90 CRX Si

The setup:

B18A block:
ls rods
arp rod bolts
arp head studs
PR3 pistons
new vtec water pump
new vtec oil
greddy timing belt
GE lsvtec kit

PR3 head:
stock cams
Skunk2 retainers, springs, and cam gears
port/polish

stock b16 intake mani
home made intake with blox sticker 20+ hp!
DC sports 1 piece 4-2-1...pos
rc 440's
225 lph pump
skunk2 catback,test pipe
NGK Iridium plugs
street tuned on crome for now

Omni-power sports
blox lca's
toe kit
front rear camber kit

The car went 14.4 with the stock ls so im pretty excited to get it out there this year...i also have a GE sleeved block with carilo rods wisco pistons 9:1 (pics will be up soon)that i want to get in there after i can get all the turbo stuff! onto the pics













it pulls pretty good i cant belive how much different the exhuast and everything sounds and it a whole new world when you hit vtec.


Modified by dwerpk at 12:23 PM 12/24/2007

 

Nice! Lsvtecs are nice.

Did you use a gsr girdle?? I have heard that without them, it isnt recommended to take them above 8200 on a regular basis.

 

on the GE sleeved block but i dont plan i revvin this one high n e way

 

try to find a set of gsr cams!there work good in that set-up. nice build i like the red mugen cover look better then the gunmetal look.i wonder how long that bottem end is going to last reving it to 8k?

 

Good deal! What kind of numbers are youy expecting??

 

i guess well see how long it will stay together haha...people say the weak point is the stock rod bolts but im only revving it to about 7800 and thats just am every once in awile thing so

 

well u said u got ARP rod bolt those are stonger then stock but i bet it runs good as **** now,wheres your vtec set at?

 

Hey whats up man? This is cool. You and I have a very similar build, Im in Ashtabula County just a short drive away Sometime I would like to meet up show off the crx's
My build consists of:

91 crx hf

B18A Block
new 81.25 P30 pistons
new B20 polished shotpeend rods
Polished crankshaft
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
ACL bearing kit
Lsvtec oil feedline kit
new type r oil pump
new type r water pump
Greddy oil block adapter
new oem timing belt

PR3 Head
all new seals and valve guides
Comp valve grind
GSR cams
BDL cam seal BRONZE
extended intake studs

AEBS satin intake manifold
Hondata intake gasket
AEM CAI
Fidanza flywheel
exedy racing clutch
y1 transmission
New Hasport mounts, shift linkage
Walbro fuel pump
KYB adjustable struts with H&R lowering springs
DC SPORTS Cat-back test pipe

I know theres more paint hood blah blah
We should meet up in the spring sometime




Modified by lsvtec hf at 7:58 PM 12/24/2007


Modified by lsvtec hf at 8:25 PM 12/24/2007

 

thats sweet man well def have to meet up...i have a ys1 trans i really dont know what it is cuase theres a couple possibilities and my vtec is set way to high its at 5200 and really can feel it turn on haha i have to get ahold of a chip burner to change it...

 

well after driving this thing i dont think i wanna go turbo..i been lookin into jun3's or blox's type C's just dont know what comp togo with...i was looking at the RS Machine type r 84mm pistons.that would put me a little bit under 12:1

 

i know this is a really stupid and open question but with that setup do you think that would put me at an honest 200 hp?

 

I think that some PCT's balanced on your rods, then a blueprinted/balanced crank, b16 head, cams of choice (valvetrain upgrade as well), and run it on e85.... (e85 has roughly 105 octane, and costs less than 91, most of the time...) That would have your compression fairly high, and the e85 would eliminate detonation....not to mention, it burns cooler, so it would help there too.

The only thing is, you will need to replace most of your fuel system. It would require a new pump, injectors, and all rubber within the system would need to be replaced... And you will need to get it tuned, as well...

