Hi,
ive tried searching but not problems seem to be the same as mine :-S

Basically my brother and i did a cam belt change a few days ago. all started up and drove fine. drove 200 miles on it since actually.

then the other day i noticed the idle drop to 500 rpm and when i attempted to pull of the car died. got the recovery service out and he said i had slipped a tooth on the timing belt. which after inspection it seemed i had. i have put the timing back to the correct setting. tryed to start it up. still nothing.

Checked the plugs, definatly got a spark.
checked the fuel pump, and fuel is definatly getting through.
All the valves are moving still,

but another thing i have noticed is that when i turn the ignition on the engine check light does not come on for its ususal 2 seconds. but the fuel pump still initialises.

if anyone can help or needs more info please let me know as im desperate!
Thanks
scott

 

are you sure putting the correct tension on your timing belt? maybe when you tried starting the engine again it slipped a tooth again.....just a thought.What are you working on anyway?

 

Hi,
thanks for the reply
it feels like the correct tension is on the timing belt but im not sure of any method to accuratly determine this.

im working on a d16z6 :-)

 

basically the same as changing any other belt.not too tight where the belt is stiff,just enough to flex when you press on it.It seems odd that the timing would jump a tooth right after a belt change. I know it's a pain but maybe you should double check your cam and crank postion again and your that tightening down that tensioner properly........may be stating the obvious but,have you reset your ecu and checked cap, rotor, wires ....all that good basic stuff?

 

Ok ill go double check, i havent checked the cap or rotor yet ill do that now. what wires are you refering to ?
thanks
scott

 

your spark plug wires. Good luck! and before you put it all back together do a test start,just make sure nothing is in the way...thats what I did cause I know there is a lot stuff to take off to gain access to the timing belt.

 

report back if you got it fixed good luck!

 

checked all of that stuff now (got replacement ones off a mates car to try) no luck. but also noticed that fuel vapor is coming out of the air filter :-s any ideas on why this could be now?

 

Bump :-)
just wanted to add that the fuel vapor is a weak smell but its definatly there.

 

anyone please :-)

 

The timing belt can easily skip if the proper tension is not applied. Also, was the tensioner tightened down. If you have spark and fuel, there should be no other reason as to why the car is not starting up. Seems like you have the timing belt off a bit so double check that. If all seems good there, make sure you have the proper sequence for the wires. Dont bother checking cap and rotor and anything else like that since youve already confirmed that you got spark. You menitoned that the ECU light no longer comes on for the usual 2 seconds. THis can happen if all grounds are not put back on the motor. Check the ground by the valve cover on drivers side, the transmission ground, and most importantly the ground that goes on the thermostat housing. Make sure they are all good. Also, main relay can cause for the light not to come on since it powers the ECU. Might want to check that also.

 

Hi,
thanks for the reply!
Timing is 100% correct, Car is at a mates house so i shall check tomorrow and report back with results.
:-)

 

You mentioned in your first post that the CEL no longer comes on... did you check all of your fuses? Underhood and underdash?

 

havent used a multimeter but they looked fine.

Also compression test was done and i havent got the acutal results as they kept changing but it did seem like there was a leak.

Any other ideas?

 

if you checked the compression and thinks it has a leak, im thinking you might of bent some valves, and with no cel i would check all of the fuses, and the ecu it self.

 

Do a leak down. The piston could have just barely kissed a valve causing it to bend slightly, which in turn is not allowing it to seal properly. Judging by the compression test results changing, I would go in this direction.

A leakdown will tell you which valve(s) are bent.

If you dont have a leakdown tester, search for a thread on how to build 1, I did a write up awhile ago, and I think a few others have as well.

Good luck


***edit*** Heres the link to the leakdown tester build I did. Inside there are pics and links to help.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1497875