OK, i have 2 new tires in the front (was mounted and balanced) along with the 97 LS mesh rims, when driving on small roads, it drives perfect, no steering wheel shaking and alignment is straight...But when i get on the freeway going like 75-80+mph, then the steering wheel starts to shake like the tires wrent balanced or something..... btw my passenger side axle cv boot is torn and all the grease is out... could that cause the steering wheel to shake??

thanks in advanced

-Regards Kevin

 

Did it start doing this after you had your tires replaced?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did it start doing this after you had your tires replaced?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, previous i had some 13 inch donuts in the front and it was worse, so i bought new tires for my LS mesh and put them on and it's a little bit better but still, it shakes...

 

have you checked all the mounts to make sure they are tight? what are your axles like? theres either something loose, out of balance, or out of round. look around for things that could be any of this.

 

you probably answered your own question. Happened to me when my axles were bad. Also check to see if everything is tightened correctly. Do you hear any clunking when you hit bumps? If you do, it might be a sign of bad wheel bearings. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked all the mounts to make sure they are tight? what are your axles like? theres either something loose, out of balance, or out of round. look around for things that could be any of this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh ****! my driver side mount is kinda torn, but if u try to rock the motor back and fourth it's pretty stiff.... my passenger side axle has a torn CV boot....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustOneOrTwoPosts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably answered your own question. Happened to me when my axles were bad. Also check to see if everything is tightened correctly. Do you hear any clunking when you hit bumps? If you do, it might be a sign of bad wheel bearings. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do hear clunking noise from comming to a stop and hitting like little bumps on the driver side tire, thought it was my axle but my axle seems fine!! How much does it cost to repalce a wheel bearing??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh ****! my driver side mount is kinda torn, but if u try to rock the motor back and front it's pretty stiff.... my passenger side axle has a torn CV boot....</TD></TR></TABLE>

well thers your problem. the shift boot will DEFINATELY make your steering wheel wobble and break if your going too fast... NOT SAFE! and you cant generate the torque needed to notice a torn mount like your motor can so get that fixed too. youll feel alot more solid with about $200 of work and labor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well thers your problem. the shift boot will DEFINATELY make your steering wheel wobble and break if your going too fast... NOT SAFE! and you cant generate the torque needed to notice a torn mount like your motor can so get that fixed too. youll feel alot more solid with about $200 of work and labor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok thanks dude...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I do hear clunking noise from comming to a stop and hitting like little bumps on the driver side tire, thought it was my axle but my axle seems fine!! How much does it cost to repalce a wheel bearing??</TD></TR></TABLE>

The wheel bearing part costs around 50-60 bucks each, but you will have to get it pressed out/in using a bottle jack or something similar. You can do it yourself too, but if you are takin it to the shop, ask the shop how mucht they charge as labor charges differ from place to place.

 

Just out of curiosity when was the last time you had an alignment?

 

not so sure when was the last time this car had a alignment job done to it, i only had the car since the summer... alignment is still good i think, it drives pretty striaght down the road....

 

A screwed alignment can and will cause a vibration at higher speeds I have the same problem in my hatch. Also check your tires for bumps and mushrooms and rims for any abnormalities these will also cause a wheel vibration. Improper toe on a wheel wether it be in or out will cause the wheel to shudder back and forth trying to keep itself straight causing the small vabrating jerking sense to the wheel. I would get your alignment checked but would not rule out any other cause for concern stated thus far in this thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A screwed alignment can and will cause a vibration at higher speeds I have the same problem in my hatch. Also check your tires for bumps and mushrooms and rims for any abnormalities these will also cause a wheel vibration. Improper toe on a wheel wether it be in or out will cause the wheel to shudder back and forth trying to keep itself straight causing the small vabrating jerking sense to the wheel. I would get your alignment checked but would not rule out any other cause for concern stated thus far in this thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so i should do an alignment first?

 

Since you have a rip cv boot, you should replace the axel. Then do the alignment, and tell us if that help.

 

just curious did you get your axle fixed yet?

when ever you replace 4 tires an alignment is always recommended. btw maybe Road Force the tires?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phyzJunkieCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you have a rip cv boot, you should replace the axel. Then do the alignment, and tell us if that help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes ur right, change the axle first!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just curious did you get your axle fixed yet?

when ever you replace 4 tires an alignment is always recommended. btw maybe Road Force the tires?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no not yet bro, maybe sometime next week...

 

I would do everything else first before doing the alignment. Usually when you take apart your suspension/steering components in any way, you would have to do an alignment again. So take care of that axle and check everything else, then alignment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustOneOrTwoPosts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would do everything else first before doing the alignment. Usually when you take apart your suspension/steering components in any way, you would have to do an alignment again. So take care of that axle and check everything else, then alignment. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not true, your not messing with the tie rods at all when you install a axle,shock,strut , upper control arm, lower control arm.

but def fix your axle first man

 

i've got the same problem and it turns out that the driver side axel had literally no grease at all and only too late to realise its causing the vibration, new wheels, perfect alignment, wheel balancing but still get the vibration cause of the axle.

I've regreased the inner cv boot but its only temp. Another tthing is my car vibrates only once the car has been driven a few miles and hardly vibrates when it's cold. Another sympton that the axle needs changing.

HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats not true, your not messing with the tie rods at all when you install a axle,shock,strut , upper control arm, lower control arm.

but def fix your axle first man </TD></TR></TABLE>

I made that statement based on experience and it makes sense to me.. I wonder if his alignment will change after he changes the axle. we will have to see Good luck man

 

Your alignment can change from replacing/repairing an axle but its highly unlikely. Although your statement is true it is advisable and wise to replace suspension/axles before going to fix an alignment issue. Tie rods affect toe not castor or camber.......

With that said it would be wise to get your axle checked to see if it can be repacked and sealed and operate properly, Or if you are going to have to replace it then, Perform wichever one is advised. If the problem persists have an alignment done if the problem still persists get your rims checked to make sure they arent bent anywhere and get your suspension parts checked to make sure they arent bent for one reason or another.

 

could be that your tires are off balance. where did you get them? you could probably take your car back in to get it looked at. get a free rebalance from dtc.

 

An unbalanced wheel is highly unlikely unless he threw off a weight, Which isnt very likely either because they lock in place on the lip itself. He stated that his wheels were balanced when the new tires were mounted and the probability that the computer made a miscalculation on weight distribution is about as likely as you being struck by lightning. The fact that he has a fubarred axle is the most likely culprit. Wheel being out of balance is the least probable issue at this current moment. Im not stating that this is not likely but the chances that it is the problem is extremely slim, And should not yet be taken into consideration.