Hey All,

I've been having this problem for a couple of months now. When the cars cold it accelerates fine with no hesitation. But once warm the car bogs from 1K and then from 2-3K, it's like a loss of power. This is actually noticable in my recent dyno. I've replaced everything apart from the o2 sensor and the distributor ignitor / coil. So is this a sign of a bad o2 sensor?

Thanks

 

On a bunch od threads i read, bogging around those rpms were due to the dizzy ignitor. How your gas mileage?

 

somtimes its pretty good, but then sometimes its not quite good at all.

 

timing is also fine at 16 degrees

 

need help!

 

A bad O2 sensor can cause the engine to accelerate funny. If it's an intermintent problem it may go in and out of this "bog" as you drive it. Fine one minute, bogging the next. Will cause bad mpg and other issues.

 

sounds like it then - since it never bogs when cold - this due to the ECU running closed loop and not taking into account the o2 sensor readings but once it gets warm it runs open loop? After 3.2K its fine when warm.

 

bump

 

anyone else for bad o2? No CEL showing either.

 

lets see... some symptoms... if it's stuck on the lean positions it might make your car run rich. it will bog down low but run great with more load. if it was stuck on the rich position then your car will run fine idling, cruising untill high rpms where you need more gas. Older Honda O2s usually go bad without throwing a CEL because the computer is still seeing a voltage. Only proper way to check the O2s is to use an Oscilloscope and probe the O2s feed the car with some propane and watch the sine wave on the scope.

 

i've also thought that could it be the main relay dodging up? i've noticed a couple of times that sometimes the main relay doesn't prime the fuel pump and then the car not starting (when its warm). So could this affect when driving around?

 

so in theory if I disconnect the o2 sensor after a driving the till reaching optimum temp and if the car doesn't bog then the sensor is faulty, if it still bogs - then bad ignitor / fuel pump / fpr?

 

bump for an answer on the above ^^

 

Do you run a knock sensor? Could be faulty

 

i just recently changed my o2 sensor and i'm still getting the same symptoms you are

 

a faulty knock sensor would affect the engine performance even when cold though wouldn't it? I'll have a look to see if i'm running one but I doubt it's this. Anyone chime in on this?

 

disconnected o2 sensor but no difference, now i get an intermittent CEL #41 - primary o2 sensor heater! lol

 

Just to add more info - car starts without the CEL, but afer 20mins of driving or only 10mins with harder driving the CEL comes on, seems to turn off when i switch car off then turn back on again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohsin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just to add more info - car starts without the CEL, but afer 20mins of driving or only 10mins with harder driving the CEL comes on, seems to turn off when i switch car off then turn back on again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is the code when ^^ this happens? That seems even more like a faulty O2 sensor.

They can act really funny when they are working intermittently. My experience with them when they are faulty is that some will shoot a code a couple times a week, others every day and sometimes a mix of the two.

 

all i did was disconnect the o2 sensor, drive for 2mins, no change in the bogging (this means something else is causing the bogging also). Then when I connected it back up CEL #41 (no CEL before o2 disconnection) - primary o2 sensor heater. Then after numerous ECU resets and checking the plug CEL goes away but now comes after driving a little and comes on quicker if driven hard.

Round 2 driving:

I just went for a 25min drive with hard driving and no cel at all...

 

Hey everyone I've got a 99 Honda crv 180k only driven to work and school and noticed a few things with my crv,one the cel came on so I took to autozone and they said it was a miss fire in cylinders 2 and 4,took it to shop had valves adjusted,was still throwing a cel,had shop check code and it was a misfire on cylinder 4,now I've heard it's cause by bad valves but they all checked out good and it's not smoking or making any funny sounds at all,after that I noticed that old rotten egg smell,pulled the cat and you couldn't see through it,got new cat and installed runs WAY better but still runs a little funny,my question is if my valves are fine there's no leakage of any kind could bad o2 sensors cause running issue like a misfire,also noticed a few times a old gas smell,maybe my injectors are bad,not spraying right cause it runs fine when at higher rpms

 

Did you ever find or fix the issue?? Im having the same problem. I had a shop read the codes and only thing that popped up was catalytic converter. So I gutted it and reset the computer. I put a new distributor on it. And still same issue. With no CEL on at all.