Pros and Cons of a B20 turbo setup?
I am thinking about swaping in a b20 turbo setup into my hatch and I just want to know what the pros and cons are and what is a good recommendation for a good setup that'll push out at least 300 whp
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From: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
Generally the only downfall of B20 blocks is the sleeves. They're weaker than any of the other B series blocks. Sometimes people get lucky with them, but other times, they crack at less than 300whp. A B20 block would not be my pick for a 350+whp stock sleeve setup...i'd snag an LS block instead
actually they are not thinner, but the design is what make them weaker since they are cast in one piece they are more prone to detonation than the other b series, like b18 and b16.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 612tunerh22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you would upgrade the sleeves and thats it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're going to resleeve, you may as well get any of the other B series blocks. There would be no point to get a B20. If you're only looking for 300-400whp, you could get an LS block and build a piston/rod combo for that power goal. Hell, some people hit 350whp on stock blocks...Its all a matter of what you want and how much you plan to spend..
If you're going to resleeve, you may as well get any of the other B series blocks. There would be no point to get a B20. If you're only looking for 300-400whp, you could get an LS block and build a piston/rod combo for that power goal. Hell, some people hit 350whp on stock blocks...Its all a matter of what you want and how much you plan to spend..
Advantage may just be the added displacement. But as others have mentioned, you should sleeve it. Might as well go other B series. Or do you already have the engine?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Generally the only downfall of B20 blocks is the sleeves. They're weaker than any of the other B series blocks. Sometimes people get lucky with them, but other times, they crack at less than 300whp. A B20 block would not be my pick for a 350+whp stock sleeve setup...i'd snag an LS block instead</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, but I still wouldn't trust a stock LS block to run reliably at 350 whp
I agree, but I still wouldn't trust a stock LS block to run reliably at 350 whp
^^...and by going w/ an LS, you're going to lose some displacement and therefore some spool time, but your power potential is a lot higher for a lot less money. You dont have to sleeve an LS until you're in the 500whp range.
Well the whole reason why I was going to go B20 turbo is because I was told it is the cheapest way to hit around 300whp.
So then I ask the question WHAT iS THE CHEAPEST WAY to hit 300whp safely?
I sold my B16a so right now I don't have an engine and I haven't bought a B20 yet but I have an LS tranny so I was going to go B20 with the LS tranny and turbo it.
So then I ask the question WHAT iS THE CHEAPEST WAY to hit 300whp safely?
I sold my B16a so right now I don't have an engine and I haven't bought a B20 yet but I have an LS tranny so I was going to go B20 with the LS tranny and turbo it.
a B16a2 can EASY hit 300whp in stock form, with the right turbo/setup.
example,
B16a2 100% stock
F-R stg1 kit 60trim t3t04 .63a/r
550cc injectors
10-11psi
clutchmaster st2-3
thermal 3" exhaust.
Hondata/neptune etc EMS
That will lift you over the 300mark.
The key is here as always, Get proper tuning
example,
B16a2 100% stock
F-R stg1 kit 60trim t3t04 .63a/r
550cc injectors
10-11psi
clutchmaster st2-3
thermal 3" exhaust.
Hondata/neptune etc EMS
That will lift you over the 300mark.
The key is here as always, Get proper tuning
If you're looking for a good, streetable setup that doesn't break the bank, i would suggest either an LS/VTEC or GSR. Even in stock form, you'll push them past 300whp with ease. Add a piston/rod build and you can hit 500whp.
pro's faster spool up, a lil more tq, the cons are this has been covered a million times, and a b16 + turbo will get you to your goal.
i have a b16 turbo, stock shortblock with LS pistons and im making 333whp on low boost and 91octane pump gas... good luck, dont get caught up in the hype, sometimes the simple builds are more than plenty...
i have a b16 turbo, stock shortblock with LS pistons and im making 333whp on low boost and 91octane pump gas... good luck, dont get caught up in the hype, sometimes the simple builds are more than plenty...
Well I have a B20 vtec and was running 12 psi all year, never had a prob, never burned oil, ran perfect. But the tune was perfect and I didnt do 5th gear pulls. My buddy has the same set up, and it seems good to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_orson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I have a B20 vtec and was running 12 psi all</TD></TR></TABLE>
The discussion at hand is about the kind of power a B20 is capable of sustaining. PSI does play a small role, but is not a determining factor. Having said that, your post without a turbo listed or the power it made, is rather worthless.
I've said it 1000 times by now, but PSI doesn't mean anything
The discussion at hand is about the kind of power a B20 is capable of sustaining. PSI does play a small role, but is not a determining factor. Having said that, your post without a turbo listed or the power it made, is rather worthless.
I've said it 1000 times by now, but PSI doesn't mean anything
Ok well I can get a JDM B20 motor for $500 and I already have the LS tranny so wouldn't buying a good turbo kit and maybe sleeving the block be good enough to hit 300whp? I have about $3000 for the whole project so wouldn't that be about the right amount after tuning it and everything.
i have a buddy that has an ls block and crank for sale for a good price. i will ask him how much if you want. the block is in really good shape, it has crosshatching on it still and there is no ridge on the cylinder walls.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEG6OneFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and no tune... I'm poor. just get injectors. 440s would do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
stop giving this kid ideas on how to blow up his engine. you definatly need to be tuned before you boost the engine or youll end up with a large paper weight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEG6OneFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and no tune... I'm poor. just get injectors. 440s would do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
stop giving this kid ideas on how to blow up his engine. you definatly need to be tuned before you boost the engine or youll end up with a large paper weight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEG6OneFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and no tune... I'm poor. just get injectors. 440s would do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's some of the worst advice i've heard in a while
That's some of the worst advice i've heard in a while
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEG6OneFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and no tune... I'm poor. just get injectors. 440s would do.</TD></TR></TABLE>




