Problems with IAT Sensor - B16A
I have a B16A swapped into a Del Sol. The wiring harness is Frankensteined as I didn't have anything to start from. When all of the sensors are plugged in, I get no CEL's and the car runs/idles great. But as soon as it gets warmed up, I loose all power and it won't rev past 3-4000 rpm. It won't even drive up a small hill without dying. I've noticed I can unplug the IAT sensor and the car will run but it won't idle and it feels like the A/F ratio is all messed up (and I get like 12MPG), but at least it'll run at maybe 80% power and it doesn't bog down when it gets warm. Obviously when I unplug the IAT, I get a IAT CEL. I replaced the sensor and checked all of the wires that go to IAT, both the ground and signal wires have solid connections (less then 3OHMs) and have no shorts all the way to the ECU.
So at this point I'm totally stumped, does anyone have any ideas why plugging in the IAT would make my car go into ultra-low power mode? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
. Otherwise I guess I'll have to take it to a shop and shell out .
So at this point I'm totally stumped, does anyone have any ideas why plugging in the IAT would make my car go into ultra-low power mode? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
. Otherwise I guess I'll have to take it to a shop and shell out .
This is for a USDM IAT, but it should be the same...
Disconnect it, and using an ohmmeter, measure resistance across the sensor. Should be between 0.4 and 4.0 kohms. If it's not, replace it.
Other wise, turn the key on and measure the voltage between the positive terminal and body ground. Should be 5v. If not, start backtracing for a short.
If that's the procedure you used to check your IAT, then just ignore that.
Also check your O2 sensor.
Disconnect it, and using an ohmmeter, measure resistance across the sensor. Should be between 0.4 and 4.0 kohms. If it's not, replace it.
Other wise, turn the key on and measure the voltage between the positive terminal and body ground. Should be 5v. If not, start backtracing for a short.
If that's the procedure you used to check your IAT, then just ignore that.
Also check your O2 sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is for a USDM IAT, but it should be the same...
Disconnect it, and using an ohmmeter, measure resistance across the sensor. Should be between 0.4 and 4.0 kohms. If it's not, replace it.
Other wise, turn the key on and measure the voltage between the positive terminal and body ground. Should be 5v. If not, start backtracing for a short.
If that's the procedure you used to check your IAT, then just ignore that.
Also check your O2 sensor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the advice, I checked the resistance of the sensors and it's within spec. I haven't checked the +5v yet though so I'll try that. I didn't even think to check the O2 Sensor - that'll be next on my list.
thanks!
Disconnect it, and using an ohmmeter, measure resistance across the sensor. Should be between 0.4 and 4.0 kohms. If it's not, replace it.
Other wise, turn the key on and measure the voltage between the positive terminal and body ground. Should be 5v. If not, start backtracing for a short.
If that's the procedure you used to check your IAT, then just ignore that.
Also check your O2 sensor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the advice, I checked the resistance of the sensors and it's within spec. I haven't checked the +5v yet though so I'll try that. I didn't even think to check the O2 Sensor - that'll be next on my list.
thanks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WinstonSmith
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
6
Dec 15, 2012 04:53 PM




