i got a b18c5 block *stock*, b16 head street ported by portflow, with itr outer springs, portflow inner springs, mugen head gasket, itr intake mani, dc type r header, 67mm type r tb. i was looking at the buddy club spec 3+'s, but im getting confused with other people telling me to go with the spec 4's. the car is going to be a daily driver, planning to make power to about 8500-8800. already have the valve train... the car is like i said a daily driver but is also a strip/road car on the weekends.

any info would be greatly appreciated!!! i searched and read similar post but im not planning on going skunk2 because i heard that buddy clubs make better mid-range power than the skunks..

another thing, wut are ur views on the dtr header??

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!


Modified by socal allstar at 3:12 PM 1/3/2008

 

I have done the BC3's in a few cars and they are a VERY mild cam. i suggest something more for that motor Pro1's are nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have done the BC3's in a few cars and they are a VERY mild cam. i suggest something more for that motor Pro1's are nice</TD></TR></TABLE>they are more aggressive than the type r's tho... im just wondering if the 4's will be too much cam for a 10.6-1 comp motor.

 

need more opinions!!!

 

Skunk Stage 2's or BC IV's are good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk Stage 2's or BC IV's are good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

if its midrange youre looking for change your springs and go with pro1's

 

Whats up man! I got the Buddy club 3+ cams on my gsr some of the major mods i have are jdm type r pistons 11:6:1 comp. dc 4-1, 68 mm tb, BC valve train, comptech ice box, hondata s 100 my midrange feals great and top end is sick! my power ends at 8800 rpms but it feals real good and for your set up it should be just as good! get em and i hit 204 hp 148ft lbs witth these cams and its my daily driver hope this will help

 

BC3+'s can make good power.

On a friend of mine's ITR, we made 196/138 on a DynoJet 248c with a USDM comptech header (2.25"), Mugen headgasket, AEM CAI and tuned on CROME pro.

The whole "daily driver" thing is bogus. You can daily drive anything as long as it is tuned properly. I've never driven a Honda, including a 15:1 Methanol motor, that couldn't be driven on the street. It is all in the tune, not the setup. I can screw with a fuel/ignition map so bad that a stock D16 can run like poop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The whole "daily driver" thing is bogus. You can daily drive anything as long as it is tuned properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2 agreed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The whole "daily driver" thing is bogus. You can daily drive anything as long as it is tuned properly. I've never driven a Honda, including a 15:1 Methanol motor, that couldn't be driven on the street. It is all in the tune, not the setup. I can screw with a fuel/ignition map so bad that a stock D16 can run like poop.</TD></TR></TABLE>


youre right you can drive anything on a daily basis but its just not reasonable to have certain applications on the street.. in some situations its just not cost effective..


daily driven cars should be fairly comfortable and no hassles.. sure you can drive a high compression huge cam engine everyday but its not something anyone can deal with..

define your goals and intentions with the car and design upon that.


shawn

 

its eventually going to be a road race car.... but i would be content with a 200whp motor and build my suspension and braking around that. wut are u guy's opinion on the dtr race header on my setup?

 

Everybody wants 200 whp. The question is what are you doing to get there.

dtr make very good headers.

 

is that header too big for my setup?? i heard that they're made for 97x86 motors..??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr0honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daily driven cars should be fairly comfortable and no hassles.. sure you can drive a high compression huge cam engine everyday but its not something anyone can deal with..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I wasn't clear. A properly tuned car, whether it be on 87 octane, 91, 100 or straight ethanol, will drive without any "hassles". Regardless of the parts combination.

For example, my 12:1cr 85x87.2 B-series with Pro3's gets 31-34mpg, idles like stock, warms up like stock, and drives like stock. Actually, strike that last one, it drives better than stock. Of course, that doesn't just happen, I've spent a combined 20+ hours on my partial throttle maps and warmup.

Maybe I am missing your point. Please give me an example of a setup that drives **** poor, and has a fully tuned fuel and ignition map for both WOT and partial throttle. Hint, when I do a quick partial throttle tune, it takes 4-6 hours. So simply "touching" the maps, does not mean it is tuned.

