H22a or B16a
i've got a 95 civic dx, i haven't done anything yet except for catback system, but a buddy of mine said that an h22 was too heavy for my two door. he's got a b16 in his 98 civic dx, from what he's telling me i'm leaning towards b16a...which one is better...and which one would be better for boost?
H22 is going to be faster than a B16. H22 is a little heavier unless you do a H2B then its about the same weight. B16 is going to be a safer engine to boost. H22 has a lot of torque. B16 lacks torque. My opinion is the H22 but just research and see what fits you more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2drEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've got a 95 civic dx, i haven't done anything yet except for catback system, but a buddy of mine said that an h22 was too heavy for my two door. he's got a b16 in his 98 civic dx, from what he's telling me i'm leaning towards b16a...which one is better...and which one would be better for boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
a b16a has low torque numbers while the h22 is a quick motor stock. an h22 is heavy, but they have the power to make up for it. there are alot of h22 civics around...so they cant be too heavy, and h22 has good hp and tq numbers while the b16 has only good hp numbers. so it depends on what you really want. an all-motor h22 or boosted b16. i wouldnt boost a h22 because the bottom end is weak and can only hold up to low psi. if you were to go boosted h22, you would need to rebuild the bottom end with sleeves and pistons just because you will be there to do them and you can put down a higher compression with good pistons. a b16 is a good motor to boost. the only way to make torque with a b16 is boost. any b-series motor is good to boost. if you are goin for power and not budget, get a gsr and boost it. you will much happier with the results of that setup. lol but its really up to what you want.
a b16a has low torque numbers while the h22 is a quick motor stock. an h22 is heavy, but they have the power to make up for it. there are alot of h22 civics around...so they cant be too heavy, and h22 has good hp and tq numbers while the b16 has only good hp numbers. so it depends on what you really want. an all-motor h22 or boosted b16. i wouldnt boost a h22 because the bottom end is weak and can only hold up to low psi. if you were to go boosted h22, you would need to rebuild the bottom end with sleeves and pistons just because you will be there to do them and you can put down a higher compression with good pistons. a b16 is a good motor to boost. the only way to make torque with a b16 is boost. any b-series motor is good to boost. if you are goin for power and not budget, get a gsr and boost it. you will much happier with the results of that setup. lol but its really up to what you want.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6hatchboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">h22 is a bit heavier, but too heavy? I would still go with b16 b/c i believe they're more reliable, i would stick to the b for boosting too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The H22 is about 20-30lbs heavier than a B series. Why isnt the H22 reliable? If anything, the H22 would be better for boost. The obd1 H22 comes with a closed deck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a b16a has low torque numbers while the h22 is a quick motor stock. an h22 is heavy, but they have the power to make up for it. there are alot of h22 civics around...so they cant be too heavy, and h22 has good hp and tq numbers while the b16 has only good hp numbers. so it depends on what you really want. an all-motor h22 or boosted b16. i wouldnt boost a h22 because the bottom end is weak and can only hold up to low psi. if you were to go boosted h22, you would need to rebuild the bottom end with sleeves and pistons just because you will be there to do them and you can put down a higher compression with good pistons. a b16 is a good motor to boost. the only way to make torque with a b16 is boost. any b-series motor is good to boost. if you are goin for power and not budget, get a gsr and boost it. you will much happier with the results of that setup. lol but its really up to what you want. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why is it between an all motor H22 and boosted B16A? Honda motors become a lot less reliable once you boost them. People dont realize how much less reliable they become. They get fooled into thinking "tuning is everything".
I'm not saying "dont turbo it". I'm just saying....BEWARE of the problems of turboing it. I refuse to consider turbo setups "reliable". If you dont mind fixing your **** all the time for it to be fast, then go turbo. If speed isn't your end all, and you want a nice, reliable car you can do anything with..go FACTORY ASSEMBLED NA. Do some bolt ons, and some small electronics, tuning, and be done with it. IMO, a slow car that works all the time is much better than a fast car that's always broken.
OP: what do you want the car to do? Drag race? autox? road race? daily driver?
The H22's advantages:
- Lots more power, and torque. There is no replacement for displacement.
- Decent potential after the swap
- FRM cylinder walls
- OBD1 versions come with a closed deck.
- Lots of tire spin
Disadvantages:
- Harder to swap in than the B16A
- Less aftermarket support than the B series.
- More hardware and expenses invovled in swapping
- H22 transmission choices suck. H2B kits are available to bolt B series transmissions on, however.
- Lots of tire spin
- You will most likely lose AC and PS unless you painstakingly put that stuff back on somehow.
- Takes up more room under the hood than the B series.
