b16 road/race engine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Build it according to the class rules.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
x2
one dark and stormy night, there once was a man named roger foo. he had a friend named steve rothenbuehler who many call the omniman. those 2 crazy cats decided to use a b16a in an eg for the speedvision challenge series. with enough headwork, some milling of the head, and a little out of the valvepockets of oem pistons, they were able to use a skunk2 stage3 cam in that little motor. it made 200hp and that was with a jdm itr header because back then, that was all that was available.
chapter2:
then, the only problem was that, the motor turned so many rpms for such a long time, that it used to melt the distributor rotors. this problem was solved when they discovered that the ITR rotors have a different part number because they have thicker plastic. they c ould get a whole 2 races from an ITR rotor. this motor ran an entire year with only the valve cover being pulled once for a cam change. thats it.
the finale:
roger foo earned rookie of the year honors and is still to this day the test driver for omnimans new products, most recently the lightweight front LCAs.
the end. hope you enjoyed and hope that helped.
the moral: proper clearances are everything.
cliff notes, get a lot of headwork, some blox hsl cams (same as s2s3) and a valvetrain. have fun.
edit: here are some pics of that very 1995 eg civic. feast your eyes.

chapter2:
then, the only problem was that, the motor turned so many rpms for such a long time, that it used to melt the distributor rotors. this problem was solved when they discovered that the ITR rotors have a different part number because they have thicker plastic. they c ould get a whole 2 races from an ITR rotor. this motor ran an entire year with only the valve cover being pulled once for a cam change. thats it.
the finale:
roger foo earned rookie of the year honors and is still to this day the test driver for omnimans new products, most recently the lightweight front LCAs.
the end. hope you enjoyed and hope that helped.
the moral: proper clearances are everything.
cliff notes, get a lot of headwork, some blox hsl cams (same as s2s3) and a valvetrain. have fun.
edit: here are some pics of that very 1995 eg civic. feast your eyes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tested Omni's front LCA's for the 96-00 as well as his revised CMC.
Roger, if you read this holla at me. Us celebs need to hang.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha steve came over to my house about a year ago and told me that over a hefenweisen.
Roger, if you read this holla at me. Us celebs need to hang.
</TD></TR></TABLE>hahaha steve came over to my house about a year ago and told me that over a hefenweisen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cliff notes, get a lot of headwork, some blox hsl cams (same as s2s3) and a valvetrain. have fun.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and they didnt pull the valve cover till race 7!
the valve pocket work is quite interesting (i just got omni's dvd for xmas) and he did pretty ,uch the same pocket work. it was really interesting.
i would actually suggest that dvd in this case!
cliff notes, get a lot of headwork, some blox hsl cams (same as s2s3) and a valvetrain. have fun.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and they didnt pull the valve cover till race 7!
the valve pocket work is quite interesting (i just got omni's dvd for xmas) and he did pretty ,uch the same pocket work. it was really interesting.
i would actually suggest that dvd in this case!
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if it's a race engine, run forged internals, ~14:1 static compression, blox hsl cams and appropriate valvetrain (since you get jobber-pricing on blox stuff), conservative tune on race gas, smsp header, and a ported head and performer-x IM.
if done correctly, there's no reason why it should be any less reliable than it is now. actually, you'll have so much more tq on tap to pull you through the corners that you may not have to rev the engine as high, not that it would hurt it.
if done correctly, there's no reason why it should be any less reliable than it is now. actually, you'll have so much more tq on tap to pull you through the corners that you may not have to rev the engine as high, not that it would hurt it.
why not get the blox hsl cams and valvetrain, and mill the head for more compression?
myself, i don't bother with small upgrades when much greater gains can be had for relatively little more money and work. if i'm entering a race/contest, i like to be as equipped as possible to win. just running is fun, but running better or winning makes it better, especially when it it's not much more $ or trouble.
myself, i don't bother with small upgrades when much greater gains can be had for relatively little more money and work. if i'm entering a race/contest, i like to be as equipped as possible to win. just running is fun, but running better or winning makes it better, especially when it it's not much more $ or trouble.
I wouldn't run an SMSP. Since Dave doesn't make a shelf header for the B16, you'd have to run one of his B18 headers and reduce your ground clearance. He'd would probably build a custom header for you, but with just small mods like you plan, it would be more cost effective to run a used Toda B16 header.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of course I am going to build to my class, and no I am not after a big build just thought maybe a valvetrain upgrade and then ecu tune for a little more power
just mild mods that are reliable, will probably go type-r cams and valve train and tune via hondata s300</TD></TR></TABLE>
This appears to be what you're seemingly after.