How well/poor a car drives all boils down to the tune, not the setup. But there are exceptions for every situation. I think a 600whp FWD car is not practical for a DD, and it can be tuned to the T.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by socal allstar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that header too big for my setup?? i heard that they're made for 97x86 motors..?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Danny sells both production units, like the B-Unit and Street Sweeper, and can also make custom headers for any setup. There are 1.8L and 2.0L versions of the B-Unit header.

 

the 2.0L header is obviously too big for my setup... hopefully the one my friend has is for the 1.8L

 

Buddy Club Spec 3+ cams is what I want to get!! Mid-range and throttle response here I come.

 

The BC3+'s are a great cam. They are considered a "very Mild" cam by many people on here however I do not agree. They might be mild in terms of lift compared to the Pro1's however they make just as much power throughout the entire rpm band. The pro1's beat them out by like 3 ft-lbs of torque but considering how much larger the pro1's are, I'm not impressed.

Omniman even said it, BC3+'s are the best cams for tip in throttle response. If you want a very user friendly cam (Ie, no idling issues), with a nice mid range, awesome throttle response, and not a **** load of lift, I'd go BC3+'s.


Good luck with your decison.

 

I think your getting misinformed..
Any header will make power reguardless of how small or big, its whether or not its ideal for your setup.. i'll be running a hytech 2.0 liter header on my setup, although i'm still a 1.8 i'm quite sure i'll see huge increases compared to my sparks header thats cracked up.. Its like saying BIG cams wont make power..
Any cam will make power reguardless of size, and compression, its whats ideal, if you threw pro3's in a b16.. you'll make power..quite alot too.. but u wont be able to maximze the cam or make the most that u could then say out of a pro1 setup or some spec 3+'s.. get what i'm saying??

you never know what the future will hold anyway, if u get that 2.0liter header and then the year down the line ur stroking and boring.. **** you just saved urself 1400 bucks..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chillinit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The BC3+'s are a great cam. They are considered a "very Mild" cam by many people on here however I do not agree. They might be mild in terms of lift compared to the Pro1's however they make just as much power throughout the entire rpm band. The pro1's beat them out by like 3 ft-lbs of torque but considering how much larger the pro1's are, I'm not impressed.

Omniman even said it, BC3+'s are the best cams for tip in throttle response. If you want a very user friendly cam (Ie, no idling issues), with a nice mid range, awesome throttle response, and not a **** load of lift, I'd go BC3+'s.


Good luck with your decison. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not a jackass, but please provide some lift specs, as far as i knew.. these things were "barely" bigger then ITRs and were considered the stage 1 of Buddy club...
I suggest you head with some s2s2's, pro1's or some BC stage 2's.. these cams are pretty small.. Unless you plan on reving to the stock rev limit and doing just mild bolt ons, i'm sure this cam will be just fine.. but u wont make 200whp with it..

 

the reason i like the pro1's is because the power isnt all made after vtec crossover. the primary and vtec lobes are very close, giving you more low end, and then vtec just continues to pull instead of having a huge dip/spike.

i believe thats the difference between pro1's and bc3's, imho atleast. although i have not driven the bc cams yet.

edit: heres what i mean...pro1 dyno with itr pistons...probably about 11.5cr (not mine)





Modified by killerpenguin21 at 11:49 AM 1/4/2008

 

*taken from TI*
- STOCK 1997-1999 ITR ($500-580/pr, ITR intake cam $250-290)

INTAKE lift - 11.5 mm, duration 240 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.5mm, duration 235 @1mm


- STOCK CTR and 2000-2001 ITR (CTR intake cam $300-350)

INTAKE lift - 11.5 mm, duration 243 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.5mm, duration 235 @1mm


3. Buddy Club

- Spec 3 Plus ($549 US / pr)

INTAKE lift - 11.2 mm, duration 250 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.5mm, duration 245 @1mm


The exhaust is really the only cam bigger..by a small margin, and the LIFT itself is smaller on the bc3's then the itr lmfao.. i suggest go with some itrs or get a stage 2 cam..not a stage 1.

Not much bigger..

 

wrong.

