Previous owner decided to run a super stiff rear sway and it ended up destroying the subframe on the driver side.
I was thinking maybe welding in a flat piece of steel and just running a Asr brace ontop of that to strengthen it completely.
I really dont kno what angle to go about this.
If any one has any insight or way around dropping gas tank, welding in new subframe. b/c this is my daily driver and that cant happen.
Thanks, Jeff

 

Looks like it failed because its rusted through. As its your daily driver, I'd have that fixed properly and take the bus the few days its being repaired on. Better safe than sorry, nothing like having the rear subframe let loose while driving to work.

 

as far as it being able to be rewelded how realistic is that?
Would it still be structurally sound? I could also Re drill some holes in the ASR brace to strengthen it further.

 

I would say it can definitely be welded/repaired safely, you just need to find someone skilled enough and willing to do it. A lot of shops shy away from welding key suspension areas for fear of repercussions if it were to fail in the future.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as it being able to be rewelded how realistic is that?
Would it still be structurally sound? I could also Re drill some holes in the ASR brace to strengthen it further. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well rewelded yes depending on how bad its rusted, you cant weld on rust. Might be looking at partial/full subframe renewal. How would holes strengthen a brace, the more you take material out, the more flimsy its going to get.

Also a bodyshop specializing in rust repairs or collision repairs should be able to pull it off, I'd show them the picture (Get it printed if needed) and ask them what to do and what to expect in cost.

 

well the picture makes it look worse than it truly is, The rust is just a surface issue.
By drilling holes I meant in other areas so I can bolt it up to the Subframe to avoid the missing area.
I contacted a few fabricator/welders and they are willing to take a shot at it.
If anyone else has any ideas as to what else could be done please let me know.
thanks, Jeff

 

i would get the subframe replaced, no use in trying to put a band-aid on the repair. there's too much missing to try and patch.

 

Not to mention the fact that having the rear subframe let loose is very dangerous to you and to anyone, I wouldnt want to have bandaid repair on my car.

I told you what ideas I had, have it repaired properly and dont run about asking for someone that will do a **** job that will let go or make your car drive like crap. Take it to a shop experienced in collision repairs, they'll fix it easily.

 

patch panel asappp!!!

 

clean it real good. grind it bare and cut a thick piece of metal to near the same shape that u need and weld away. .

 

Its a honda, how expensive can it possibly be to find another subframe?

 

Thanks guys, I will price a subframe replacement, Like I said I cant really afford downtime. so if its too expensive I will just get it rewelded.
but soon to be installing my full suspension setup which will require this to be fixed asap.

 

I want to know how a sway bar caused that..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to know how a sway bar caused that..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hard cornering causes a lot of stress on the mounting points due to the torsion and dislocation of the bar in its bushings. If the mounting surface isn't strong enough, the mounting hardware will rip it over time, eventually leading to a total detachment like what's pictured above.

A good way to keep this from happening is to run higher rear spring rate and a smaller rear sway bar. ASR-type braces help, but don't totally erase the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hard cornering causes a lot of stress on the mounting points due to the torsion and dislocation of the bar in its bushings. If the mounting surface isn't strong enough, the mounting hardware will rip it over time, eventually leading to a total detachment like what's pictured above.

A good way to keep this from happening is to run higher rear spring rate and a smaller rear sway bar. ASR-type braces help, but don't totally erase the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
Im going to be running some 450's in the rear with a brace after I get this all sorted out.

 

that's crazy. I guess it could be pretty easily reinforced though..

 

omitted comment

 

The Beaks and ASR braces are basicly bolt-on reinforcements, what you need to do is basicly rebuild it and 'plate' it. Back when pony cars were all the rage, they usually plated the rear end - welding extra steel on - to keep everything from twisting. I'd try to keep the existing metal, but the problem is that suspension parts need to flex some, and welds tend to harden the metal. So you'd have to rebuild it with extra metal, much more than you'd think you need.

I do recall seeing somewhere that you can buy that lower section, you could always sawzall one off a junkyard car. Regardless, any insurance/body place would consider that unsafe/totaled.

 

you kno your options

weld a thick peice of metal in there real good and worry about it

buy a junkyard one probaly 50 bucs tops and two hours of your time

buy a new one from honda jk

take it to a skill professional and pay as much as buying one new from honda i bet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicstoner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you kno your options

weld a thick peice of metal in there real good and worry about it

buy a junkyard one probaly 50 bucs tops and two hours of your time

buy a new one from honda jk

take it to a skill professional and pay as much as buying one new from honda i bet</TD></TR></TABLE>
word, Like I said im going to get it rewelded.
As for 2 hours in replacement time, errr the tank needs to be dropped on both cars its taken from and installed on.
Again thanks guys Ill have the repair guys install the brace as well as to make sure all is well down there.

 

Thats close to the fuel tank fill neck as well, I would be worried about that thing getting sparks on it from a mig welder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats close to the fuel tank fill neck as well, I would be worried about that thing getting sparks on it from a mig welder. </TD></TR></TABLE>
best be welding it then. along with my manifold eh? eh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
best be welding it then. along with my manifold eh? eh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course

 

Thanks everyone