15 x 10 and 15x9
Considering going to 15x9.5 or 15x10 on my EG to be able to run the new 275/35 Hoosier...supposed to be a noticeable increase in lateral grip with a nominal increase in rotational mass - slower accelleration but easier to maintain speed.
I am cutting and flairing my fenders though.
I am cutting and flairing my fenders though.
the gt3071r should help for me,,, i have the a6s 275/35/15 on rims now sitting in my kitchen, just not sure if someone came across problems yet,, i heard they eat up hubs
Running 15x10's with 275/35-15 Hoosiers on an EG requires removing fender liners and cutting all the way around the wheel opening including the bumper if you want them to actually be able to turn.
On an EF it'd be even tighter. good luck!
On an EF it'd be even tighter. good luck!
Yep, I've been planning to cut the fenders and attach flares to create more clearance for my 13x9's and 225/45-13's that I've been running, but with the availability of the wider tire I am interested in trying out the 15's. I'm concerned about backspacing though.
Anyone have any input on max backspacing with a 15" rim? I know the tire width plays into it too, but I figure I can get close with someone's experience with a narrower 15" rim.
TIA.
Anyone have any input on max backspacing with a 15" rim? I know the tire width plays into it too, but I figure I can get close with someone's experience with a narrower 15" rim.
TIA.
I just ordered a set of 15x10's for my car. I ordered mine with a 5.75" backspace. The front fenders are going to be cut. You don't need that much rear tire, so a narrower wheel/tire will work back there. I'll only be rolling my rear fenders.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16chaos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard they eat up hubs </TD></TR></TABLE>
While I haven't actually heard of any real problems yet, if you have an '88-91 hatchback or CRX with original front hubs then I would suggest replacing them with new OEM hubs and wheel bearings.
ITA and H4-prepped EFs (stock brakes required) have had issues with front hubs breaking on-track, making that part a wear item. I personally would be hesitant to run the Hoosier A6 275 or any non-DOT slick on original or very old hubs.
If allowed by rules, is it possible that you could alternately swap to a '92+ Civic hub setup? I'm not sure what geometry differences the knuckles have, if any.
While I haven't actually heard of any real problems yet, if you have an '88-91 hatchback or CRX with original front hubs then I would suggest replacing them with new OEM hubs and wheel bearings.
ITA and H4-prepped EFs (stock brakes required) have had issues with front hubs breaking on-track, making that part a wear item. I personally would be hesitant to run the Hoosier A6 275 or any non-DOT slick on original or very old hubs.
If allowed by rules, is it possible that you could alternately swap to a '92+ Civic hub setup? I'm not sure what geometry differences the knuckles have, if any.
We're running 15x10 Spinwerkes wheels with 5.5" backspacing on an EG. Wheels couldn't be made to clear GSR front brakes so we have to run 5mm spacers with them. They were right about $500 for a pair.
949racing.com is doing 15x9's for pretty cheap: http://www.949racing.com/index...ory=2
949racing.com is doing 15x9's for pretty cheap: http://www.949racing.com/index...ory=2
The Spinwerkes 15x10 (82 series?) were advertised at 15.5lbs but our custom set (4x100, 5.5" backspacing, 56.1 hub) was 16.6lbs on a digital scale. I don't see them listed anymore, but we got them from:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/
Here are a couple reasonably light 15x9.5s:
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JBrettHowell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are a couple reasonably light 15x9.5s:
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
What a fuggin waste. For the same money you can get custom built Keizer's that'll be much lighter.
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html
http://www.vividracing.com/cat....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
What a fuggin waste. For the same money you can get custom built Keizer's that'll be much lighter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What a fuggin waste. For the same money you can get custom built Keizer's that'll be much lighter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, but based on experiences others have had with 13" Keizers bending, I'd be very hesitant to run a taller and wider 15" Keizer. Maybe Kodiaks though...
What a fuggin waste. For the same money you can get custom built Keizer's that'll be much lighter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, but based on experiences others have had with 13" Keizers bending, I'd be very hesitant to run a taller and wider 15" Keizer. Maybe Kodiaks though...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JBrettHowell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True, but based on experiences others have had with 13" Keizers bending, I'd be very hesitant to run a taller and wider 15" Keizer. Maybe Kodiaks though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Internet hearsay by people who don't maintain race equipment properly. If you'd like, I can send you some pictures of a pair of Kodiaks that cracked at the spoke. Autocross only wheels used on an HS EF. The owner bought them to get a stiffer wheel, not necessarily a lighter wheel, so the wheels were overbuilt and weigh in at around 12lbs each. Nothing wrong with the wheel, just that wheels are a wear item that need to be properly maintained and routinely inspected and even then they'll wear out. The lighter you go, the more longevity you trade off. Fortunately, with a 3 piece spun wheel, you only have to come up with $85 to replace a rim half, instead of another $400 to replace the entire wheel.