- You have to use polyurethane mounts. I hate polyurethane mounts
If you go H22, you will need additional cooling. You will want to replace the clutch, timing belt, and etc. when you have the motor out of the car before swapping. Once it's in, it's a tight fit.
You have to decide your priorities.
The H22 is about 20-30lbs heavier than a B series. Why isnt the H22 reliable? If anything, the H22 would be better for boost. The obd1 H22 comes with a closed deck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a b16a has low torque numbers while the h22 is a quick motor stock. an h22 is heavy, but they have the power to make up for it. there are alot of h22 civics around...so they cant be too heavy, and h22 has good hp and tq numbers while the b16 has only good hp numbers. so it depends on what you really want. an all-motor h22 or boosted b16. i wouldnt boost a h22 because the bottom end is weak and can only hold up to low psi. if you were to go boosted h22, you would need to rebuild the bottom end with sleeves and pistons just because you will be there to do them and you can put down a higher compression with good pistons. a b16 is a good motor to boost. the only way to make torque with a b16 is boost. any b-series motor is good to boost. if you are goin for power and not budget, get a gsr and boost it. you will much happier with the results of that setup. lol but its really up to what you want. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why is it between an all motor H22 and boosted B16A? Honda motors become a lot less reliable once you boost them. People dont realize how much less reliable they become. They get fooled into thinking "tuning is everything".
I'm not saying "dont turbo it". I'm just saying....BEWARE of the problems of turboing it. I refuse to consider turbo setups "reliable". If you dont mind fixing your **** all the time for it to be fast, then go turbo. If speed isn't your end all, and you want a nice, reliable car you can do anything with..go FACTORY ASSEMBLED NA. Do some bolt ons, and some small electronics, tuning, and be done with it. IMO, a slow car that works all the time is much better than a fast car that's always broken.
OP: what do you want the car to do? Drag race? autox? road race? daily driver?
The H22's advantages:
- Lots more power, and torque. There is no replacement for displacement.
- Decent potential after the swap
- FRM cylinder walls
- OBD1 versions come with a closed deck.
- Lots of tire spin
Disadvantages:
- Harder to swap in than the B16A
- Less aftermarket support than the B series.
- More hardware and expenses invovled in swapping
- H22 transmission choices suck. H2B kits are available to bolt B series transmissions on, however.
- Lots of tire spin
- You will most likely lose AC and PS unless you painstakingly put that stuff back on somehow.
- Takes up more room under the hood than the B series.
- You have to use polyurethane mounts. I hate polyurethane mounts
If you go H22, you will need additional cooling. You will want to replace the clutch, timing belt, and etc. when you have the motor out of the car before swapping. Once it's in, it's a tight fit.
You have to decide your priorities.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The H22 is about 20-30lbs heavier than a B series. Why isnt the H22 reliable? If anything, the H22 would be better for boost. The obd1 H22 comes with a closed deck.
Why is it between an all motor H22 and boosted B16A? Honda motors become a lot less reliable once you boost them. People dont realize how much less reliable they become. They get fooled into thinking "tuning is everything".
I'm not saying "dont turbo it". I'm just saying....BEWARE of the problems of turboing it. I refuse to consider turbo setups "reliable". If you dont mind fixing your **** all the time for it to be fast, then go turbo. If speed isn't your end all, and you want a nice, reliable car you can do anything with..go FACTORY ASSEMBLED NA. Do some bolt ons, and some small electronics, tuning, and be done with it. IMO, a slow car that works all the time is much better than a fast car that's always broken.
OP: what do you want the car to do? Drag race? autox? road race? daily driver?
The H22's advantages:
- Lots more power, and torque. There is no replacement for displacement.
- Decent potential after the swap
- FRM cylinder walls
- OBD1 versions come with a closed deck.
- Lots of tire spin
Disadvantages:
- Harder to swap in than the B16A
- Less aftermarket support than the B series.
- More hardware and expenses invovled in swapping
- H22 transmission choices suck. H2B kits are available to bolt B series transmissions on, however.
- Lots of tire spin
- You will most likely lose AC and PS unless you painstakingly put that stuff back on somehow.
- Takes up more room under the hood than the B series.
- You have to use polyurethane mounts. I hate polyurethane mounts
If you go H22, you will need additional cooling. You will want to replace the clutch, timing belt, and etc. when you have the motor out of the car before swapping. Once it's in, it's a tight fit.
You have to decide your priorities.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i meant if he wanted to boost, go with the b16. i heard that the bottom end on the h22's is shitty. maybe that was the obd2 versions. idk but b's are more popular to boost...its mostly ls motors or gsrs. if i had the choice i would go gsr and turbo it.
