Found a JDM accord sir brake proportioning valve on ebay. I want more rear brake bias, will this help me? The original plan called for a proportioning valve from a drum brake accord, but it will not hook up properly in my 4th gen. The car's balance under heavy braking is very unstable and i feel that a little more rear brake could help. Any ideas weekend warriors??

 

I have no idea if that prop valve will change the bias or not, but I think I would try something like Wilwood adjustable prop valve that would really help you get it how you want.

Do you have good brake pads and fluid? Good tires?

 

Why would you want more rear bias? That makes the car even more twitchy under braking.

Generally you can adjust brake bias adequately for a street car by changing brake compounds.

On my track car, I run fairly aggressive front brake pads with fairly mild rear pads. Some people I know run street pads on the rear, even! Any more rear brake bias, and the car feels twitchy under braking.

I'd suggest installing some more aggressive front pads with some mild rear pads (OEM, or Hawk HPS), then see how it feels.

 

at the absolute least, deasent tires. OE pads with brembo blanks up front. the rear is an OE on OE setup. Its fresh DOT 3 fluid. I'll have some ATE Super Blue before long though. My father had a 96 impala with disc brakes in the back and he ordered a new proportioning valve for a Caprice drum set up or something and it made a world of difference. Got a link for an adjustable valve?

 

I agree^^^^^ Try a more aggressive pad and see how that feels,something with more bite will give u the feel u are looking for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92bb2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Got a link for an adjustable valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Google brought up a few:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/product1526.html

http://www.wilwood.com/Product...x.asp

The last time I saw one on a Honda he had to use adaptors to get the OE brake lines to bolt into it but that's no big deal really. I would also consider 117s advice before you spend all that time and $$$ on prop valves and such.

 

Keep in mind that a prop valve will not increase line pressure, so if you plumb it into the rear brakes, it won't give you the rear bias that you're looking for. Plumbing a prop valve to the front brakes seems to be a very, very bad idea.

I still don't get why you'd want more rear bias. Maybe your car is set up for massive understeer?

 

[QUOTE=117]Why would you want more rear bias? That makes the car even more twitchy under braking.
QUOTE]
the idea is this: with more rear brake, the rear end will squat a bit keeping the car more level and not overloading the front brakes as it seems to do now. This what we experienced in my fathers impala. I plan on running a Tociko Illimina package in a few months and know that'll help tremendously. Just doin some research ahead of time for alternative braking solutions.
Another factor for this research/solution is this: the front brakes lock rather quickly IMO. Even on gripppy surfaces and pretty good Kumho's...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep in mind that a prop valve will not increase line pressure, so if you plumb it into the rear brakes, it won't give you the rear bias that you're looking for. Plumbing a prop valve to the front brakes seems to be a very, very bad idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would think you would remove the stock prop valve and replace it with the adjustable one so you could move the bias anywhere you want...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92bb2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the idea is this: with more rear brake, the rear end will squat a bit keeping the car more level and not overloading the front brakes as it seems to do now. This what we experienced in my fathers impala. I plan on running a Tociko Illimina package in a few months and know that'll help tremendously. Just doin some research ahead of time for alternative braking solutions.
Another factor for this research/solution is this: the front brakes lock rather quickly IMO. Even on gripppy surfaces and pretty good Kumho's...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I find it interesting that your experience with the OEM brake bias is completely opposite of anyone I've ever met that has tracked or road raced a Honda.

An Impala and Prelude are completely different as the weight distribution on the Prelude is much more nose heavy.

I take it that you do not run ABS?

 

Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking. Using two prop valves in series is a very, very bad idea. I guess how it would feel would depend on the slope of the prop valve after the knee point. If it's drastically different than the OEM prop valve, it could make matters even worse.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would think you would remove the stock prop valve and replace it with the adjustable one so you could move the bias anywhere you want...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

no the abs is still on board and works properly... Your right about the whole Impala vs. Prelude thing too. This was just an idea or theory rather that I had and apparently its ***-backwards. lol Some EBC's with powerslots up front and an OE on OE in the back sound ok for an aggressively driven daily? Or hawks? And which compound do i want? Brake dust and noise are not factors.

 

If you're running ABS, how can you tell that the fronts are locking before the rear?

I'd stay far far away from EBC pads. I've never seen anyone that had a good experience with them.

For mostly street driven, I'd do Hawk HPS front pads and OEM rear. Or for something slightly more aggressive (and will dust more), Hawk HP+ front and HPS rear pads.

I'd just use Autozone Duralast rotors or Brembo blanks.

 

you get grab and release sensation in the front of the car in conjunction with a second party's visual confirmation that the fronts are locking and releasing. I know THAT problem can be fixed with better rubber. I was just hoping a little more fluid to the rear would take a bit of a load off the fronts? Get where I'm coming from with that? Got a special place with good deals on brake products?

 

locking and releasing... sounds a lot like anitlock brakes working properly to me

 

I've got an S model Lude, so no ABS, I have always thought that the fronts lock up too early compared to the back too. Even in the snow, I have to make an effort to lock up the rears. I will be trying a different pad combination before I do anything as drastic as a prop. valve though

and by the way, a drum brake Prop. valve will have lower line pressure to the rear brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92bb2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=117]Why would you want more rear bias? That makes the car even more twitchy under braking.
QUOTE]
the idea is this: with more rear brake, the rear end will squat a bit keeping the car more level and not overloading the front brakes as it seems to do now. This what we experienced in my fathers impala. I plan on running a Tociko Illimina package in a few months and know that'll help tremendously. Just doin some research ahead of time for alternative braking solutions.
Another factor for this research/solution is this: the front brakes lock rather quickly IMO. Even on gripppy surfaces and pretty good Kumho's...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm assuming by "good kuhmos" you mean SPT ,711 or 712. They all suck in the traction department. Better tires would be your best upgrade.

As far as slotted rotors go i would stay away from them unless you have some massive discs, like 13" plus. I know someone is going to say why put brakes that big on a lude, and thats not what im saying at all. I tried slotted rotors on my S4, they completely suck. They are loud , stop like **** when cold or hot and just have horrible pedal feel.

When it comes to your average sized brake disc i think the surface area is very important and slotted rotor are just not nessicary. My S4 has phenominal brakes, 4 piston calipers 4 pads per caliper 13 inch rotors in the front. I noticed a huge difference with the products i chose.

if i didnt drop 400 dollars into rotors and pads which i hate i would go back to oem in a heartbeat.

Oh and by the way going along with what 117 said the pads and rotors are made by EBC. My OEM setup with 60k miles on it stopped better and more consistently.

EBC