BC3+ 11.4mm IN, 11.8mm Ex. can't recall the duration specs right now, but i thought itr's were 233 & 224? anyway, get that they aren't big enough" **** out of ur head. advertised specs only tell half of the story, as the last set of cams my machinist measured were actually larger than the numbers on the spec sheet. now what i find funny is u laughing at what u call a "small" cam. cuz, of late, ive seen many ITR cammed motors making as much or more power (whp) than some cam'd up motors. p1's included. don't think huge increases (advertised lift and duration) guarantee spectacular results. 95% of people on here overcam their motors breathing capabilities. its a fact. i mean all i see nowadays are s2p2'd 1.8's with stock heads making 200whp. when i remember, 6-7 years back when people used to dyno 190whp r specs, with an sms/hytech header, exhaust and tune, regularly. its a joke. BC3+'s aren't huge but they make proven power all day long, and they do hang with most cams from idle to 8K. and, if "only" 8k is a problem, BC4. problem solved

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I guess I wasn't clear. A properly tuned car, whether it be on 87 octane, 91, 100 or straight ethanol, will drive without any "hassles". Regardless of the parts combination.

For example, my 12:1cr 85x87.2 B-series with Pro3's gets 31-34mpg, idles like stock, warms up like stock, and drives like stock. Actually, strike that last one, it drives better than stock. Of course, that doesn't just happen, I've spent a combined 20+ hours on my partial throttle maps and warmup.

Maybe I am missing your point. Please give me an example of a setup that drives **** poor, and has a fully tuned fuel and ignition map for both WOT and partial throttle. Hint, when I do a quick partial throttle tune, it takes 4-6 hours. So simply "touching" the maps, does not mean it is tuned.

How well/poor a car drives all boils down to the tune, not the setup. But there are exceptions for every situation. I think a 600whp FWD car is not practical for a DD, and it can be tuned to the T.

Danny sells both production units, like the B-Unit and Street Sweeper, and can also make custom headers for any setup. There are 1.8L and 2.0L versions of the B-Unit header.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe that is very true but to the average inthusiast a smaller cam is better for daily driving cause tuning it is easyier/quicker. not everyone including myself can pay someone to tune there car for 20+ hours

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rollo Lawson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong.

BC3+ 11.4mm IN, 11.8mm Ex. can't recall the duration specs right now, but i thought itr's were 233 & 224? anyway, get that they aren't big enough" **** out of ur head. advertised specs only tell half of the story, as the last set of cams my machinist measured were actually larger than the numbers on the spec sheet. now what i find funny is u laughing at what u call a "small" cam. cuz, of late, ive seen many ITR cammed motors making as much or more power (whp) than some cam'd up motors. p1's included. don't think huge increases (advertised lift and duration) guarantee spectacular results. 95% of people on here overcam their motors breathing capabilities. its a fact. i mean all i see nowadays are s2p2'd 1.8's with stock heads making 200whp. when i remember, 6-7 years back when people used to dyno 190whp r specs, with an sms/hytech header, exhaust and tune, regularly. its a joke. BC3+'s aren't huge but they make proven power all day long, and they do hang with most cams from idle to 8K. and, if "only" 8k is a problem, BC4. problem solved</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am a big fan of ctr and itr cams. i have set laying around and when tax time comes im gonna get my head fully p&p'd. i wonder if that would be overkill on ''r'' cams. i would love to push the envelope with just stock cams and see how much power one can make with proven,selective boltons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rollo Lawson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong.

BC3+ 11.4mm IN, 11.8mm Ex. can't recall the duration specs right now, but i thought itr's were 233 & 224? anyway, get that they aren't big enough" **** out of ur head. advertised specs only tell half of the story, as the last set of cams my machinist measured were actually larger than the numbers on the spec sheet. now what i find funny is u laughing at what u call a "small" cam. cuz, of late, ive seen many ITR cammed motors making as much or more power (whp) than some cam'd up motors. p1's included. don't think huge increases (advertised lift and duration) guarantee spectacular results. 95% of people on here overcam their motors breathing capabilities. its a fact. i mean all i see nowadays are s2p2'd 1.8's with stock heads making 200whp. when i remember, 6-7 years back when people used to dyno 190whp r specs, with an sms/hytech header, exhaust and tune, regularly. its a joke. BC3+'s aren't huge but they make proven power all day long, and they do hang with most cams from idle to 8K. and, if "only" 8k is a problem, BC4. problem solved</TD></TR></TABLE>

prove it please , provide some tech info, at least i took my information from a reputable site..