frozen axle nut
There might be a way but it would be so much more a pain in the ***. Get a long braker bar. have the tiers on without caps so you can get to the nut put it on the ground put it in gear have some one hold the brake while another person jumps on the braker bar.
well the little advice i have on this is even if you dont have an impact gun its nice to have a set of impact sockets for this and a 4 foot breaker bar........ or find some one with a compressor and an impact gun.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More man power... also try using PB blaster or WD40 to loosen up the nut.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WD40 is junk for this. It is a lube not a thred penatrating oil like PB blaster.
WD40 is junk for this. It is a lube not a thred penatrating oil like PB blaster.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colby71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WD40 is junk for this. It is a lube not a thred penatrating oil like PB blaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
PB has def come thru moreso than WD, but whichever of the 2 is available to you, use it. Also, a torch may help the situation. Friend had a stuck axle once, and we used a torch to heat it up a little, and it broke free. Be careful around the brakelines tho.
WD40 is junk for this. It is a lube not a thred penatrating oil like PB blaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
PB has def come thru moreso than WD, but whichever of the 2 is available to you, use it. Also, a torch may help the situation. Friend had a stuck axle once, and we used a torch to heat it up a little, and it broke free. Be careful around the brakelines tho.
i had this same issue way back when so what i did was spray alot of pb blaster let ti sit then i hit it with the impact gun but clock wise. some times this helps break the seal then loosen it up... sounds dumb but it works
If you dont have a 4' breaker bar take a 1 or 2 foot one put it on and slide about three feet of steel piping around the breaker bar stand on it and bounce up and down. Also try heating the nut and spraying it with a penatrating oil as well it should come off eventually, I let mine soak in the oil 3 days spraying them once in the morning once at night and on the third day I was able to heat it up and break it loose using a 1' breaker bar.
thanks for the replies fellas. i guess pb blaster + heat + brute force is the way to go
my boy told me, worse case scenario, cut the boot on the axle behind the hub and rip out the axle (i do have new axles) anyone know of this method?
my boy told me, worse case scenario, cut the boot on the axle behind the hub and rip out the axle (i do have new axles) anyone know of this method?
Ripping the boot and pulling it out is'nt going to work without breaking the axle hub nut loose one way or another. It holds the axle onto the hub and can't be removed until the nut is so that isnt a great idea.
Spray some Zep45 on that SOB then hit it with the breaker bar. Ur in for an extra hour of work if you break it tho so good luck with that
I would do it the same way I do it at the junkyard. Just pull the lower balljoints on both sides and pull the axles out of the transmission, you should have enough room to slide the thing out. I've never had to remove the axle nuts to get the engine or trans out if I couldn't get the axle nuts to budge. I don't have access to air tools at the junkyard, otherwise I would use an impact gun to zip it off.
penetrating oil and heat are your friend with this kinda problem. like said before tighten it then loosen it. also hold tension on the breaker bar and hit the end with a hammer the vibrations tend to help things break loose. if all else fails. oxy. acetylene torch, blast that thing off.
You might also look into getting a .75 inch breaker bar and socket. I find that anytime I use .5 inch stuff on a frozen nut with a cheater, I always end up breaking something. Usually, I end up shearing the drive from the ratchet/breaker bar.
On the other hand, if you are pressed for time with a swap, the swap does not require different axles, and you don't want to mess with this right away, you can simply break the lower balljoint. When you do this, you should be able to move te steering kunckle away enough to be able to pull the axles from the transmission.
On the other hand, if you are pressed for time with a swap, the swap does not require different axles, and you don't want to mess with this right away, you can simply break the lower balljoint. When you do this, you should be able to move te steering kunckle away enough to be able to pull the axles from the transmission.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Soak with PB, let it sit for a minute, and then heat it up for about 30 seconds, and repeat this, with intermittent try's at taking the nut off. It should come off soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No no no, not intermittent. When you go to hit that nut, go at it until the damn thing comes off. Once you hit it with PB and heat it should be lubricated enough and heated up enough to come off. If you hit the bolt for a few seconds then stop, and hit it again, the metal is gonna heat then cool causing the metal to expand and contract and its just gonna be a bitch to get off.
If the OP is replacing the transmission hopefully he will do axles as well and new axles come with new axle nuts, so don't worry about destroying the nut.
No no no, not intermittent. When you go to hit that nut, go at it until the damn thing comes off. Once you hit it with PB and heat it should be lubricated enough and heated up enough to come off. If you hit the bolt for a few seconds then stop, and hit it again, the metal is gonna heat then cool causing the metal to expand and contract and its just gonna be a bitch to get off.
If the OP is replacing the transmission hopefully he will do axles as well and new axles come with new axle nuts, so don't worry about destroying the nut.


