Overall the PJ came out sweetass. a tiny bit more orange peel than i wanted and i got one run/sag. anyone have any tips to remove it? should i reshoot the panel? (sucks i had to f up a quarter...)

my plans are: to block wet sand 1000, 1500, 2000 and buff...
maybe try scraping it level (or close) with a razor and sand... anyone have any feedback?






Modified by welfarepc at 3:45 PM 1/4/2008

 

You can sand it out with the steps that you listed. I wouldn't recomend cutting it with the razorblade though.

 

its hard to fix single stage. i had the same prob. i ended up sanding and re shooting the whole door.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SneezinCD5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can sand it out with the steps that you listed. I wouldn't recomend cutting it with the razorblade though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but why?

 

Yikes, thats big one, haha

I would also avoid using a razor blade(personal preferance). The sandpaer you listed will be just fine...

Cut an inch or two off a wooden paint stir stick and you can wrap some sand paper around it. You want to use something hard (paint stick) so your only sanding the run. You want to try and avoid sanding anything but the sag at first until its pretty much flat.

 

fawk it im doing another coat... have a few dry spray's and i even missed a spot behind the antenna... lol...

 

in all honesty, i would just sand it with a DA and just respray it..... you'll end up saving time because to the looks of it, its not fixable........ you'll also be much happier having a freshly painted surface not having to worry about the drip.....

REEEEEEEE_DOOOOOOOOOO

-comes with the job though, when i first started, this **** happened all the time. practice makes perfect.

 

Pro Tip: If you catch the run while it is still wet(basically while you are spraying), you can lightly tap it with a paper towel to absorb most of the run. This will either fix the run completely, the paint will flow back smoothly. Or it will take so much of the run out that it will be very easy to wet sand to perfection.

 

Whatever you do dont do this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by driveahonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pro Tip: If you catch the run while it is still wet(basically while you are spraying), you can lightly tap it with a paper towel to absorb most of the run. This will either fix the run completely, the paint will flow back smoothly. Or it will take so much of the run out that it will be very easy to wet sand to perfection.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Good advice Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by driveahonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pro Tip: If you catch the run while it is still wet(basically while you are spraying), you can lightly tap it with a paper towel to absorb most of the run. This will either fix the run completely, the paint will flow back smoothly. Or it will take so much of the run out that it will be very easy to wet sand to perfection.</TD></TR></TABLE>

never heard of this, in all honesty i would never even try doin that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by driveahonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pro Tip: If you catch the run while it is still wet(basically while you are spraying), you can lightly tap it with a paper towel to absorb most of the run. This will either fix the run completely, the paint will flow back smoothly. Or it will take so much of the run out that it will be very easy to wet sand to perfection. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For single stage this could work for very small runs sometimes, if your lucky the paint will even/flat out and look perfectly fine when your done. But the amount of paint in the pics look like it will just make a mess.

I can see how many auto sprayers don't use this because with experience you'll either avoid laying the paint on to thick for it to run, know that the paint is to thin during test spray or would rather wait and sand it out after it dries for a buff or respray.

But in the end, its almost always easier to wait for it to dry then fix it after.

 

I personally wouldn't try the "Pro Tip" either. I've seen it done before, only with masking tape, but you gotta have a steady hand to pull it off without making it worse than it already is. In the end, it DID work nice, flowed out without even noticing.
But besides that, You probably COULD sand it out and polish it, probably take as much time as sanding the rest of the door and doing a respray though.
If you are going to try and polish it, i would take a razorblade, take some masking tape, and tape off the outer edges of the razorblade, and scrape the run down slowly. Worksa lot fast than sanding, and you wont's scratch the **** out of the surrounding area of the run until you get to a point where you can start using sand paper to blend out the run.
I personally would prefer using a coarser grit sandpaper initially to cut the run down, like 500-600.
So you don't scratch the **** out of the surrounding area, tape off the door around the run leaving about 1/2" from top and bottom.
If you use something like 1000, it'll take forever to actaully make the run disappear.
Think of it this way.. you have an excessive amount of material where the run is, therefore it will take a lot longer for you to burn through the paint, so you can use a coarser grit along the run without worrying too much, its when you finally start actually feathering the run out that you should lighten up on the grit of the paper.
Good luck.