ok i searched and searched.My car is running lean and takes awhile to start.on my air fuel guage all i got is 1 light lean..it barely registers.Im runnin a cel but when i jumped it out it blinks 4 times and repeates 4 blinks.I dont knwo what that means.I dont see anything about a code 4 ?
Can someone tell me what 4 blinks means on the CEL.Also the car has JDm itr swap with the jdm ecu and it cannont be scanned with a handheld scanner for some reason so the only way i can check codes is thru the ecu jumper and again ,all i get is 4 blinks.

 

This may help https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557. Code 4 is crank position sensor. But are they 4 short, 4 long, different lengths? Also do you have the right o2 sensor for your air fuel gauge?

 

Sounds more like you have a code 44.. Which could be a JDM *cough* code for fuel system.



Consider this a free bump without more information.

 

i thought it may be the crank position sensor so i replaced the distributor and it still runs the same code.just 4 blinks.If its code 44 ..wich is fuel system,what does that mean exactly,..the fuel pump is a walbro 255 thats a week old.This whole problem started when my friend decided to pull off a plug wire while the car was idling..It abruptly stalled out and know im having this problem.Prior to that the car was running mint.Its not making much sense how pullin off a wire can cuase this problem.the car is running so lean that it barely starts and withing literally seconds the header turns bright red from extreme heat.Im very stumped,.

 

no one knows anything.

 

does my motor have a crank sensor by the oil pump? its a jdm 96 type r.I dont see any wires down there

 

no one can help me.I checked my crank pully and i dont see any sensor or even any wires down there.My motor is a 96 b18c jdm. I keep throwing a code 4.I replaced the distributor and it still runs the same code.It makes the car run extremely lean and the header starts to glow within minutes ..Im extremely confused here.Any help would be apriciated

 

confused bump

 

i just checked my engine..its a 96 jdm type r.It definetly doesnt have that sensor on the crank gear .THeres no wires and no sensor down there.So im runnin a code 4,I changed the distributor.still the same code,.its causing the car to lean out so extreme the header is glowing.

 

Sorry, I just don't know anything about "JDM" engines. Hope you figure it out though.

 

yea.im totally confused.Im hearing that obd2 engines have a crank sensor on the crank as well as in the distributor,but thers definetly no sensor down by the oil pump.I replaced the distributor and im still gettin the code

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4doorekITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea.im totally confused.Im hearing that obd2 engines have a crank sensor on the crank as well as in the distributor,but thers definetly no sensor down by the oil pump.I replaced the distributor and im still gettin the code</TD></TR></TABLE>

the sensor is behind the timing cover. it is a crank fluctuation sensor i believe.

 

i looked back there..theres nothing at all.

 

i had one on my LS. i took it off because it was in the way and i didn't need it since i was OBD1.

 

which plug did your "friend" pull out

did he plug it back in?

 

lol,it really was a friend of mine.but anyways he yanked out the number 4 spark plug wire while the car was running to check for spark and the car just turned off.Now its running a code 4 .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4doorekITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol,it really was a friend of mine.but anyways he yanked out the number 4 spark plug wire while the car was running to check for spark and the car just turned off.Now its running a code 4 .</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not implying it was you, but a real friend wouldn't pull your spark plug wires out while you're car is running haha. i cant think of a reason why your car wouldn't be back to normal after he plugged it back in...

 

yea.im totally confused.it just keeps running a code 4.I put in a new distributor and im still gettin that code.I even tried the trick were you can jump the crank sensor out on the ecu.ANd it still runs the code.Can my ecu have blown out when he pulled the wires off?

 

You have to crank the sensor

 

huh?

 

When you pull sensors off I believe it will throw a code.

check your fuel filter maybe. If it's clogged don't you think that would lean it out a bit?

Make sure you put your walbro in right

Check if your injectors are plugged in. Your buddy might have pulled that off too.

Try resetting the ecu, if the code comes back then you'll no somethings really wrong.

I dunno thats just me maybe

 

thanks.already did all that though.still getting the code.even tried jumoing out the sensor at the ecu harness.still runs the same code

 

someone gotta know something about this

 

bumppp.....

 

Let me preface by saying that I know squat about JDM ITR engines (i.e. what sensors they have/don't have, what the ECU is like etc.).

Free or cheap stuff to try:
Do you still have an AF gauge hooked up? If you do - pull it - I've seen one instance where the gauge was messing with the O2 signal causing all kinds of havoc.

Check to make sure all the injectors are getting signal - get a noid light to verify.

Clean the screens in your injectors and give the injectors a bath in FI cleaner while they are out.

Check for a vacuum leak (usually this causes other symptoms, but hey, it can't hurt right?)

Moderate or free to try:

Check your timing - if you own a timing light this is free, if not, buy a moderately priced one.

Change the fuel filter.

Check fuel pressure (install a gauge or rent a tester at AZ or whatever your local parts people are).

Like I wrote, I don't know crap about about JDM stuff, but the ECU won't allow code scans? Do you have access to another (GSR, B16) USDM OBDII ECU that would at least allow your engine to fire up (please don't drive with an ECU that isn't for your engine) and pull codes from that. Heck, it doesn't even have to be a vtec B ECU - just ignore the vtec CELs and see what other codes it pulls.

Not-so-free stuff to try:

Buying a new dizzy seems like a drastic (pricey) step, if you're into spending money buy or have a shop hook up a wideband and see what your AF is really up to.

I dunno, just throwing stuff out there to see if any of it sticks.