The H22 is about 20-30lbs heavier than a B series. Why isnt the H22 reliable? If anything, the H22 would be better for boost. The obd1 H22 comes with a closed deck.
Why is it between an all motor H22 and boosted B16A? Honda motors become a lot less reliable once you boost them. People dont realize how much less reliable they become. They get fooled into thinking "tuning is everything".
I'm not saying "dont turbo it". I'm just saying....BEWARE of the problems of turboing it. I refuse to consider turbo setups "reliable". If you dont mind fixing your **** all the time for it to be fast, then go turbo. If speed isn't your end all, and you want a nice, reliable car you can do anything with..go FACTORY ASSEMBLED NA. Do some bolt ons, and some small electronics, tuning, and be done with it. IMO, a slow car that works all the time is much better than a fast car that's always broken.
OP: what do you want the car to do? Drag race? autox? road race? daily driver?
The H22's advantages:
- Lots more power, and torque. There is no replacement for displacement.
- Decent potential after the swap
- FRM cylinder walls
- OBD1 versions come with a closed deck.
- Lots of tire spin
Disadvantages:
- Harder to swap in than the B16A
- Less aftermarket support than the B series.
- More hardware and expenses invovled in swapping
- H22 transmission choices suck. H2B kits are available to bolt B series transmissions on, however.
- Lots of tire spin
- You will most likely lose AC and PS unless you painstakingly put that stuff back on somehow.
- Takes up more room under the hood than the B series.
- You have to use polyurethane mounts. I hate polyurethane mounts
If you go H22, you will need additional cooling. You will want to replace the clutch, timing belt, and etc. when you have the motor out of the car before swapping. Once it's in, it's a tight fit.
You have to decide your priorities.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i meant if he wanted to boost, go with the b16. i heard that the bottom end on the h22's is shitty. maybe that was the obd2 versions. idk but b's are more popular to boost...its mostly ls motors or gsrs. if i had the choice i would go gsr and turbo it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i heard that the bottom end on the h22's is shitty. maybe that was the obd2 versions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're going to get mixed reviews from h22 haters and people who don't know a whole lot about the engine to begin with. I'm no expert, so I'm not much one to say.
Highest hp on stock h/f blocks:
F22:
1. Teamlegacy F22a1 402whp 325 tq HX35 112 octane
2. twkdCD595 f22b1 335 whp 279 ft. lbs
3. bigdaddyvtec F22b1 10 PSI- 305 WHP and 307 tq.
H series:
1. This One (Stoopid tuned) 536whp bone stock H22A
2. This One 442whp bone stock H22A
3. Tyler H H22A- 411.3 hp, 330.2 ft-lb (11.076 @ 126.57 mph)
4. trickeng 404wHP completely stock internal H22A
5. Under_Oath 364 whp 322 tq, 92 octane
6. 404wHPunder_OATH 363 whp 278 wtq
7. Garrett 361 whp, 299 lbs@11psi
8. SpeedingHatch 354whp 303ft/lbs Lasted 2.5 months ( )
9. x-1 H22 Mased at 344whp
10. C61lude's made 328.2hp on 10psi, onefab mani sc61
The h22 is a great candidate for boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The H22 is about 20-30lbs heavier than a B series. Why isnt the H22 reliable? If anything, the H22 would be better for boost. The obd1 H22 comes with a closed deck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2, and nice post B-serious
Throwing it down lately.
You're going to get mixed reviews from h22 haters and people who don't know a whole lot about the engine to begin with. I'm no expert, so I'm not much one to say.
Highest hp on stock h/f blocks:
F22:
1. Teamlegacy F22a1 402whp 325 tq HX35 112 octane
2. twkdCD595 f22b1 335 whp 279 ft. lbs
3. bigdaddyvtec F22b1 10 PSI- 305 WHP and 307 tq.
H series:
1. This One (Stoopid tuned) 536whp bone stock H22A
2. This One 442whp bone stock H22A
3. Tyler H H22A- 411.3 hp, 330.2 ft-lb (11.076 @ 126.57 mph)
4. trickeng 404wHP completely stock internal H22A
5. Under_Oath 364 whp 322 tq, 92 octane
6. 404wHPunder_OATH 363 whp 278 wtq
7. Garrett 361 whp, 299 lbs@11psi
8. SpeedingHatch 354whp 303ft/lbs Lasted 2.5 months ( )
9. x-1 H22 Mased at 344whp
10. C61lude's made 328.2hp on 10psi, onefab mani sc61
The h22 is a great candidate for boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The H22 is about 20-30lbs heavier than a B series. Why isnt the H22 reliable? If anything, the H22 would be better for boost. The obd1 H22 comes with a closed deck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2, and nice post B-serious
Throwing it down lately.
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