car, and know that your car is right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

SOHC do interesting things that make them as easy to tune as they are volatile setups... Pay attention to the coolant temps at the start of a pull and where the temps climb to immediately after. I've had a couple cars whose plugs read great, made great power, yet would make the same or a little better power and generate/retain less heat as I took even more timing out of them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

VERY true

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so take ANY timing NUMBER advice you get with a grain of salt, but if you are talking about .80 deg/psi on Crome as it stood a year ago I know you won't have an engine for very long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, JD not know something? (I kid!)

Crome still uses the hidden retard, but there's add-in code to disable the previously unknown lower-limit on ignition retard. In other words, you were limited to 15* near redline, which is bad news for a SOHC. Make sure you add it in there, assuming you have Crome.

As for the setup, I've seen stock SOHC VTEC's do low 200's from 7-10psi on a 57 trim, and built SOHC VTEC's do mid-high 300's on pump gas with that turbo. Assuming its a stock cam, I wouldn't expect much over 300whp with 16psi. I also wouldn't expect it to last very long w/o doing lots of testing with timing & a det can. Even if the motor is a gem, detonation WILL destroy it in short order.

BTW I think .80 deg/psi in Crome is too aggressive. I'd take it down a little, and manually remove some from the 12-16psi columns and work your way up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crome still uses the hidden retard, but there's add-in code to disable the previously unknown lower-limit on ignition retard. In other words, you were limited to 15* near redline, which is bad news for a SOHC. Make sure you add it in there, assuming you have Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet, now they need to disable the upper limit on timing advance so that big bore engines like NA H22 don't lose 8-10 whp due to inability to advance timing enough.

 

H22's are crap engines anyways so who cares!

 

Since I have to deal with them against my will I like to be **** and make sure they run as best as possible before their stupid oilling system auto-Darwinates or the transmissions attempt to join their DSM soulmates in heaven.

 

i use zdyne not chrome ..

 

I have a friend who campaigned a ZDyne Gold long after it ceased to be the "cool" thing to run. I have no idea the quality of it's ability to control ignition timing, which is predominantly an OBD1 ECU concern that came to light in the last year or two. The friend in question was running an 84mm LS, which is the single most detonation indifferent engine ever made, so I really can't speculate with any authority on how well it controls timing.

The person who's tuned the most ZDyne of anyone I know would be John @ LHT, his username here is CRVRX. Send him a PM and ask, I know he'd be who I pester if I had a question about ZDyne.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try 1*/lb. you can ALWAYS add more. play it conservative b/c you will be pushing it. IMO </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm learning here so sorry for the dumb question... is .80* retard per psi less timing than 1* or vice versa?

I'm thinking that .80 is more timing than 1 full degree since you're using the key word "retard"?

 

dont think to hard, 1* is grater then 0.80*. jst try it in crome and you'll see.