Hey guys im welding .065 304 SS bends

This pics were at 23 AMP gas at 10cfm and tungstien is sticking out the tip 1mm.

Should i use less filler ?? It for a set of headers

 

what size filler?

 

1/16

 

I would probly be better with some mig wire SS

 

Bevel the tubing first of all, you will have a difficult time getting the proper penetration with an unpreped tube. I'd also say some of those beads are a tad to hot. Try turning up the gas to 15cfm, beveling the tubing and report back.

Good Luck

 

OK well i put the gas to 15 cfm and the welds are coming out less over headed. Im going to bevel all the joints tomorrow. Ill post some more pics. I put the amps to 23 and 15 cfm and the welds are coming out better. Im going to weld a piece of the same pipe tomorrow and cut it in half and see how my penitration is,

Thanks guys

 

I just welded up one of the guys from works downpipe that was 065 also, I had it at 28amps and 18 cfm of gas and it came out beautiful. I would also say if the unions between all the pipes are spot on use a thinner tungston and rod , I am building a set of headers now and I am using .20 tungston and .035 ss filler .
Just my 2 cents.

 

try 35-45 amps 18-22cfh and 1/16 filler


that pre-polished pipe(prob from ASTI) actually welds really nice, just dont run long (more than 1") beads or the heat gets really noticeable on the pipe

 

you dont need to bevel thin tubing. id use 1/16 tungsten and .040 rod.
thatll get you a nicer bead.
you also need to let the bead soak into the metal more. yours sits up a little high.
on some scrap, burn through on purpose so you can see what it takes, then you wont be scared to use heat and get full penetration.

plus your hand is super unsteady. get comfortable and support your wrist. thatll make the biggest difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need to bevel thin tubing. id use 1/16 tungsten and .040 rod.
thatll get you a nicer bead.you also need to let the bead soak into the metal more. yours sits up a little high.
on some scrap, burn through on purpose so you can see what it takes, then you wont be scared to use heat and get full penetration.

plus your hand is super unsteady. get comfortable and support your wrist. thatll make the biggest difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. First thing you should learn is to do some practice welds on scrap <U>before</U> you weld on the final piece. Once you're familiar with Tig you really don't need to unless you're playing around with gas coverage and A/C balance settings. Once you're good you should be able to just set the high Amp setting to something that is for sure enough and then use the pedal to modulate heat. On thin stuff you'll notice that it takes more heat at the start of the weld compared to the end once the piece is already hot.

 

Well new problem i think this is another reason i had probs. Im using first all 3/32" tungstien and my Cup has a spot on the side thats a bit melted and now all a sudden the arc goes right to it and i went to scrap it out and snap the cup broke.

 

so youll have to get a new cup.
you can use 3/32 tungsten with no problems, but it might just make it easier with 1/16th. you can put a longer taper on the bigger tungsten to get similar arc concentration as a smaller electrode.

 

it looks to me as though you may be moving too slow which could also be a problem if your amperage is too low. 1/16th tungsten reauires less heat then 3/32 does in the same application. Id use 1/16 tungsten with either an .040 or 1/16 rod. increase the heat if you not getting a sufficient puddle and then keep it moving! stopping in the middle of a weld will only concentrate the heat more to that exact area and and screw up the whole flow of the weld; now the metal is that much hotter therefore will be requiring less amperage; consistency with stainless is very important IMO. Once the weld consistently flows... its easy!

 

Although you don't have to bevel, it helps. Also clean the pipe better, I can see some area that should be deburred. I have used 1/16 tung in the past, and I could never get good color.







I use filler on everything

 

OK well im gonna have to wait i ordered the lincoin tip kit and i think it comes with 1/16". Now here is the kit.

http://www.mylincolnelectric.c...=2448

How fast are u guys moving? Cause i feel as im moving to fast maybe i got to go faster?

 

I fused a piece of 1.5" piping just with 25 amps and 10cfm and the welds came out nice and color was good and the strenght was good but with heat might break ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fused a piece of 1.5" piping just with 25 amps and 10cfm and the welds came out nice and color was good and the strenght was good but with heat might break ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

with heat and expansion it will def break. now if you telescope/step the tubing depending on the scenario, then fusing sometimes can work...

 

Also to add, if you cut a piece to inspect for penetration, its going to look like you got good penetration cause what ever you use to cut the piece, basically melts the pipe down. Hard to explain but its not a good way to go off penetration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK well im gonna have to wait i ordered the lincoin tip kit and i think it comes with 1/16". Now here is the kit.

http://www.mylincolnelectric.c...=2448

How fast are u guys moving? Cause i feel as im moving to fast maybe i got to go faster?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need to buy your parts off ebay because thats a ridiculous price. i shop with ebay store aglevtech and theyre cheap, fast, and its the same stuff.

 

Yeah I ordered this kit 4 months ago and looks like they charged my card for it and never called me. I paid 70cdn for it.

I would buy off ebay but it has to be done this week Im leaving for a millitary course for 6 months and i need to get this done LOL

 

I see a miller inferno! I just got one the other day. is it the digital elite? I havent had a chance to use mine yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing LLC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I see a miller inferno! I just got one the other day. is it the digital elite? I havent had a chance to use mine yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have the exact same helmet.love i!
Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing LLC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I see a miller inferno! I just got one the other day. is it the digital elite? I havent had a chance to use mine yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I love it.... to a point.

I had it and I think with in the first month the reaction time seemed slow, miller warrantied it, no questions asked. And now, around 2 year mark it seems likes the reaction is slow again. I cleaned my glass and it seemed to help, but it seems once again I'm getting zapped at the beganing.

And my is not digital

 

ive got the digital and the "x mode" is awsome! I do alot of welding outside and I dont have any issues with it clearing at all. Ive only had mine for a few days but the reaction time is realy fast...it may degrade as I use it but we'll see.

 

When you guys weld this ss piping how fast are you guys moving?