Best LCA out???
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 406
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From: Long Beach, California, United States
I was planning on buying some LCAs but dont know which to buy. I searched on omni, megan, blox but just heard mixed reviews about all of them. Anyone know any other brands??? or have any reviews about the 3??? thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doubleshotz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM 
Best cost, quality, and performance for non-race cars.
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Definitely the best LCA available, even for race cars.

Best cost, quality, and performance for non-race cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely the best LCA available, even for race cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doubleshotz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM 
Best cost, quality, and performance for non-race cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never understood this whole fancy color lca craze.
I can understand if your car is a model who's lca's didn't come with the swaybar endlink hole...but man...why sacrifice the quality that comes from the factory lca and bushings.
Them cheapo's with the trashy bushings wouldn't last a couple months on my car during the solo season.

Best cost, quality, and performance for non-race cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never understood this whole fancy color lca craze.
I can understand if your car is a model who's lca's didn't come with the swaybar endlink hole...but man...why sacrifice the quality that comes from the factory lca and bushings.
Them cheapo's with the trashy bushings wouldn't last a couple months on my car during the solo season.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk_eg4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM OR F7 nothing else...</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2....
x2....
OEM, even if you went with a harder rubber bushing and stayed with OEM. Aftermarket lower control arms are mainly bling and nothing else. You be far better off spending the bucks you saved (and a few more) on a lighter set of wheels if you want to reduce unsprung weight. OEM is best.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meb58 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My vote, OEM with stock or Mugen bushings. Sometimes, those nice aluminum arms do not hold up so well during off track or on track excursions...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I totally agree that oem is best, BUT, do you have any proof at all for the above statement?
I totally agree that oem is best, BUT, do you have any proof at all for the above statement?
The statement was a simple gesture to the OP to take care when selecting a component based upon looks over function - not that the OP is concerned about looks only. But, I have experience in other applications and often, the yield point of a billet aluminum arm - generally speaking - can be lower than that of a OEM steel arm with exstensive R&D behind it... and I did write sometimes on purpose. My statement was meant as a simple cautionary trigger, nothing more.
Any opinions on Skunk2, and them using FEA analysis on their LCAs?

What about the bushings they use? This is what a representative had to say about them: "All Skunk2 LCA's come with 3-piece Polyurethane bushings that allow the arm to pivot freely, as opposed to other manufacturers arms that are hard rubber and need to twist when the arm pivots, which can lead to tearing."

What about the bushings they use? This is what a representative had to say about them: "All Skunk2 LCA's come with 3-piece Polyurethane bushings that allow the arm to pivot freely, as opposed to other manufacturers arms that are hard rubber and need to twist when the arm pivots, which can lead to tearing."
rubber bushings are in my opinion the best way to go since these allow the suspension to articulate the way it was designed. If you follow the proper control arm installation procedure - only perform final torqueing with the weight of the vehicle on it's wheels - rubber bushings will not tear.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PuroMotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Almost all of race cars retain their stock LCAs ...drivers dont think they are necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not necessarily the reason.
The main reason that you don't see them on most race cars is because they're prohibited by rules in many classes. Other lesser reasons include the need to adhere to a specified minimum weight, the need for maximum durability and wide parts availability at minimum cost, and the simple fact that there are much more important things to spend money on to improve the car.
That's not necessarily the reason.
The main reason that you don't see them on most race cars is because they're prohibited by rules in many classes. Other lesser reasons include the need to adhere to a specified minimum weight, the need for maximum durability and wide parts availability at minimum cost, and the simple fact that there are much more important things to spend money on to improve the car.
I have SRR on my car and they have proven to be good for me but I dont race my car. If I was going to be tracking my car I would pick up a set of ITR LCA's like I had with my last suspension. They are very beefy compared to the factory civic units and are pretty inexpensive.
Sorry, but I had my SRR back then with mr Tien Flex and comtech's rear swaybar kit and the hole on the LCA that connected to the end links from the sway bar got enlarged...cheap stuff
. Skunk 2 2nd gen LCA looks good
Modified by abs at 2:22 PM 1/25/2008
. Skunk 2 2nd gen LCA looks good
Modified by abs at 2:22 PM 1/25/2008