# Thompson Engineering MegaTube intake
# JG overbored 68-64 mm throttle body
# JDM ITR intake manifold
# Hondata sheilded intake manifold gasket
# JUN/Maxim 4-2-1 header
# off road 60 mm test pipe
# Z.SPEED prototype 60 mm N1 racing exhaust
# Z.SPEED cam gears (+2, 0)
# Z.SPEED titanium retainers
# Z.SPEED valve springs
# ITR lost motion assemblies
# JUN stage 3 cams, lashed @ .007" in. .008" ex.
# Chevron Supreme 10W40 oil
# MSD 6A ignition box
# MSD Blaster 3 external coil
# MSD external coil wire
# NGK R V-Power ZFR7F-11 copper plugs .055" gap
# JDM P30 ECU w/Mugen Group-A 66CC program
# Walbro high pressure 255 liter/hr fuel pump
# B&M adjustable FPR (50 psi no vacuum reference)
# Field SFC-VTEC (-12 -10 -12 -10 2 2 2 2 5500)
He recently put a DTR tri-Y header on it before the car met with an untimely end. He may have actually broken 190whp which is probably around 210-215bhp. Not too shabby for relatively mild mods on a head that is still unported and a stock JDM P30 bottom end.
just mild mods that are reliable, will probably go type-r cams and valve train and tune via hondata s300</TD></TR></TABLE>
This appears to be what you're seemingly after.
# Thompson Engineering MegaTube intake
# JG overbored 68-64 mm throttle body
# JDM ITR intake manifold
# Hondata sheilded intake manifold gasket
# JUN/Maxim 4-2-1 header
# off road 60 mm test pipe
# Z.SPEED prototype 60 mm N1 racing exhaust
# Z.SPEED cam gears (+2, 0)
# Z.SPEED titanium retainers
# Z.SPEED valve springs
# ITR lost motion assemblies
# JUN stage 3 cams, lashed @ .007" in. .008" ex.
# Chevron Supreme 10W40 oil
# MSD 6A ignition box
# MSD Blaster 3 external coil
# MSD external coil wire
# NGK R V-Power ZFR7F-11 copper plugs .055" gap
# JDM P30 ECU w/Mugen Group-A 66CC program
# Walbro high pressure 255 liter/hr fuel pump
# B&M adjustable FPR (50 psi no vacuum reference)
# Field SFC-VTEC (-12 -10 -12 -10 2 2 2 2 5500)
He recently put a DTR tri-Y header on it before the car met with an untimely end. He may have actually broken 190whp which is probably around 210-215bhp. Not too shabby for relatively mild mods on a head that is still unported and a stock JDM P30 bottom end.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my 0.02 cents.
ported intake manifold
custom/toda header
head work
s2s2 camshafts
full bottom end rebuild and forged pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>
i built one for a buddy that was exactly this and it ripped. in a 92cx.
ported intake manifold
custom/toda header
head work
s2s2 camshafts
full bottom end rebuild and forged pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>
i built one for a buddy that was exactly this and it ripped. in a 92cx.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i built one for a buddy that was exactly this and it ripped. in a 92cx. </TD></TR></TABLE>
182 whp on a mustang dyno.
The only thing bad thing about this motor is the lack of torque, 115 ft-lb.
i built one for a buddy that was exactly this and it ripped. in a 92cx. </TD></TR></TABLE>
182 whp on a mustang dyno.
The only thing bad thing about this motor is the lack of torque, 115 ft-lb.
cool thread
luckily for me I heard some of those war stories while the camera was rolling. great times, hope to shoot with steve again soon
good luck with your build and your next season
Mike
luckily for me I heard some of those war stories while the camera was rolling. great times, hope to shoot with steve again soon
good luck with your build and your next season
Mike
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only thing bad thing about this motor is the lack of torque, 115 ft-lb.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a bit of a bandaid...but that's why there's gearing options...
The only thing bad thing about this motor is the lack of torque, 115 ft-lb.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a bit of a bandaid...but that's why there's gearing options...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's a bit of a bandaid...but that's why there's gearing options...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeap but that is a very good ideal.
It's a bit of a bandaid...but that's why there's gearing options...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeap but that is a very good ideal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeSarr_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool thread
luckily for me I heard some of those war stories while the camera was rolling. great times, hope to shoot with steve again soon
good luck with your build and your next season
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
steve needs to come out of the woodwork. show us all he is still the man.
luckily for me I heard some of those war stories while the camera was rolling. great times, hope to shoot with steve again soon
good luck with your build and your next season
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
steve needs to come out of the woodwork. show us all he is still the man.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it's a race engine, run forged internals, ~14:1 static compression, blox hsl cams and appropriate valvetrain (since you get jobber-pricing on blox stuff), conservative tune on race gas, smsp header, and a ported head and performer-x IM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
kinda funny you mentioned that. what ive ben talking bout building next. selling my semi built ls bottom end. and get a b20. wiseco 14:1 pistons, got a set of eagle h-beams already. and use my ctr head with my blox hsl's.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
kinda funny you mentioned that. what ive ben talking bout building next. selling my semi built ls bottom end. and get a b20. wiseco 14:1 pistons, got a set of eagle h-beams already. and use my ctr head with my blox hsl's.
be careful with those stock b20 sleeves. some are better than others, and they all seem to be considerably less tolerant of pre-ignition than those in the other B blocks.
personally, i'd try to find a cheap/blown b18 block and resleeve it, or try to find one already sleeved that someone wants to sell for a reasonable price.
personally, i'd try to find a cheap/blown b18 block and resleeve it, or try to find one already sleeved that someone wants to sell for a reasonable price.
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