 

that looks good!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwerpk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats sweet man well def have to meet up...i have a ys1 trans i really dont know what it is cuase theres a couple possibilities and my vtec is set way to high its at 5200 and really can feel it turn on haha i have to get ahold of a chip burner to change it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

must be a jdm ysl tranny if you went 14.4 with a stock ls[god i love ef's]. actually you want a real smooth vtec transition. when you here the vtak pop that mean your running out of low-end power and theres gonna be a dip in your dyno graph.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1528739

check this thread out theres some very proven parts in there

 

You are probly at 11.5-11.8 to 1 compression right now. Someone correct me if im wrong, b16 pistons and the lengthy ls rods gives you pretty high comp from the start? You most likely are at the stock 81mm bore still correct? If so lot more torqe can be had there. Good header, cams, bored over + great tuning will get you 200+hp. if its put together right
Why did you decide not to go turbo? Were you somewhat surprised how your current setup feels? Just wondering.

 

4g hatch -i know i have to lower my vtec down thats y i said that its way to high at 5200...lsvtec hf-i'm not to worried about this setup because i have that other block and everything ...the reason i decided to stay NA is because i can believe how this thing pulls with the crappy setup i have right now...
the other block is a GE sleeved b18a
84mm bores
stock ls crank
Carrillo rods
and i think i wanna go with 12.5:1 comp pistons
Jun3 cams
maby a rage header or somethin else good
i have a skunk2 intake mani also

 

i used a tranny calculator and if i were to have a ls tranny i would be at 72 mph in second at 8500 and if it was a 92-93 usdm gsr or jdm integra tranny i would be at 63 mph at 8500 and i was around 60 at 82-8300 so it has to be a real ys1 tranny!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tecMNSTR719 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice! Lsvtecs are nice.

Did you use a gsr girdle?? I have heard that without them, it isnt recommended to take them above 8200 on a regular basis.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahaha are you for real?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hahahaha are you for real? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i didnt want to be mean haha

 

Yea, Im serious...

I was always tol that using a GSR girdle when doing an LSvtec is a good idea.

From what I was told, an LS crank from the factory is not balanced as extensively as a GSR or B16 crank. Having a crank that is not balanced enough to spin to 8k+ all day, causes main cap distortion. (BOOM!) The usage of a GSR girdle, will recitfy the main cap flex, therefore, saving your bearings.

If I am mistaken by this, then I apologise... Thats just what I have been told. And if that is the case, thanks for bringing it to my attention! Does what Ive stated above not make sense, though??

 

it makes alot of sence to me i just see plenty of people without them buzzin 8k allday...but the motor that im building already has the girdle and when i pick what pistons i wanna run ill have the bottom end balanced.

 

Word man. What pistons are you leaning toward??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tecMNSTR719 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, Im serious...

I was always tol that using a GSR girdle when doing an LSvtec is a good idea.

From what I was told, an LS crank from the factory is not balanced as extensively as a GSR or B16 crank. Having a crank that is not balanced enough to spin to 8k+ all day, causes main cap distortion. (BOOM!) The usage of a GSR girdle, will recitfy the main cap flex, therefore, saving your bearings.

If I am mistaken by this, then I apologise... Thats just what I have been told. And if that is the case, thanks for bringing it to my attention! Does what Ive stated above not make sense, though??</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya your mistake. not everything u hear is true.

 

ok then, what part am I mistaken about??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tecMNSTR719 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok then, what part am I mistaken about??

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything you said...

ls cranks are balanced.. infact.. every honda crank is balanced.. you'd have rod knock on everything if you didn't.
Secondly, its not the "ls cranks" that are weak in ls/vtec's. Its the ls rod bolts.. the rod / stroke ratio doesn't really matter in this situation because its such a small differer from a gsr R/S.
There's plenty of stock ls/vtec's reving to around 8k or so.. most people dont even replace rod bolts and **** in the wind to 8.5k or so and have had no problems. Although i wouldn't recommend that.
a few things i would do is replace the ls water/oil pump with a gsr or type-r one..