Front LCA Bushings
So i've got a little issue with the suspension of my 93 hatch. It pulls to the left under hard accelerationa and then goes back when i let off. This leads me to believe the front LCA bushings are bad. My question to you guys is based on your experience with different bushings, which ones should i get to replace the stock ones? The car will be driven on the street now and then, but will be mainly used for drag racing.
TIA
TIA
y don't you have an alignment done to see y the car pulls? usually incorrect caster or toe will cause this issue. poly bushing are a harsh ride for street use.
When driving the car normally, it goes perfectly straight. Its only under hard acceleration that the car does it. Which is why i'm almost certain that the LCA bushings are bad. The upper and lower ball joints seem fine and intact, this is why I believe it to be the LCA bushings. Can you buy just bushings from the dealer to replace them?
The reason I didnt post this in suspension is b/c last time I posted a question there I barely got any responses. I figured since my car is turbocharged I could post here. HAHA. Just seems like I get a lot better responses in this forum.
The reason I didnt post this in suspension is b/c last time I posted a question there I barely got any responses. I figured since my car is turbocharged I could post here. HAHA. Just seems like I get a lot better responses in this forum.
if your caster is slightly off you will not notice it till breaking or in accel like you are. it balances out the vehicle's stability on bumps and what helps control wheel return after a turn. go get an alignment check at least, my work charges like $40 so you know what side to inspect or replace parts on.
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i run poly bushings in front, the ride isn't too bad but i also have tein coilovers which helps the ride from the dampening adjustment. im also full weight coupe with a turbo. so i have a lot of wieght to help cusion the bushings shock. gutted cars and poly bushings
if you have a good set of coilovers you can adjust the ride enough to drive with no issue or headache's. you can get oem's from the dealer.
if you have a good set of coilovers you can adjust the ride enough to drive with no issue or headache's. you can get oem's from the dealer.
I just priced it out from collegehillshonda.com for new bushings for the LCA for both sides it comes out to $224.66 + shipping. Are there aftermarket ones that are better for the price? Or just use stock?
So with this figured out, back to my original question. If I do end up needing to change them. What would be good bushings to get? I've heard lots of people say prothane and energy suspension are garbage. Seemed to have heard good stuff about ES bushings as well though.
Whats everyone running or reccomend?
Modified by 007EG at 3:08 PM 1/1/2008
Whats everyone running or reccomend?
Modified by 007EG at 3:08 PM 1/1/2008
i run prothanes in the front lca and energy's on front & rear sway bar bushings. no reason why both, just worked out that way. have had no issues with either.
energy suspension = ES, they are polyurethane just like Prothane, etc.
OEM and Mugen are rubber
I've run polyurethane, OEM, sphericals, Delrin, and Mugen at the track. The only real problem was with the ES RTA bushings binding under hard cornering.
Unless you are ready to spend the big $ for sphericals or Delrin, new OEM bushings are fine.
Currently I run sphericals on the front of my front LCA, and ES on the rear of the front LCA, Delrin on the front UCA, Polyurethane on the rear upper arm, and sphericals on the RTA and rear lower arms. That's a lot of work and $ though, for street and drag I'd just run rubber.
OEM and Mugen are rubber
I've run polyurethane, OEM, sphericals, Delrin, and Mugen at the track. The only real problem was with the ES RTA bushings binding under hard cornering.
Unless you are ready to spend the big $ for sphericals or Delrin, new OEM bushings are fine.
Currently I run sphericals on the front of my front LCA, and ES on the rear of the front LCA, Delrin on the front UCA, Polyurethane on the rear upper arm, and sphericals on the RTA and rear lower arms. That's a lot of work and $ though, for street and drag I'd just run rubber.
I'm really hoping the alignment is out of spec, and thats the reasoning behind the way the car is acting. But incase its not I just want to have my research done as far as what bushings to get.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 007EG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont follow..... "Tires will wear out stock bushings a lot faster" ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because you took that sentence fragment out of context. Try reading the whole sentence.
Because you took that sentence fragment out of context. Try reading the whole sentence.
FINALLY! someone who has the same problem i do.
I've gotten an allignment, no help.
I've changed my compensator arm bushings . . no help.
I've changed my outer tie-rod ends. no help
I've changed my struts. no help
i've changed my wheel bearing out. no help
Heaven help my if its an inner tie rod, gotta replace the whole rack from what i understand.
I have not changed my lower control arm bushings . . . im almost certain this is what it must be. if changing the LCA bushings don't help im gonna remove the rear motor mount insert i have.
Althought i had had a lower left torque mount loose and it did it worse then. So that leads me to beleive it might actually be the motor mount insert throwing off the distribution of torque my motor puts down throw the lower mounts. Its just a theory i have though.
Please e-mail me if you EVER find out what caused your problem i_am_four_all@yahoo.com
I've gotten an allignment, no help.
I've changed my compensator arm bushings . . no help.
I've changed my outer tie-rod ends. no help
I've changed my struts. no help
i've changed my wheel bearing out. no help
Heaven help my if its an inner tie rod, gotta replace the whole rack from what i understand.
I have not changed my lower control arm bushings . . . im almost certain this is what it must be. if changing the LCA bushings don't help im gonna remove the rear motor mount insert i have.
Althought i had had a lower left torque mount loose and it did it worse then. So that leads me to beleive it might actually be the motor mount insert throwing off the distribution of torque my motor puts down throw the lower mounts. Its just a theory i have though.
Please e-mail me if you EVER find out what caused your problem i_am_four_all@yahoo.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95vxtealhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FINALLY! someone who has the same problem i do.
Heaven help my if its an inner tie rod, gotta replace the whole rack from what i understand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't, they're just as easy to replace as the outers.
Heaven help my if its an inner tie rod, gotta replace the whole rack from what i understand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't, they're just as easy to replace as the outers.
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fastboy559
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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May 20, 2009 05:05 PM



, it's always nice to know what parts to change instead of guessing and wasting money. unless your balla