Keizer's web site kind of sucks. Email Wade. It takes him a while to get back to you, but he will. I should have my Keizer's sometime towards the middle of January.
True, but based on experiences others have had with 13" Keizers bending, I'd be very hesitant to run a taller and wider 15" Keizer. Maybe Kodiaks though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Internet hearsay by people who don't maintain race equipment properly. If you'd like, I can send you some pictures of a pair of Kodiaks that cracked at the spoke. Autocross only wheels used on an HS EF. The owner bought them to get a stiffer wheel, not necessarily a lighter wheel, so the wheels were overbuilt and weigh in at around 12lbs each. Nothing wrong with the wheel, just that wheels are a wear item that need to be properly maintained and routinely inspected and even then they'll wear out. The lighter you go, the more longevity you trade off. Fortunately, with a 3 piece spun wheel, you only have to come up with $85 to replace a rim half, instead of another $400 to replace the entire wheel.
Keizer's web site kind of sucks. Email Wade. It takes him a while to get back to you, but he will. I should have my Keizer's sometime towards the middle of January.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Internet hearsay by people who don't maintain race equipment properly...</TD></TR></TABLE>
FWIW, I was a witness to a 6 mo. old Keizer folding on a CRX on an autocross course - not hearsay. I see your point regarding replacing just a rim half, but that assumes nothing else is tweeked when that rim half let's go.
Not trying to start a debate - just a clarification.
Internet hearsay by people who don't maintain race equipment properly...</TD></TR></TABLE>
FWIW, I was a witness to a 6 mo. old Keizer folding on a CRX on an autocross course - not hearsay. I see your point regarding replacing just a rim half, but that assumes nothing else is tweeked when that rim half let's go.
Not trying to start a debate - just a clarification.
Just be sure you don't blow a one time accurance out of proportion by inferring all wheels of a brand will suffer the same fate. Especially when you are talking about custom wheels built to the dimensions provided by the purchaser. Screw those dimension up trying to save some extra weight and you could easily end up with a wheel that is going to fail for reasons that have nothing to do with the guy who built it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by essex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$400 for each wheel! There has to be a better deal lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you find it, let me know. When you start talking about custom wheels that are absurdely wide something has to give. You can go cheap and heavy (Circle Racing steel wheels) or expensive and light (keizer, kodiak) or you can try to split the difference with something like the 6UL.
Oh, one other thing to keep in mind with the Kodiaks. Lead time has historically been high, so if you want wheels for April, you better order now and hope you'll get them in time. Like I said before, I ordered my wheels a little over a week ago. I should be getting them in the next 1-2 weeks. It would have been quicker, but the holiday's have slowed things down a bit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>When you find it, let me know. When you start talking about custom wheels that are absurdely wide something has to give. You can go cheap and heavy (Circle Racing steel wheels) or expensive and light (keizer, kodiak) or you can try to split the difference with something like the 6UL.
Oh, one other thing to keep in mind with the Kodiaks. Lead time has historically been high, so if you want wheels for April, you better order now and hope you'll get them in time. Like I said before, I ordered my wheels a little over a week ago. I should be getting them in the next 1-2 weeks. It would have been quicker, but the holiday's have slowed things down a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by essex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there anything affordable for the track, because I like to use the curbs lol
How much are around the kodiaks and keizers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For lapping days, I wouldn't bother with a 15x10 and a 275 hoosier. Some 15x8 Rota's or 6UL wheels and 225 R6's are MORE then adequate.
~$400/wheel for the keizers. I didn't price out the Kodiaks due to the past history of long lead time. I also had Rodney's information to work with on the keizers.
How much are around the kodiaks and keizers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For lapping days, I wouldn't bother with a 15x10 and a 275 hoosier. Some 15x8 Rota's or 6UL wheels and 225 R6's are MORE then adequate.
~$400/wheel for the keizers. I didn't price out the Kodiaks due to the past history of long lead time. I also had Rodney's information to work with on the keizers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For lapping days, I wouldn't bother with a 15x10 and a 275 hoosier. Some 15x8 Rota's or 6UL wheels and 225 R6's are MORE then adequate.
~$400/wheel for the keizers. I didn't price out the Kodiaks due to the past history of long lead time. I also had Rodney's information to work with on the keizers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm looking for 15x9 that will clear a fastbrakes kit too.
Do you think the 6UL will?
For lapping days, I wouldn't bother with a 15x10 and a 275 hoosier. Some 15x8 Rota's or 6UL wheels and 225 R6's are MORE then adequate.
~$400/wheel for the keizers. I didn't price out the Kodiaks due to the past history of long lead time. I also had Rodney's information to work with on the keizers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm looking for 15x9 that will clear a fastbrakes kit too.
Do you think the 6UL will?


